3eyedwagon

Oh yeah, EA81 it! GO YOTES! WHITEOUT!

You should EJ it.

EJ it!

Try reading posts number 1 through 34. Should get you what you need to know.

By 1980 most states had incorporated a reflective coating over the paint. I can only speak as to the rules in Washington: In order to legally "restore" a plate from that era, you NEED to have that correct reflective material over the paint. That said, as long as you get your colors real close to what they are supposed to be, I doubt you will find many officers that will give you a hard time. In Washington, before 1972 or so, the plates had no reflective material. Because of that, as long as you have a steady hand, and can find close to correct colored paint, you can have at it.

Sorry to take your topic for a ride... I'm Mr. Thread Sabotage. I just like accuracy, especially on the rare occasion I know something that can help :lol:. You're right on the EA82 being a great car to learn on though. Pretty simple, and you can pretty much see exactly how everything works. NO hidden crap, or convoluted designs. Keep it up on the wrenching. I started with not much, and years later I can mess up a perfectly good car real quick.

*EDIT: I don't know why or how this re-posted twice like that... Nipper, you are correct. Most things old have become new again, as the design and execution of earlier vehicles are amazing. Torsion bar designs have been around forever, and various self leveling designs are not as new as many people think. The Acme thread jackshaft lift designs always intrigue me, and they are archaic. Most people don't realize that car phones were around pre-war, just obviously not the norm. The lack of longevity of early autos wasn't due to poor design or construction, just history itself. The interstate system hasn't been around very long, and earlier roads were absolute garbage. Early cars saw conditions far far worse than todays. Put many of todays cars in the same situation, and I would suspect they wouldn't last very long. A funny example of prior technology is the coil sprung trailing arm design. For altered suspensions the air bag, or coil spring with trailing arms and a panhard bar, or a complete 4 link is thought to be the tops, and high end technology. Look back in automotive history, and you will find that the trailing arm with panhard bar design has been around for a long time. Chevrolet used it on their pickups for awhile before deciding it was BETTER than what they needed, and moved away from it.... Interesting stuff.

Yup, early hydraulic drums, not many had dual sets of shoes. Only a mechanical operating system as a backup to the failure prone hydraulics, but, they utilize the same shoes. And yes, the small shoes inside the center hub of the disc is a slick setup.

Not necessarily different shoes, just a different mechanism to operate the same set of shoes in the event that the hydraulic system failed. You won't find many early brake systems with dual sets of shoes, just a mechanical backup to operate the shoes. The most common problem was the failure of the single circuit master cylinder resulting in the loss of braking at all 4 wheels. With an emergency brake you had a shot at getting it stopped. With the improvement of braking systems the name just slowly changed to parking brake. Most of them still operate in the exact same fashion.

Irony, thine name is location.:-p The answer, YES. Use search, and the FAQ. The info is all out there for the taking. Most of the originators are a short drive from you.... Go get it.

Abrasive disc on an orbital is how most of the pros do it.

^If you are going to wheel, you are going to break things. It's just the way it is. So, in short, no.

Do you have any AutoCAD prints you could send me?

^ I hear you, I don't know what I'd do with a car that didn't have some sort of light on. That is, of the cars I own that actually have idiot lights.

That's why they make small speed part stickers.....

I'm the wrong cat to ask for this, but, I want to say I've seen some 205/55s on non lifted gen3s before. It really all depends on how much rubbing you can tolerate, and cutting you are willing to do. I think OneEye has run 205/55s on stock gen3s with little to no trimming, and little to no rubbing. He may be the guy to ask, as he has had a bazillion tire combos on different sizes of lifts. You will not find those 205s in aggressive AT or MT treads though if that is what you are looking for. They do look good with a bit more tire under them though, they kind of get that slot-car look.

Yeah, 225 75 is a lot of tire with no lift. You will probably have to do some serious bashing. I had narrow 27"s mounted on Mazda 14" 6lugs on a 2" lifted car, and had to do some beating. NO lift = more beating.

Lug studs come with a knurl at the bottom, when purchasing the studs you should be informed on the diameter of that knurl, or you can use a caliper to measure them. Purchase a drill bit of a size that will leave a bit of meat for that knurl to grab in to. You want a drill bit a little smaller than that knurl size. You then drive the lug nut in to place, and the knurl keeps it from spinning. In the event that you drill too large of a hole for the knurl to work, a few small tack welds will do the same trick. As for the wheels, it all depends on backspacing, and what tires are on them. There are stickys in the offroad section with pictures of various rim/tire/lift combos that should help you out immensely. As for the spare tire carrier, yes, tons of roof racks have been adapted. Just go through the offroad section, and you can see dozens of examples. Good luck.

Nothing personal man, this stuff has just been answered MANY MANY MANY times. To some of the people on here it kind of ends up like Groundhogs Day.

Hey, guess what! You are in luck. I'm living over on Thomas Rd. in Phx, and I can meet you to point at what you need to do. I've never done an Impreza, but, it can't be that complicated. Unfortunately, my shop wouldn't fit it the trunk of my Buick, but, you could make a cut list, and have a shop cut/drill what you need. I also didn't bring any Metric tools since I'll be working on Amurrrican cars. I'd help you if I had more equipment, and space, but, I can help you figure what you need to do.

OMG, are you sure that's safe?!?

Yeah, and clutches NEVER fail....... Making an auto survive offroad is just different technique. Keep that fluid cool, and the torque converter will be much happier. As for how an auto drives offroad, modifications can be made to make them respond differently. Trans brakes, and a stall converters correctly configured (A VERY RARE THING) for the engine's power band make a world of difference in how an auto drives. As for this free stuff: can't believe nobody wants to get an EA82 Dual Range, and jump all over this deal.

Napa Balkamp heater cores are garbage. Just figured I'd let you know Jeff. And you even know where my brand loyalty is... just saying, if you get a Napa one, keep the receipt, odds are good you'll be back in there soon.

Jeff, I'll drop of my remaining 2" blocks at your place for this deal. Those, and a set of lengthened struts will be another kit... Some of you new guys should jump on this. Pick up a cheap dual range car, and go have some fun.

I have (2) Ball Joint, High Pinion Dana 60s that I'm not in need of. I've been trying to sell them as sets with the matching rears, and any needed drivetrain components. If you get serious let me know, I might be convinced to sell just a front, and send the rest to the crusher. They are in complete trucks. Keep it in mind, or spread the word if you know anyone in serious need.