electryc_monk

wow am i feeling the foot-in-mouth factor - bigtime. After i tested and cleaned the contact places for the coil and the related wires around it... did the "okay lets start from square one like we've never touched this car before" and here's what came of it.... place the 3 lines centered on the bellhousing arrow: dr side cam was one tooth off pass side cam was (i don't know how) nearly 90 degrees off distributor was appearantly near correct position. reset the cam's methodically slow. lined up on the TDC ")" for the dizzy reinstal. ....... after abunch of fun and games.... it startred up finally! holds a fast idle at about 1K then tried to use the timing light for figuring out the placement. tried to find a smooth idle as it was a bit rough... adjusted the dizzy one tooth advanced and tryed the idle screw; then tryed the one tooth retarded from original specing.... nope not good either.... back to rotor at TDC for #1 plug... well the timing light died.. borrowed a friends and discovered that the idle timing showed up at well over 30degreeeBTDC . how'd i know this? I removed the adj screws and slowly turned the distributor in the retarding direction... it kept turning and the engine died at just about 20degrees BTDC. so then i figured on searching threads and found this one with regard to a "yet again" forgotten factoid about setting timing of the turbo engines. (side note I would of been scowering(sp) the service manual but, its in the hands of a new friend up here who has a wagon that needs help and i figured i could do without it over the weekend i went to see family down south in Battle creek....well now i need it. and don't have access to it so that's why the searching of threads) thanks to the comment from "NorthWet": http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42584 so now i guess i'll be phoning for my manual as i'll need to findout the piece and where it goes so i can properly tune this engine in. (lowers head in humble manner) time for food, and to await advice

if nothing else someone could send you a set of spare "leftover" stock Cam's from a EA82T ........that way your just swapping cam for cam.

ahhhhh hah! And here I was thinking that a thread i saw in a bio-diesel/WVO forum had intewresting merit; take the TDI system and make it non-electronic for the swap into a VW caddy or some other car. My thoughts are... find out the weight, and diamentions and obviously the flywheel mounting pattern and see if its able to fit in a EA82 platform or if it will have to be swapped into a EJ platform. One of the forums had a picture of a swap and the TDI was slanted at a serious tilt. The VW TDI that i saw was from a transverse mount originally and was longitudinally into I think some RWD nissan or mazda? So who wants to go to a J/Y and have the data posted here from a VW TDI so we can all start theorizing the bene'ies of a AFS (Alternate fueled Subie)

okay newsflash... now I have no spark ???? the plugs got wet again so the injectors work... after mucho distractions - finally found the accel website for data on the coil that came with this car when i rescued it back in 1999. Accel 8140 Super stock 42K V, the primary Ohms=1.2 and 2ndary Ohms= 8.9K from the company site: http://www.accel-ignition.com/AskTechResults.aspx?brandID=3&ID=27339 Now my coil tested out with : Primary Ohm= 1.6 - 2.0 2ndary Ohm = 6.87K (scratches head) that seems close enough to be good... will go see if i have a stock/spare coil around the barn??? oh wait nope that's in tejas! (slaps forehead)..well wait a second there it that old steamer trunk in the barn........maybeeeeeeeeeeeee... still need to go back out to do that "thumb" pressure check... was helping/distracted by the 4.5 and 2.2 y/o nephews still visiting here for the weekend. more later.

bumped for subscription and awaiting the posting of diagram and pictures of parts and placement.

