john in KY

I think the only way to remove the key is to remove the ignition switch from the column. Fairly sure then the switch can be taken apart.

No grease, no rust. Just looked at the inboard part of the caliper and both pins appear still there.

I thought that this morning. Don't recall a slide pin when I removed the caliper. Went to rock auto and checked some photos of calipers and didn't see a pin. Have to look more closely tomorrow. But I do know whatever that pin is it isn't part of the hub/knuckle and only the caliper is left. Don't know if this is related but bought the car 2 years ago and it had a brake shimmy. Replaced the rotors and pads. Little better but the shake still there. Hardly ever drive the car as it's the wife's car and she rarely uses it. We are both retired.

Photo:

Looked at that link and the photo looks just like what I removed. Will attempt to post a photo. Thanks for the link and GD is correct.

Went out and looked at that rod again. Little less than 2 inches in length, not 4 inches. One end shows a fresh break. Other end is rounded and looks normal. Don't think it is part of the ABS but what is it?

"Don't waste your time and money with the machine shop. Buy a hub and bearing and you can get it back together in an hour At least for me, time is more valuable then the money." Had to smile reading the "back together in an hour". It will be days before what I ordered gets here and since this is the wife's ride, I have several days of evil stares/the silent treatment to put up with.

Well, things went downhill this morning. Before heading to the machine shop, thought about that ball joint. Just like the bearing, frozen. Even an impact would not loosen the pinch bolt. Had enough and ordered a new knuckle. But when picking up my tools, I noticed a metal rod about the diameter of a pencil and 4 inches long on the ground. Only thought is it is part of the ABS sensor, which I removed early on in the process. Is this rod somehow part of the hub/knuckle/sensor? Would hate to put all this stuff back together only to have to take it all apart again.

Decided to replace a front wheel bearing. 2008 Outback Can not get the bearing hub to separate from the knuckle. Hammered on it. Bolted on a used rotor and hammered some more. Rented a slide hammer and gave up after 30 minutes. Plan now is to take the knuckle to a machine shop and hope they can free the bearing without breaking the knuckle. What the hell is going on here? Can rust be that strong?

There is probably a procedure to pinpoint which wheel nut I'm not familiar with it. My guess is one of the tone wheels has a crack which a visible check should show the bad wheel. From another forum: "A lot of times when these lights come one there is just too much brake dust stuck to the sensor (It is a magnet) and the sensor can no longer read the exciter ring. Pull all 4 brakes and rotors and check the sensors. If one or more is full of little metal things clean it off with brake cleaner, reset battery and drive. You will know as soon as you break the 5 mph mark wether or not it is fixed."

If the "buttons" are the problem, just replace the entire whatever. Pretty easy to do.

or if you remove the center console you'll see the cable can be adjusted from inside the car

Ended up using a 12 inch pipe wrench with a pipe extension. When installing the "new" crossmember, couldn't see anyway for it to go on with those 2 studs so used vice grips to remove them. Reinstalled them after the crossmember was in place. Edit: I thought those nuts had to be removed before dropping the crossmember. Not true. Discovered when I dropped the member with the differential there was plenty of access to those 2 nuts. Could have just used a socket.

Lots of rust in the eyes. Why I don't wear safety glasses will always be a mystery. Body of the old girl all not that bad. My fear was the area where the crossmember attached to the body would also be rusted out but not the case. I sort of get attached to vehicles. Still have my 66 Dodge Camper Special I bought back in 1994 in Alaska and then drove it 5K miles to AL. Old truck hardly gets in use anymore, the wife hates it and refuses to ride in it, takes both arms to steer it, and I'll probably die with it. If someone else attempts this repair, beware a 1/2 impact won't loosen the bolts. I ended up using a 3/4 breaker bar with an impact socket and a 3 foot extension. Those bolts are really in there. Another trick I used was drilling small holes in the frame above the hidden nuts. The holes made access to the captive nuts and I soaked them for several days. Don't really know if all that penetrating oil made any difference or not but once the bolts broke free, they can out easily.

Update: Got it all back together this morning. Never could get one of the lateral link bolts free. Replaced all the links from a 98 Forester because they where in much better shape than my originals. Part numbers where still visible. Original crossmember was just junk. May post a photo of it. Found and used a like new crossmember from a 97/98 Outback.

The LL Bean edition should have the 6 cylinder engine that isn't known to have head gasket problems.

I would think the swap is a go.

At least here in the States, the 87.5 version of the XT was the end of the run for turbos. But again here in the States, the turbo option continued up to including 1990 in the wagons and sedans. My guess is if you find a 1988 through 1990 FSM, you should have the same data for the 87.5. 88-90 FSMs for either the sedan or wagon.

Something that old has gears. No timing belt. Mystery solved.

Use a timing light to verify the timing hasn't changed and check the rotor in the distributer.

Pull the relay and cross the power directly, it works. Swap the relay with one of the headlight relays, still nothing Sounds like the relay isn't getting its "switch" voltage. The relay should have 4 terminals. One always hot and another only hot when the A/C is turned on from inside the car. Could use a test light to check the 2 hot sides. Also on the "switch" side, one terminal is a ground. With the engine running and the A/C on, 2 of the 4 wires at the relay will be hot. If so, then problem is no ground.

Ball joint?

Good to know. I decided to go with the Impreza cross member. Replaced the right rear knuckle assembly this morning because the original had a bad bearing. While under the car I attempted to loosen 2 of the 4 cross member bolts and to my surprise, both broke free. Probably tomorrow will see if the 2 on the other side will loosen. No hope for the 2 differential nuts. Just rusted away. Will try a pipe wrench and then a sharp chisel if need be. Anyone have a good Impreza cross member for sale?

I am also confused but in my case that is normal. The Subaru and Neon have different center bores. The Neon is larger and the wheel is no longer hubcentric on the Subaru. Maybe that is what the OP is referring to. There are charts out there that give the dimensions and companies that manufacture "rings" that make ip the differences. Do a goggle search for "wheel center bore".

"The early '95 Legacy uses a unique part number, although it supersedes to the same number as the '94-'01 Impreza." I have the early production 95 Legacy. Does the above quote mean the 94-01 Impreza and the early production Legacy used the same cradle? Asking because I still can't pull the trigger to scrap the old wagon. Sort of a family member after all these years.