john in KY

1995 Legacy. Discovered a torn outer CV axle boot. This morning pulled the axle and replaced both boots. Went to get a cup of coffee and noticed the car won't hold on a grade in PARK. Plus a heard a noise when moving the shifter into PARK. On the short drive home the engine rpms shot up twice. Classic symptom of a stripped hub. This isn't my first time replacing boots. Wish I had a dollar for every time so don't believe I screwed up the axle. But seems very odd the hub splines would fail immediately after repairing the boots. Tomorrow or the next day will pull it all apart again. Just weird. Edit: If I determine the hub splines failed, will be in the market for a good hub/knuckle. LF axle if that makes a difference.

Doubtful if damaged driven only 100 yards. My guess is 4 years ago the fitting was cross-threaded.

I'm originally from a small community, Kinsman, about 30 miles due south of you. Welcome to the forum.

Differential don't "slip". My money is on the cluch being worn out but can't explain why 2nd gear, not 1st, gets you up the hill.

Remove the spark plugs. spin the engine over to clear the cylinders, reinstall spark plugs and then make a decision. Engine could have bent connecting rods. If the price is dirt cheap and the car is overall in good condition, buy it and just replace the engine.

Splice in a boost gauge and verify what the boost actually is. Thinking stock should be 6 pounds. I ran 12 pounds for 100K miles without any problems in my ex 90 turbo wagon.

The plastic connecters may be color-coded. Can't recall for sure but do recall the connecters are different. Saying if 2 wires close together, no way they can be cross-plugged.

New gasket arrived today. Original gasket looked good but by a stain on part of the pump flange I ascertained it was leaking there. Area with the stain, the plastic flange has a small crack...damn. I applied a dab of ultra gray, reassembled everything and currently still dry. Really really don't ever want to do this job again but if it starts to leak again, I'll bit the bullet and get a new pump. Edit: Did learn why the pump housing leaked when the rank was less than full and not pressurized. The pump assembly resides inside its own little tank/canister. A second pump pumps fuel into the fuel pump canister and then the main pump feeds the injectors. No matter how full or empty the main tank is, the fuel pump is always completely submerged in fuel.

The fuse for my 08 is inside the underhood fuse panel. The fuses are identified also.

Shouldn't be that difficult with just basic tools. Have to remove the front CV axles that could be a challenge. Plan on replacing the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing and have the flywheel machined. Also good time to check the condition of the driveshaft U-joints. Good luck on the trip.

No, I don't overfill. The leak is either the pump gasket or one of the hose connecters. Disconnected the 2 hoses this morning, sort of dried the top of the pump and will wait to see if more fuel puddles up. Had a good-size stain under the car this morning which makes me think some sort of siphoning is going on. Leaning toward a bad gasket but can't figure out why it would leak around the gasket. Tank not pressurized/engine not running. "making me think your fuel line is draining backwards" How is this possible? Bad FPR?

Removed the pump inspection plate and it appears the pump gasket is weeping fuel. Tank is not pressurized which puzzles me. Only thing I can think of is I overfilled the tank and the gasket is bad. Will let the car idle to burn off fuel and take it from there.

Wife noticed a wet spot under car last night. Turned out to be gasoline. I suspected filler tube. Just pulled all the covers and the filler tube, what I can see, appears not to be the problem. Fuel is dripping from right-front corner of the tank. Going to pull the rear seat thinking there is an inspection plate there for the fuel pump. I topped off the tank Friday. Don't yet know if that is part of the problem. Anyways, if the filler tube is not the problem, any ideas what else could be?

Ordered new code reader and from the photo noticed the plug has 16 pins whereas my old reader has far fewer. Will know something next week when the new one gets here.

Went to AutoZone. #6 coil. Pulled battery. Lights out. Anyone recommend a good scan tool?

Car flashed a bunch of icons returning home from dinner last night. CEL/cruise/the letter "S"/some icon that looks like a car with 2 squiggly lines. Used a code reader this morning and the reader gets me as far has "Err" which I assume is error. Checked the same reader in my 95 and it worked as designed. What am I doing wrong or do I need a newer code reader. the one I have is at least 10 years old. Back to the 08. Went to change the shift mode (car has 3 different settings) and no-go. Remained in the "sport" mode.

Ok. Thinking you can retain the original transmission by swapping the "bell housing". A non XT6 4EAT will have a different rear mount. Guess you could swap the rear extension and end up with a newer 4EAT. Going from 6 injectors to 4 imo will be a wiring nightmare. Does your XT6 need an engine? Asking because I have an ER27.

Not clear what you are wanting to do here. You have an XT6 and want to swap the engine? The XT6 already has the 4EAT?

Last update: Got it all back together yesterday. Had a "scrapping" sound that turned out to be the inner side of the rotor just touching the dust shield. My favorite "tool" solved that problem. Can't wait for the day I have to do the other side.

Any transmission up to 1999 should be direct bolt-in but you have to know what differential ratio you have. Subaru used a 3.90 ratio in the early Legacys and then moved up to 4.11 and 4.44. Have a strong feeling you have the 3.90 ratio. Edit: If your car was manufactured after Oct. 1993 it will have the 4.11 ratio. There is a sticker on the door jam that shows when manufactured. What if before Oct. 1993? I don't know.

Tried your suggestion tonight and took maybe 2 minutes and the hub popped out. Have a new knuckle in the mail but just couldn't let a hunk if iron defeat me.

Just checked car-part.com and saw that 02/03/04 appear to be interchangeable but the 01 engine was listed all by itself. Something is different. Maybe intake, maybe some sensors. Don't know.

I concur. Don't know what it is, where it came from but am assured it is not anything to do with the hub/knuckle.

Subaru uses batch firing of the injectors which means 3 and 4 fire simultaneously so I doubt you have an ECU problem. As an aside, there is a 95 postal wagon in the local pull-a-part yard.

I'm not sure how to remove the lock cylinder. Remove the plastic cover behind the steering wheel. Then remove the 2 headless bolts. Headless? It's a security thing. Not very tight. Slot the bolts and use a screwdriver to remove or use a left-handed drill bit to spin them out.