Okay so I've had a "here's your sing" event this week with this how shmeeeelll. While engine was on the bench i did all cleaning of bolts, plates. mating surfaces, hose ends, and generally got rid of any corrosion. Tools at my disposal: wirewheel on one side and grinder on other, drill with wirewheel tip, drill press, files, sandpaper, and cleaners. eh, about the timing of this beast..... i did the step-by-step cam belt install with the flywheel locked inplace by a metal punch that fit right into one of them holes on it. Then i got the second belt installed the same way... great now the dizzy went in with no sweat. First mistake realized after a day and a half with it not starting this week. Yup. the dizzy was 180 degrees out. You see i somehow forgot to look at the flywheel for a TDC 0 degree setting before installing the dizzy. Ohhh great. Well after going al over the place (mentally speaking) Larry asked "are you 100% sure its not 180 out? And I said that noi can not be 100% sure of that.... so i walked him thru the steps of a cam belt replacement/install and then the little note about TDC as his second question was about the degree offset for TDC...... Can you see where its going now? Uh huh. after a cleaning/drying of the plugs and the pair of us realigning the timing for the dizzy and testing of the ignition one more time (once the 180 offset was fixed) to make sure there was still sparking... in went the plugs..... not ignition and starting but the battery was showing signs of a long day or starter spinning... so on the charger it went and out came the plugs. All four showed some fuel residue, and yes you could also smell the faint wiff of starting fluid. So the one worry i have is the fuel was purchased in late dec. or early january If I recall correctly and theirs about 1/4 tank left in it... that shouldn't be long enough for the fuel to "go bad? Second, the spider intake was drained instorage but alass i have to admit that i never had the thought to remove the injectors and try to clean them. (all the coolant and air lines and intake airways have all been sprayed and scrubbed clean.... i'm wondering what "ah Hah!" I'll awake with in the morning that'll solve this nonstarting issue. cam's are set and ignition are right on, plugs are gonna be very dry in the morning as are the chambers as they are venting still... sooo anyone? What'd you suggest?

yeah well i had fun and it was as clean a job as i could do at the time....... had i to do it over again i'd definately use the remote changer as it does reduce the distance to the knobs from the shifter handle that's for sure. For example I have in the past accidentally turned the volume down when down shifting do to a knuckles position just off the shifter so alls good in the game of life i believe too.

ummm Samo, they will need "2" of those Metra kits..... for reasons that arevery visible on my dashboard images

so i slept on it and had a couple of ideas occur from Step-Dad's help! got the turbo-spidey tube on.. If its only to drive to the speed shop. and did a temp. fix on the throttle cable too....see? This a hint as to what it'll look like when done over at the speed shop doing the intercooler piping.

my two cents worth.... here is a link (i hope my bandwidth is still okay) to my geocities page with a few good images at 800X600(ish) window sized large images: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/ http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/Headunit_mod.html the pic's will goto the larger sized images i was speaking of.

go look ast my geocities website for images.... or the msn link for pictures of the lift install showing the underside as well... just more visible bolting points etc... suggestion? Awe just do it.... thoughts on the tranny swap... have the reciever front end lifted just high enough to slide it under and lift up in it.watch the tail driveshaft angle it'll drain out on ya! gearlube is yucky. as for the install? email or call on my expereinces... i'd surely recomend it.

you know you may want to put in a set of "landing lights along the driveway" and a tailhook for the aresting cable at the mouth of the driveway too.... :-p speaking of aerodynamics, on a slightly more sincere note: What are the odds you'd thought of "skinning" the entire belly of this beast? You ever thought of seeing how much friction/turbulance reduction can help out a car like that? Or any other kit/highly mod'ed car.? I mean it's one thing to make an airdam that goes all the way to the tranny's pan and cut out just enough to allow the front suspention to flex and move - not to forget the full turn to turn of the tires as well... but what do you think? Too dangerous? Not enough airflow to the engine? Then dusct the fresh air to the engine from the sides of the skin.... oh wait..... what are the odd's that was "preachin' to the choir?"

