john in KY

The coil bracket is also used as a ground. If loose no spark.

Don't overlook checking for spark/fuel. The basics.

If by hubs you are referring to the wheels, my guess is everything else will be stock Subaru stuff. Edit: If the curent calipers also contain the E-brake, then everything other than the wheels are stock.

Does this model have the hill-holder feature?

"You can try soaking it with AeroKroil or other rust penetrant but your success may vary. Sometimes using a chisel to open up the split assuming you got the entire pinch bolt out." That's the technique I used to remove the last ball joint I did. Took a couple of three days but that Kroil will eventually "eat" that rust. Had the knuckle off the car. Don't know what your time is worth but new knuckles on eBay for around $80.

That popping sound is classic ball joint failure.

A complete new engine will be very expensive. I think a rebuilt chart block goes for around $2500. Check out car-parts.com for a used engine. If this was my problem, used engine all the way. Rebuilding your engine will be very expensive. Crankshaft/ rods/bearings/labor...wow. Currently live in KY but originally from Ohio. Hooked up with the ex while attending school in VA.

From your description of the problem I won't throw money at the original engine. Subaru offers a factory rebuilt short block or source a low-mileage used engine. Replacing the engine itself is not rocket science and the kid down the street can probably do it for a few hundreds. My ex is from Pico Rivera. Good chance you probably dated her as I learn over time the girl really got around.

Problem solved. Looked behind radio/glove box/under steering wheel and never found that relay. Two days ago I replaced the HVAC control panel and in the process unplugged the 4-way flasher button. Didn't remember to plug it back in and that was the problem

Lost my turn signals tonight. Fairly confident the relay failed but where is it located?

May be as simple as adjusting the clutch. My old Dodge truck has a hydraulic clutch and I can always tell when the slave cylinder needs replaced as it becomes a bear to shift gears, especially reverse.

When was the fuel filter last changed?

More probable the CTS, coolant temperature sensor, needs replaced.

Be careful if you have to remove the air lines. Those plastic couplers are easy to snap. A short plastic straw spot longways makes an excellent tool. The XT6 used the same compressor and I think the 1st generation Legacy also used the same part.

I know one thing, the tire shop won't pay. Older models had a fuse holder under the hood that disabled the AWD function. If this model has one, insert a fuse and if the vibration is still there, probably not caused by a transmission problem.

I don't know but thinking 2 types of rotors. One type requires a set screw. May want to check the rotor. Just remembered the coil bracket must have a good ground contact.

Loose battery cable or blown fusible link. Links should be in a small box near the battery.

First thing I would do is replace those 20-year old headlights with new ones.

From experience, removing the inner joint from the differential will test your patience.

Welcome.

the splines on the hub have stripped.

Don't know if it was an option but my 85 had one.

Looks like either an 85 or 86. I just happen to have a blue steering column cover if interested.

clear codes via the ODBII port 1995 was 1st year to have OBDII.

I'll take a shot at it. The switch in the overhead I would think is sort of 2 switches in one. In one position it allows current to flow in a direction that causes the motor to turn CW. In the other position the current through the switch flows in a different circuit allowing the motor to turn CCW. Because you believe you have current leaving the switch, you are testing only 1/2 of the switch. Just guessing here but there could be 2 wires on the motor side of the switch. One will be hot when the switch is one position and the other cold. Place the switch in the other position and the cold wire should now be hot. Could always pull the headliner and then test the motor or what I would do is just replace the switch. A member over on the Subaru Outback forum, can't think of his handle, helped me a few years ago when I had sunroof problems.