john in KY

Check the rear suspension cross member, the part everything bolts to. My guess it will be badly rusted. Not the easiest thing to replace, did it in my 95, but will cost a fortune if you pay someone to do it.

'Rust is also a huge deterrent in your area - check the underneath like the rear suspension, brakes, and exhaust which could look like scrap metal ". Replacing rusted undercarriage parts is not fun.

May as well also check the FPR. Just pull the hose.

If the above doesn't solve the problem, remove the rear seat and look/sniff around. My newer Outback had me smelling gasoline and the problem was a failing fuel pump gasket.

I don't know either. Edit: Checked another site and you are correct. My bad.

15 inch wheels will probably not clear the front brake calipers but easy to check.

Any codes? How does the muffler look? Once had one where a baffle inside broke free and was impeding the flow.

If you just replaced the radiator, strongly suspect a loose hose clamp.

Th transmission/torque convertor could be the source of the problem. Idle rpms seems high to me.

The Mazda Tribute and the Ford whatever are decent vehicles. Bought a well used one for a family member a couple of years ago and still running strong at around 300K. Replacing the alternator on the other hand will make a strong man cry. What a PITA.

One way involves using seat of the pants technique. Make a minute adjustment, I would start withe the TPS in the middle of its sweep, and take a test ride. Eventually you will find the sweet spot.

I would have just went to a wrecking yard and bought a complete steering column. Thinking 5 bolts and done.

Ouch.

Did you completely drain the old fuel? I once dealt with 20-year old gasoline and it is nasty stuff. Just mentioning this because the pick-up in the tank could be clogged.

My guess is you will have to redo the seals.

Welcome back.

My 95 had very similar symptoms. Over on the passenger side mounted on the inner fender is something with 2 vacuum lines. One of the lines was disconnected. Plugged it back in and problem solved. This solved the stalling problem. Your other problem, engine racing, almost always an air leak. Check all those hoses the connect with the air intake tube.

I think it will depend on the year of the 2.5.

Put it up on a lift to evaluate the amount of rust. My concern is the rear suspension cradle/crossmember has seen better days. My 95 has far less visible rust but very little of that member was left. Did replace it but not a job I would want to do again.

Just returned from the wrecking yard. Yard had only one Subaru and someone before me had damaged that trim piece. Post in the parts wanted section and I am sure some of the west coast members will have that part. Subarus in KY are fairly rare and everyone and their brothers owns one in the PNW. John

Needle-nose grips would be my choice. I checked a spare transmission I have and only one bolt secures the tube. I didn't read all the posts that closely and assumed you needed that trim piece above the radio that I have. Now I see you need the trim piece below what I have that I don't have. Will take a trip to the local wrecking yard tomorrow and will pull that piece if one available. How does $10 sound? John

Can you grab onto it with ViceGrips? Any reason your son seems reluctant to do any help with this? I just happen to have that trim piece. Just pay postage and I'll mail it to you. Thinking there is only one bolt down by the base of the tube. Could just remove it and then pull the complete housing.

You may end up creating more problems with that stuff. Why not first pinpoint the source of the problem? Doesn't take much to bypass the heater core. Radiator that old has to be on its last leg.

My 95 wagon with 330k miles still has its original strut mounts.

That socket is out there. About 20 years ago I bought a pin socket that was a perfect fit for my XT6. Problem is I can't remember from where or how I seleted that particular pin socket.