john in KY

Thanks Mike. Dropped the Forester cradle and had a bad feeling so left it on the ground. Surprisingly had no problems with any of the bolts. Nearly 70 years old. on my back, and had it out in 3 hours. Getting too old for this crap and decided to retire the old wagon. 12 years ownership and pushing 300K miles. In the market for another newer Subaru and maybe a Jeep cherokee. Was planning on a trip to the Youngstown area in a few weeks but will have to put that on hold.

Two questions: How can an owner determine the build date of the car? Always thought there was a sticker on the door jam but nothing there. I made did to know if my car was built before 01/95 or after. Currently involved is replacing the badly rusted rear suspension cradle. Car is a 95 Legacy that for some reason I think was built before the beginning of 95. Found a good cradle in a local wrecking yard under a 98 Forester. Was under the impression and cradles/all models from that era essentially the same but what I just found on the internet has me doubting that. Question is does anyway know if the cradle under the Forester will replace the one under the 95 Legacy? I just about have the 98 cradle about to fall out and plan on finishing the job tomorrow but why buy it if it will not fit. Edit: found the manufacture build date sticker: 10/94 Decided to finish pulling that Forester cradle tomorrow. If it turns out to be a no-go, it goes on eBay.

PM sent and thanks for the response/advice. Leaning toward doing the bearing replacement. Dreading the thought. What did the new knuckle cost? John

Fairly sure the right rear hub on my 95 Legacy is on its way out. Just wondering what years/models will interchange. Attempted a rear hub bearing years ago and said never again. Plan is to just replace the entire assembly. TIA. John

Use a relay. Use the original wiring to trigger the relay and then use a fused dedicated wire that will power the light.

Problem is either torque bind or differential ratio mismatch. Sounds like the transmission could have been replaced. there should be a sticker on the bell housing that when deciphered, will tell what transmission now in the car. Having the current transmission rebuilt imo is the most expensive option. Used Subaru transmission aren't expensive. I have one from a 98 with well less than 100K miles on it and no one wants to pay even $100 for it. whatever the current front differential ratio is can be determined from that sticker. Have to inspect the rear. Thinking there is a cover that can be removed. Go from there.

Recheck the hose clamps.

Just increase the tension on the belt until the noise stops. Once determined the problem is a slipping belt, replace it because now it has become glazed.

My guess is the current timing is too far advanced. You need a timing light to correctly time the distributor.

Probably just need to tighten the belt. If the problem is a slipping belt, replace it.

I have in the past removed the one in my 95. Just from memory, easily done. thinking the lens pops off and then a couple of screws. Good chance the sunroof is not working is its wiring harness is disconnected/the shop forgot to plug it back in. Just recalled there are 2 connectors. One is obvious. The other one is about 6 inches from the light, driver's side. You'll need to remove the visor and the headliner can be pulled back enough to gain access. My money is on this plug is the one the shop overlooked.

If a much older model I would say "ball joint".

Compressed air may be able to pinpoint the problem. Apply air to the cylinder with the valves in the closed position. If you hear compressed air escaping through the exhaust, should indicate a vale problem.

May have also popped a fuse under the dash. That contraption on the coil bracket gets 5V from the ECU. The distributor gets 12V. May want to check both. Also the coil bracket has to be grounded. Other words the bracket completes the ground. May want to test the alternator for output.

Good chance you crossed those 2 fuel lines at the fuel filter.

altenator failure?

How fast can I torch a rear quarter panel or front fender rails off? I would not use a torch. I once cut up a complete XT6 using just a Sawsall (sp?). Really didn't take that long. Something like a nibbler or cut-off wheel would be better for the panels.

The idlers can be rebuilt by just replacing the bearing. Some if not all the other stuff may no longer be available. Try the dealer first and take a look at Rock Auto.com.

Loyale

If you can still find them, Struts/shocks for a FWD XT will lower the car down to its bump stops.

Buy the Legacy.

Pulled the pipe off a shelf where it has resided for probably 15 years and surprise. Not a 2.2 Y-pipe. I had written on it "1999 2.5 RS". Sorry.

Supposedly a 93/94 FWD transmission will not interchange with a 92 FWD. Would like to know why. The only reason I can think is a difference in the CV axles. From what I have researched, if the transmission is AWD, then the 92/93/94 all interchange. If AWD transmissions interchange, why not the FWDs?

I have a like new dual port Y-pipe. Don't know about the location of the sensor but could send photos if I have an email address.

I live in Elkton, KY, not Elkton, TN. Let me know when you expect to be here. John