john in KY

You nailed it. Took a closer look this morning with the "air tube" removed and noticed one of the hose clamps was installed wrong. My fault when I pulled the engine 2 years ago to correct another one of my screw ups. Took the wife out for dinner and put 60 miles on the engine and no leak.

That doesn't sound right to me. The only other thing I can think of is the injectors aren't firing.

Thanks for the links. Decided to bit the bullet and went and ordered all new hoses. Figured why not since the intake needs pulled.

Discovered a coolant line that side of the engine and decide to just replace everything over there since the intake manifold has to be pulled. What is a good online Subaru dealer?

Just noticed/discovered coolant collecting on the right rear side of the engine. Fairly sufficient leak. Dripping down on the motor mount. At a lose at what is the source. Can't see any coolant hoses on that side of the engine. Is there one for the throttle body? Is there a temp sensor in the area?

Post in the parts wanted section for a used one.

I doubt that part is the problem. No spark would have me checking for a broken timing belt, a loose rotor, and insuring the coil bracket was tight against the car body as it acts as a ground for the suspect part. Would also replace the coil.

Crawled under the dash today and didn't take long to determine gaining access to the relay would be a nightmare so went to the other side and pulled the motor. Replaced it and the system works. Just for jollies, test the original motor out of the car and it worked? Guessing the motor has a "flat spot".

1995 Legacy. Last few weeks the blower has failed. Fooled with it a few minutes tonight and can hear a relay under the dash click when the "speed" switch with is turned. Thinking problem is either the relay or the motor has failed. Leaning toward the motor because I can hear the relay click Been super sick last few weeks, haven't been to china, and don't want to go through the trouble of replacing one of the two guesses only to learn it was the other guess. Because the relay clicks, does this mean it is good?

95 Legacy. Wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends all replaced about 25K miles ago. Recently took a 1500 mile trip to Ohio and noticed a very slight steering wheel shake at 70/80 mph. Few weeks ago at around 30 mph the shake suddenly appeared (much worse) on a country road and the car had a strong pull to the right. I turned around to go home and the shake just stopped after about a mile. Today going around 30 mph again the shake and pulling to the right started again. Stopped. turned around to limp home and again the problem just stopped as suddenly as it began. Only difference this time there was a click coming from the LF wheel. Was obvious associated with the wheel rotation. Will take a look under the car when it warms up but wondering if anyone has a guess or similar experience. Thinking it may have something to do with the brake caliper or rotor.

Can't visualize what the shaft looks like without the joints installed but maybe cutting 1/2" from each end may work. Long time ago I had a transmission input shaft modified when I installed an Olds engine in a 44 Jeep. The machinist turned down one side of the cut shaft, drilled a hole in the other and left a lot of space between the cut that he filled with weld. Never broke although can't say that for the rear axles. But I was a lot younger then.

The ECU is under the package tray in the trunk. From memory it will have 2 test conecters, green and black. First checked to see if unplugged. Not supposed to be continuously plugged in. Use the green connecter to check for any codes. That little light will flash.

May as well since every thing will be apart.

My advice is the few dollars saved is not worth the risk. Do know Mahle manufacture chainsaw engine cylinders that have a good reputation for quality.

Youngstown, Ohio craiglist ad I stumbled onto.

Now would be a great time with the wheels off to check those 'tone wheels". If one has a crack, there is the problem.

I have a FWD transaxle out in the shed that still has the inner joints if you can use them. Junk yard cut the axles when I bought the engine.

Sorry but can not recall what I did all those years ago.

"do the sensors on the rear wheels plug into something under the rear seat?" Yes. Just a continuation of the wiring harness. Check the tone wheels for a crack.

My guess is yes except for the difference in final drive ratios. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156582-outback-h6-4eat-compatability/

Sounds like a relay has started to click behind the dash. As of now only the driver's window works. Did a little research and checked the sunroof and power seat which both still function. Initially thought either the relay or circuit breaker had failed but with one window and the sunroof and power seat still functioning, wondering if the problem is something else. Anyone have a suggestion what to do/check next? Edit: Research suggested to pull fuse 26 to disable the circuit breaker. What happen is this: power seat and sunroof still worked but the driver's window stopped working and the clicking still continued.

Owned a total of 5 over the years and enjoyed all of them but let my last one go around 10 years ago. Never had a serious problem with any of them but parts availability started to become a real issue. Certain parts just don't exist anymore. Just thought I'd mention this. A real bummer when the engine needs eg an oil pump. As an aside, the last one I parted with, sold to a friend that later sold it to another friend and she is still on the road.

What are the odds the radiator and the timing belt both fail simultaneously.

Also each head has an oil seal. The one on the passenger-side there to accommodate a distributor. Some markets used a distributor. The other side, don't know why there. From my experience, the passenger-side will be leaking. The oil separator plate mentioned above always leaks over time but if you spring for this job, Definitely have those other 2 seals replaced.

With someone else cranking the engine, check for voltage at the fusible links, both sides, and for voltage at the coil. As for the ECU being bad, I really doubt that. When you did that work on the engine, somehow you caused this no-start problem.