So in my armchair theoretical mode that means this list of do-dad's I'm fixin-ta be finished with oughtta push closer to 180hp/240ftlb? WOWsers.... I was only figuring about 45hp gain.... with the new set of heads(valves ground either 2 or 3 angles/sided not sure now(they were built for me some 3+ yrs ago)) new seals,oil and H2O pumps, spider intake, 2.5" exhaust from turbo-back w/2.5 in/out 3-way cat, turbosonic flow thru muffler; XT6 flywheel and new XT6 OEM clutch kit, either cut way open OEM airfilter or a cone (very soon), once its driven for a little while then I'll ut the man. boost controller back on and set it about 12-13PSI for the rest of this ole girl is stock materials. Oh; ummm and a mess of Moly-B grease on pieces and a Qt of lucas oil added to the mix. (cheesy grin) (sits back and watchs the xmas tree to see who launches first. (pun inforced)

Well here we have a fine "speed-bump" on the road to completing this pile of fun. Okay so the images are attempts to show the "speed-bumps" I'm dealing with. Spent several hours today trying to make the GL-10's throttle cable work in the SPider-intake's throttle attachment point. Nope! Ain't gonna happen unless you can do an ole fishing trick for a cable here.... Cutr the cable and place a fresh stopper on the end of the cable. NOT gonna happen *this time* .... The XT Turbo's intake is for what ever reason just a weeeeeeee bit to stiff for its own good. Looks like I may have to go buy some radiator hose to temporarily get the car outta the barn and down the road a ways to Bob and Jim who will be helping me put the finiahing touches on the intercooler placement. The other is the fact that the GL-10 cable is not gonna work so I guess I'm fishing for a XT turbo's? Or maybe just an Xt throttle cable for this spider setup. IT seems that the many, many monbths the setup spent in storage caused a lapse in memory and its throttle cable wasn't there.... only a little stub of the end was there.... like 4-5 inchs is all. (shrugs shoulders) "oh well"..... So any suggestions on both? or either? Side note looks like I'll be needing to buy a cone air filter....what model numbers have been purchased by ya'll? I have seen a multitude of them so just ask for part # and brand if that's okay by you? I figure that it'll be between $15- 65 for a cone to bolt up to the MAF; is that a safe yes? Lastly.... once this car is started then it's gonna be driven to see my uncle Bill(post stroke and heart attack - still not talking much) and the brand spankin new nephew MArcus Adam (I get to call him Marcus Arilious(sp) and my lil' brother-the dad- loves it ) LOL. then return to beaverton and then.... start packing to head back to tejas as soon as possible aftrer that visit and shakedown drive to southern mich. Background I have PM'd a couple folks related to this post before i had the pictures taken...

better late then never; I'm here with the 3" Ozified setup. I'll have a set of pug's on 'er when i get it back to tejas too.....

free bump (blatant subscribing)

(subscribes) free bump!

Ladies and Gent's I gotta give a standing ovation for this smooth discussion! (insert applause).... in the time i spent out there among the 18-wheeelers I truely felt my brain melt for a majority of the time.....which is Very sad and painful! Reason? Its called any adjective or adverb or even verb you want to *iron on* to a fellow hguman driving a vehicle(or big truck) they *are hard workling folks* and unfortunately i rare ran across anything exibiting intelligence close to the level on this thread.... (thumbs up) for : "01" (tangent)i too grew up on Catherine Bach (/tangent) (thumbs up X2) : self expression on multipul levels of thought by your handy work! (salute) it'd be an honor to meet alot of the folks on the board IRL. (gently bows out) (side note) I'm kinda partial to the coon tail on the top of a K40 CB antenna

currently doing just this...... found a standard turbo intake wiring harness off an 88-87 in a mich. J/Y. Now I am going to splice/butt-connect the spare gl-10 intake i currently had on the shelf with this J/Y intake harness and then plug it inline between the XT turbo (87.5? right) connectors and the GL-10 connectors under the coil. Blunt terms it'll be an extention cord!. Removed all tape and plastic covering. layed them both out flat and seperated the oil and water yellow lines; the knock,EGR and throttle body connectors; make sure the wires are ALL ACCOUNTED FOR! then I'll cut off the plugs and add in the needed wire extensions to balance it all out evenly. install the engine blah,blah,blah,blah... tedious but, patience is necessary.

