john in KY

Both the radio memory and overhead light are wired to have full-time 12v so probably just a fuse problem as suggested.

I think a new radiator will solve the overheating problem. The one in the car is now 25 years old.

Run the AC for a few minutes and you will see a puddle of water form under the car in front of the passenger seat well. Or just look under the car, right side, for a dangling hose under the firewall. Use compressed air to clear it. The heater core is inside a sealed box. If it springs a leak, coolant begins to collect inside the box.

The heater core has a leak.

I would first replace the fuel filters. I believe there are 2.

Oil pressure sensor sprung a leak?

Just a WAG but could a caliper be just hitting the inside of a wheel?

Did you check the fuses under the hood? Check that fusible link also.

Fuel tank under the hood? Wonder what the outcome would be when the car is involved in a front end collision? Engine smashes tank, tank ruptures, gasoline flows on hot exhaust...guessing not a real concern after all.

My guess is your mechanic installed the correct pump so forget about the fuel pressure being too high. The photo of those 2 lines sure look like fuel lines to me. Where/what to they connect to?

If your car is indeed a Loyale, than it was originally fuel injected. If the stock fuel pump wasn't changed when the Weber was added, then the fuel pressure is too high. Carbs leak for various reasons but the most common is too high fuel pressure and/or the float is adjusted too high. carburatore don't use/have a fuel return line.

Radiators don't last forever and yours is 30 years old.

In my world I would first suspect a failing driveshaft.

If you do opt for new heads, I won't, make sure they are the generation 3 heads.

I did the swap in an 85 wagon 10 or more years ago. My advice is to swap the entire dash as a unit. The under-the-hood work is pretty basic.

I don't think you had leak on at least that side. A cylinder that has a leak typically has been "steam cleaned". All the pistons and valves look about the same to me. Equal amounts of carbon build up/stuff on the valve faces.

Have own 2 turbos over the years. Both developed a crack but not in a location to cause a leak. Just lucky.

That is one strange sound. Have you looked at the driveshaft? Noise sounds rotational.

That turbo is both coolant and oil cooled. Replacing the line isn't the end of the world but I won't overlook the possibility of a cracked turbo. Point is, don't assume the problem is a line. Verify/identify where the coolant leak is originating.

Replacing the temperature sensor may fix this. Also check the condition of the wire at the sensor.

The TPS is still not adjusted. Start at the middle of its range and then make very small adjustments one way and the other. Have to road test each adjustment. If the shits get harder and shift points increase, going the wrong way on the adjustment.

Check for the FSM on eBay. What engine parts are you looking for?

You almost always can find a new belt slightly smaller than the one you now have.

I probably should not respond to this but for some reason I don't think a MT can have torque bind.

FORD FESTIVA 1990-1993 Probably even a lesser chance of finding this one.