john in KY

Requires an adapter.

I put 100K on a turbo wagon running 12 pounds of boost along with other modifications. Never had a problem with it. When I sold it the young man that bought it managed to destroy the front differential.

One wire will always be hot as it is the "memory" wire otherwise you would lose all the presets everytime the car is shut off.

My guess is adding a starter relay will solve the problem. Plenty of how to do on the net.

oops.

Yes, the turbo models. The XT and XT6 models used the same stuff.

Recently saw 40 over pistons on eBay.

Just a guess but the different diameters may have to do with rather disc brakes all 4 wheels or just in the front.

I have never seen a part time AWD 4EAT. My 85 XT had the 3-speed.

Same thing happened to me. In my case it was a 225 Mopar that had sat for 20 years.

Check the linkage under the car. Have someone move the shifter and verify that whatever thing the rod connects to moves through its range. That whatever fan-shaped thing may have failed and check its wiring harness. I have a FWD 4EAT from a 94 model with 84K miles that has been sitting in a shed the last 20 or so years. PM me if you should become interested in it.

I just happen to still have the ignition switch with key for this.

The coil bracket has to be grounded. Make sure the bolts holding it to the body are tight. Also insure the wiring harness for that little transistor whatever riveted to the coil bracket is plugged in.

Pull a spark plug and test for spark. Just ground the body of the plug. May have a weak coil.

Can always be welded.

My guess is a low voltage condition.

I don't think, based on what you have stated, that the transmission is the problem. Rotate the tires front to back and note if anything changes. Any idea how old the tires are?

Check coolant level and go for it. Do't over think this.

Looks correct. Line connected to the FPR is the return line.

You probably reinstalled the 2 fuel lines between manifold and fuel filter wrong.

As far as I know, this model does not use an ECU. If the no-start condition appeared immediately after changing the plug wires, I would double check you got the firing order correct. How in the world did you note the coil was wired backward? The coil may have a short. Replace it with a known good one.

Why was the distributor replaced? Have you checked the positive side of the coil for voltage? "And the coil to starter is good." Makes no sense to me. The coil and starter are stand alone parts.

Batery/altertnator outputs easy to test. I'm thinking maybe the problem is the alternator is not being spun fast enough.

Other thought: AFM.