ohhh me thinks I've stumbled onto a good topic for philosophizing(sp) : I was going off my step-dad's advice to use a particular inert and rough chemical composition of polycarbonate and that's why i spewcifically used the term he(Step-Dad) said, "Schedule 40" Or even schedule 80. His reaction to the replies caused him to wonder what variety of PVC was used and which variety of ABS as well? I went to google(I'm admitting that much here)[shrugs meekly] as i wanted to have some curiousity quenched -mentally speaking. So here is what I'm making reference to: Heat Deflection temperature of PVC versus ABS Because a "drainpipe" version of PVC will be rather weak in its rigidity of sidewall strenght. Wouldn't it? After all its usually stamped a rating of nominal temp. and rather small PSI rating at 74 degree's F. right? And then you have the PVC that's used for the hot water lines, well if they have PVC used for usage "under the bonnet" as this link makes reference to (Granted its a Nylon blen of PVC): http://www.polymer-age.co.uk/k98/kpolymer.htm [edit]yet at the same time i wandered around the google data for a update on PVC with regard to air pressure and petroleum froducts like oils and fuels.... The funny thing is the majority of the sites I'm wandering to (at this point in the evening) is they all have a therma barreir of approx 130-190 degrees F and a PSI max from 60-280.... go figure eh? And one site referenced ABS with a HDF of 223 degrees F at 264PSI and PVC(grey) was a skant 190 degrees at 264 PSI... go figure. So did i just shoot mytopic in the foot? Not really as these are but a few sites i've gleaned thru at this point.... I welcome the contiuned dialogue.[/edit] So if for some reason i'm smoking crack ... fine I'll put the pipe down(pun inforced) But, really what I'm really hoping is a good, thick, indepth dialogue on the use of and the logic both pro and con for the use of X versus Y. Are we up for this topic?(whispers to Skip "I believe so")

*subscribes to thread to see about the bushings*. :cool:

GRRRRRR (sorry but this is the short version... I got a 404error when i just tried to send this lengthy message so here is the short of it.... from initial purchase of this wagon (reference the geocities page showing the first mod's done to this wagon) and the MSN phot gallery of the lift install... It's either at the 6th or 7th stage of resurection (depending on a point of reference) so I'm trying to figure out a new name for her as Silver D/Ragon isn't truely fitting anymore as its got the XT6 S/R in it now. And now for the question: As an initial idea I'm using muffler steel pipe to fab-up the route and lengths of pipe for the FMIC and figured on using Schedule 40 PVC as it'll easily handle the small PSI increase from the factory turbo and the heat of an enginebay. I am going to use some metal pipe for the first few inches off the turbo but.... why not use the PVC for to -and-from the intercooler? Or for that matter whynot frm the air cleaner to the turbo too? If nothing else I'm able to to temp. (how long?) run it with the PVC it seems logical after all the airtemp.s in the piping shouldn't get anywhere above 200F. right? Lastly I'll be finally wandering back to tejas when she's unp and ready....sooooo about a month from now...i guess? later i'll do an update to my LJ too and bring things current with the knowledge gained from Bio-diesel and waste veggie oil conversions that I've had the benefit of learning from....

geee i have this wonderfully "just right sized" piece of 6X6 timber that sits on the jack for tilting the block and lifting it *just so* for alignment onto and sending the two bellhousing bolts thru the tranny; sure enough the engine mounts also usually just slide right into their holes... with little "persuasion*...but that is not the typical history for me.... Craven can atest to that last year and folks like Okami and Calebz can also atest to the fun in Texas....

for what its worth, a huge hug of "your alive and kicking" this is wonderful...albeit late... A dear friend of mine in Denton had a similar event occur with his Brat and he was also lucky to walk away.... (bows head for a moment) if your ever interested in resurrectionBrat2... that I might have a line on a gen1 that's been sitting at a friends place since 1996.... if your curious i ave a page dedicated to it on my geocities page.

{edited} i hit send twice ...oops.