john in KY

Southern. About 50 miles due north of Nashville.

$200. Plus I will guarantee it to be good.

Just throwing this out there but I have a low mileage FWD 4EAt saved from a 94 in case you may need another.

I own a screwdriver but not a C-clamp.

New brake pads means the caliper pistons will have to be recessed. The first thing I do is use a long screwdriver as a pry bar to force the piston back. Really helps to also crack the bleeder valve because that fluid has to go somewhere.

Pull the steering wheel column. Remove that plastic strip at the base of the windshield to exposes a few mounting screws. Take it from there. Probably will take 2 hours.

I would just go with a stock system. Why pay for what will be a very expensive system that will far outlast the car?

Not an expert on this but thinking if the problem is a solenoid, you would get the 16 flashing lights. My money is on the tail housing needs replaced. some member a while back posted the transmission codes. Can't at the moment recall his name.

The timing marks, are you using the ones on the flywheel or the front pulley? I think the balancer has marks. Could be wrong about that. Anyways, if using the timing marks on the balancer, the balancer could have slipped on its hub. As far as I know, the TPS sort of controls the injector pulse lengths and the automatic transmission shift points. I don't think it has anything to do with ignition timing.

The distributor could be installed one tooth off. I don't think the TPS is the source of your problem. I would suspect a loose timing belt or a worn distributor first.

I seriously doubt the differential ratios will be the same.

As for the P0420 code, my answer is no. Almost sounds like either the injectors are not firing or the fuel pressure is too low. I think a noid light can be used to ascertain if the injectors are firing.

Did a little research and decided to just buy the complete kit. All save the original parts, replace the bearings someday and have them around to use in the future. I keep cars a long time. Still driving the 95 with around 300k miles on it. One question: Is the bolt that retains the tensioner reverse threaded? What nipper posted appears to loosen, turn CW.

Got it. Thanks.

2008 3.0 Outback. Changed the air filter today and took a look at the serpentine belt and am at a lost how it is adjusted. All the idlers appear to me to be nonadjustable and it doesn't appear anyway the alternator can be moved to tighten the belt.

I can't imagine any Subaru towing 5K pounds. Could be wrong but that is a bunch of weight.

Plus 2 about the lug nuts. Wheels are useless without them as the lug nuts are unique.

Have the tire checked for a broken cord. Had a similar problem last summer.

Just a wag here but my guess is the sensors from the blown engine are different from the replacement engine.

A wrecking yard or at a dealer. If you go the wrecking yard route, just pull one the same size/color. Doesn't have to be from a BRAT. Any GL/Loyale up to 1994 will have the links.

1st generation Legacy did have the air-suspension option. Only have seen one in person. Fairly rare option.

Not 100% sure but don't think that are interchangeable.

Looked at the video. Looks to me like the car needs all new struts. Have you looked under the car? May have a broken spring.

Two things come to mind: the timing belt that drives the distributor and the coil bracket. Coil bracket has to be grounded. Not grounded=no spark. Like Dave stated, check all the wiring harness plugs/connectors.

White smoke under the hood and out the tailpipe is rather odd. A cracked head/failed head gasket would produce white smoke out the tail pipe but not under the hood. The only way to have both happening in my mind is the turbo housing has a crack.