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mattocs

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Everything posted by mattocs

  1. 1996: Manual: 22 mpg / 29 mpg Automatic: 23 mpg / 32 mpg 1999: Manual: 22 mpg / 29 mpg Automatic: : 22 mpg / 29 mpg (1997 wasn't listed on Edmunds.com...so I went with the 1999) Those are for Legacy sedans.
  2. You have a larger engine than me (2.5l...I have a 2.2 in my Outback) and i've had mine to almost 110. Anything over 100 gets kinda scary in it... It really depends on when it will redline and how flat of the surface. I think 115 - 120 might be the realistic top speed that you could get to without miles and miles of flat road. It might take a while to get to that speed, though. Take a look here: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25754 Someone might have have listed a similar vehicle.
  3. Mine stopped when I let it redline at 6,000 RPMs for like 15 seconds...might want to try that.
  4. 1) You need to pull the dash apart. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&page=1&pp=10&highlight=Climate+Control+Backlights has some info on doing it. 2) I've learned to deal with it. Maybe you could glue it in place? I dunno... 3) OBD2 scanner will do it. Auto Zone pulls them for free...so this might save you money, unless you are always getting a code. 4) It comes from the one the front does.
  5. 1990: 130HP / 137 ft-lbs. torque. 1995: 135HP / 140 ft-lbs. torque. 1997: 135HP / 145 ft-lbs. torque. 1999: 142HP / 149 ft-lbs. torque Edmunds.com has the specs for each year listed. Those where the years and the changes.
  6. Good to know there are kind dealers out there who are not just in it to make money.
  7. That is the selling ponit of the car. If I didn't want a turbo (or even know it had one), i'd spend like $8,000 less and get the RS 2.5.
  8. The RS 2.5 is naturally-aspirated. The WRX is turbocharged and the STi is turbocharged...but a bigger engine and bigger turbo. You need premium gas because your engine will knock. Higher octane = higher compression ratio. I don't know if any damnage will be caused...but you're engine will knock and you might have a decrese in performance.
  9. Did you buy it in the US? If so, then it is a turbo. (Do they even make them in other markets without the turbo?)
  10. I might go with a semi-synthetic oil. If that quites my engine down a bit, I'll stick with it. If not, i'll give Mobile 1 a try. I always have ran Castrol GTX in my car.
  11. I might run some synthetic oil when I get my seals done in the next few months. I hope for it to quite down the clicking and ticking the engine makes (it isn't a loud ticking...but I don't like it.) Keep us posted on how it goes with the thicker oil.
  12. 1. The cars are good...except some of the 2.5l engines 2. Any of the 2.2l and the 2.5l from MY2000 and later. 3. 2.2l can go a long long time...250k+ if you take care of it...I don't know much about the 2.5l engines. 4. Timing belt costs about $300 to replace...and then you'll have oil leaks here and there...but it can all be done at the same time to save on labor. Avoid the 2.5L from 1996 - 1999. Unless you can get a really good deal, because then spending $1500 on head gaskets might make it worth it.
  13. They will probably cost you a lot. You might be better off getting some aftermarket rims, unless you can get the OEMs used or from a junkyard.
  14. Did you have the tow hooks cut off? Were they not recalled because they made air bags go off in low speed crashes? I might be crazy...so don't quote me on this.
  15. I want a whole new gauge assemby for my dash that is all digital. That would be sweet. Sorry I am no help to you...but I just thought i'd saw that'd be cool
  16. If you are looking for an engine i'd check out http://www.ccrengines.com/ I have not bought from them...but i've heard great things.
  17. Just think of it as a Toyota or a Honda...except with a more reliable engine. If you'd concider something like that, then this car would be great. I love AWD...but if the right price came around for a FWD Subaru...I might jump on it.
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