john in KY

Pull one of the ATF lines that go to the radiator and crank the engine. ATF everywhere means the pump is good. No flow means the pump is broken.

Vacuum modulator on the passenger side of the transmission. Also make sure the vacuum line is still connected.

If you removed the brake caliper for the repair, recheck its mounting bolts.

Will do. Thanks.

Thinking I need another distributor for an 8 9 XT. Also thinking all the EA82 NA distributors after 1988 interchange but 100% sure of this. Anyone know for sure?

May just be a broken timing belt.

I removed the headrests from a pair of XT seats just last week. Feel around with your fingers and one of the "posts" will have a wire clip thingee. I used needle nose pliers and twisted that clip and that freed the headrest. Don't know if that was the correct procedure to remove them but it worked for me.

The last 100K miles I drove my turbo wagon, ran 12 pounds of boost and no IC. Guess I was just lucky.

I would repair the body damage and drive it as is. My old 90 turbo wagon had over 300K on it when I sold it and it was still running great. Old radiators and dirty injectors will kill this engine. Since you have to replace the radiator anyways, that is one potential problem resolved. I won't trust the injectors without having them cleaned since the car has ben sitting so many years.

I have a few used ones.

I have replaced my fair share of clutches over the last 40 years and have never replaced any of these bolts or had a failure.

Pull the vacuum line on the FPR just for jollies.

You will have to retain the 86 intake manifold. I have a good short block saved from an 89 XT and an AWD 5-speed from an 89 turbo wagon that has the 3.70 ratio.

It was the AFM on my car.

Could be wrong but I think the compressor will have a data spec tag on it that will state all this.

Don't know why seemingly everyone is down on FWD Subarus. Drove one for 3 years in Alaska and it never failed me.

A new radiator can solve a lot of overheating problems.

Ticking almost always indicates the pump is sucking air. Looks like you need to redo the gaskets.

Had an 85 XT once with the exact same problem. Problem turned out to be a bad ground wire that attached to one of the intake manifold bolts on the passenger side of the engine. Hooked up a noid light and cranked. No triggering on the injectors. Both sides of the injector plug sit at +12v the whole time. This doesn't seem right. One side should have 12v but not both. For some reason voltage is being "backfed" from the ECU. I would unplug the ECU and determine which two wires are from the injector circuit. (The injectors are fired in pairs so the 4 wires from the individual injectors somewhere between the injectors and ECU become two wires.) If my multimeter shows these two wires are hot then that tells me there is a short somewhere between the injectors and ECU. If the wires aren't hot then the problem I would think is a short inside the ECU.

Just replace that 23-year -old radiator.

Yikes. The last engine I saw that looked this bad was 45 years ago. Next to impossible to get this much build up if the oil was occasionally changed . Almost makes me think the PO used nondetergent oil in this engine.

Gap an old plug to .080. If it can jump a spark, figure the ign system is good to go.

Since there is a U-Pull nearby, grab the ignitor and the coil packs. Have you ever checked for spark when experiencing the no-start condition?

Don't think the flexplate could be the problem but there is a fair chance the transmission case cracked.

I doubt if the alternator is the cause of this problem. Recall reading somewhere that the electronics in the car will work down to 10 volts. Below that and the ECU goes "offline". As for everything being too hot to touch, sounds perfectly normal to me. Edit: When the car stalled out in the driveway, did the battery still have enough juice to crank the engine? If so then the charging system/battery is working just fine. Edit: If you just want to throw parts at the problem, replace the plug wires, the coil packs and that thing on the firewall.