Flow

I'm at about 850 or so. I might try backing it down a hair more. So far I've heard GM top engine clean and MMO. Anybody try Seafoam? Never used any products to clean the top end out before. What's the procedure? Dump the stuff down the carb and burn it off?

Any other weber users experience dieseling on shut down? Mine will diesel about 25% of the time when I turn the key off. 2 or 3 more combustions before it rattles to a stop. Makes no difference if I let it idle for a few minutes before either. I've leaned out the mix as much as dare but that doesn't seem to make a difference except I'm gettting a little better mileage. Is there something I'm missing? I'm running the stock fuel pump with no regulator. EA-82 by the way. Thanks.

What's the best stuff to use to reattach the black plastic body trim on my '86 wagon? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies, fellas. I called the owner tonite and asked what he might take for it. He told me there was nothing wrong with the car and he wanted 1200$ firm. I thanked him for his time.... It sounds like I would almost need to get it for free with all the time and money I would have to put in it. I'll happily stick to my dime-a-dozen EA-82 Wagon.

Stopped and looked at a XT-6 today. It was an '88, 5- spd Fulltime AWD w/ difflock. Didn't have an LSD. The body was straight with only a couple 6" scratches on both fenders. Interior was dirty but in fairly good shape. Owner's wife said that the power steering didn't work and they disconnected the cruise control because it was making the engine "spaz out". Looked to be about 2 quarts low on oil and in need of a serpentine belt. While underneath, looking for a LSD I noticed that the rear exhaust pipes had rusted out and started a basketball sized spot of cancer in the trunk. What's this thing worth and how expensive are XT-6's to maintain? Thanks.

I think you want delta cams out here in Tacoma, Wa. As for your next mod... I didn't see a hula dancer on the dash.

It comes up to just above the zero. If it had the same amount a movement from the zero that would be about right according to the mech. guage i put in. In pics I've seen all needles lay horizontal when the engine is off, except for fuel. Would a bad sending unit make it go south?

Is there anyway to realign the needle on the oil pressure guage? I've never had a cluster out to look at the back. It seems to work fine. IF it were level with the zero then it would match my mechanical guage when operating. Is this a quick fix or am I looking at a new cluster?

It hasn't been a problem so far, the 4 channel amp isn't pushing a whole lot with the gains at mid level. I'm going to put in some small cpu fans to circulate the air but I think it will be more crucial for the bass amp.

Thanks, the switch is the same type as the rear wiper switch on any ea-82. I basically cut the hole to be a friction fit. It pops in and out from the front. I think I'm gonna use it for fog lights. Someone on the board had the idea to wire driving lights up to the 4WD button on the shift knob of a singlerange tranny. On the Fly driving lights would be cool. If I can find a knob in blue... Xt, Thanks but I was making up new cusswords with this install. I smoked the headlight switch trying to tie the guage lights in to the dimmer. Got that straight, only to have to chase a ticking noise that was getting radiated into my rca cables. Of course that was after I had put the whole interior back together. Word of advice: Take your time and be sure to test the stereo with the engine on before buttoning everything up. I got in a hurry and paid the price.

Finally got everything the way I like it, and I only had to tear everything apart twice. The Backing for the guages and switch is a rear cubby door I got from the J/Y, the one you can see in the bottom pic. Switch runs a relay that will eventually power driving lights. Need to upgrade the alt first. I got plans for tucking a bass amp in the other side as soon as I find one suitable, all the wiring is ran. Also need to do something for the heat the amps generate. Thinking about PC fans...

Cool I've been looking for a copy of the last book on the electrical. If you could hook me up I would be more than happy to pay the kinkos fee and shipping. I promise I won't bid.

1987 FSM lists ouput current as: 12Volts - 60Amps 1,250RPM - 18Amps + 2,500RPM - 49Amps + 5,000RPM - 58Amps + Regulated voltage: 14.1 - 14.8 @ 68 degress F.

Turns out the harness is for the rear gate lock. I bought the switch, rear gate wiring harness and lock motor for 10$ at the J/Y. Got it all fished thru and in today with only minor damage to my headliner:banghead: . Works great and the "R. Gate" light on the dash even works. I even took the time to fix my unsprung cargo cover too. My GL is looking more like a GL-10 every day.

www.radiatorexpress.com www.radiator.com www.radiatorbarn.com are few places to check out. You should be able to find a 2 core that will fit. I thinks some of the ea-81 guys were getting radiators for a ea-82 and modifying them to fit. You can read about it here-- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5961&highlight=radiator+buy I used a second stock fan because it was free.

More info... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10313

Ok, so I got the dash torn apart on my '86 GL wagon, replacing the headlight switch. While I'm poking around in there I notice an unused harness right behind the switch knockout on the left side of the steering coulumn on the dash. I've seen a rear gate switch in that spot but I can't find the harness in the rear hatch for the lock mechanism. Is this the setup for factory fog/driving lights? What do the forward harnesses for the lights look like? Typical round white connectors?

Hey Snowman, I prefer to run the return line. Makes sense to me to give the fuel somewhere to go. I've seen alot of muscle cars that run no return. If this is because of the huge amounts of fuel they use or the mechanics of the particular pump they have, I can't tell you. Anybody know?

Check this out: Interesting reading can be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10307&highlight=rallyjusty

No dashlights in my '86 GL Wagon 4X4. Checked all the fuses for continuity with the fluke. All good. Does the headlight switch commonly go bad or is there something else I should be looking for? Don't want to tear the dash apart if I don't have to... Thanks

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

Some more infoHERE

It does sound like your webber wants more juice. I had a fram fuel filter come apart on my old ford truck that partially blocked the line. It idled fine but would cough and sputter as soon as you touched the pedal. Have you ever pulled your fuel line and eyeballed what kind of volume your getting? Are you running a return hose? Sorry I'm not much help. It's weird how some webbers do fine with a stock pump and others don't.

For the carb'd '86 the FSM lists: Pressure 2.6-3.3 psi Volume 10 gallons per hour. I'm running a stock pump with my weber and it seems to do great with just a couple exceptions. Pull a lefthanded U-turn and it will die and sometimes it will diesel on shutdown. I don't think the dieseling is a result of too little fuel tho. Too much if anything. What symtoms is your old pump giving you?

So who's bringing Hombrew? I might have to brew up some Seven Sisters Stout or maybe Pleiades Porter. Either way I'm in for 5 gallons.