3eyedwagon

You're right, most of the push buttons are 3.7 in the diff. That also means you'd need to find a matching rear differential. Not rare by any means, but, it is something else you would HAVE to do. Your stock diff right now is 3.9, and you can't mix that with the 3.7 front diff, and use it. I truthfully wouldn't worry about going for different diff gear ratios. The 3.9 gears with a 5th gear would be plenty enough for the interstate. Plus you'd still have enough low end oomph to creep if you needed. One thing you need to take into consideration is that you'll need to change the driveline, or have one made to fit. The ea82 trans is shorter. It is also bigger, which is important to you as you have no lift. Some modification to the trans tunnel will be necessary without a lift. Maybe now you are beginning to see why I said leave the 4 spd in it.

So, can you elaborate then on what you meant by "getting a 5spd push button for winter driving"? That car is about as good as it's going to get for winter driving. The 5speed will only help above 60mph or so. In winter conditions, above 60mph it doesn't matter if you have 80wheel drive. All the wheels in the world turning won't help you stay on the road at speed. You aren't going to be any better off with a 5spd push button than the Hi/Low for ANY driving conditions other than freeway commuting. I'd leave the car exactly as it is. If it is in decent condition, has been properly maintained, and driven by someone competent; it can outhandle pretty much any tires you'll throw on it. My hatch had a really good set of Toyo's on it, and in BONE STOCK stance it would drive far beyond the capabilty of the tires.

Unless you have it lifted or something; you shouldn't really be seeing much for camber problems. If it is stock, and you have bad camber; you have other problems causing this. Check to see if your stock struts (on the car) have adjusters, and if so, where they are adjusted to. Alot of times people crank up the adjusters for a little more ground clearance, and that will give a very slight camber problem. Also, why are you thinking of swapping in a crappy push button 5 speed for winter driving? Unless you REALLY need the 5th gear, it would be pointless. And if you DO really need a 5th gear: Why not go with a 5spd Dual Range? That way you have the best of both worlds. It's still a linkage operated 4wd system, and you'd have the 5th gear. It sounds to me like you are under some impression that the Dual Ranges can't be driven in 4wd on the highway or something. If that is the case: You have been misled, or are wrong. The Dual Range transmissions can drive on the highway no problem at all. In other words, your 4wd 4 spd will work just fine for winter driving. Just pop it in 4 Hi when the snow hits, and away you go. There are alot of people here that will tell you stories about how you can shift one into 4wd at over 35mph. I know I've done so a few times without problem. I'd just avoid having it in 4wd and making tight circles on dry pavement. Other than that; It'll be fine.

The ones on your Dakota "had to go to the correct cylinder" because they had to reach each plug correctly. If you mix them up on a v8 you'll often end up with some that don't reach, and others too long for where they are. There weren't special wires for a certain cylinder, just ones cut to the length to reach THAT spark plug. Other than that, it doesn't matter. Just route them the best you can in relation to which length is needed to reach from the distributor to the plugs. That's why they make them different lengths, and not all just really long. That way you don't end up with a pile of excess plug wire sitting on top of the air cleaner.

235/70/15s CAN fit with a 2" lift, but, as has been said 1,000,000 times here: It all depends on how much hammering you are willing to do. If you aren't will to hammer the wheel wells front/rear, and don't want ANY rubbing; you cannot fit them on a 2" lift. I wouldn't waste the money on a 5 lug when drilling the 6 lug wheels is so easy.

If this is a street driven car, you'll want to keep an eye on the bottom of those struts. If they get oily around the eyelet, your struts are dead. Where you cut the eyelet off is a natural weak point now, and the oil inside the struts will sometimes leak out the bottom of the strut where the factory plug welds were made. You can see the grain of the steel when you cut the eyelet off, and I often make a few tacks around the bottom, with the eyelet off, to prevent leaking. Once that oil is gone; you basically have a spring on a stick. Hope yours works well.

Drop them off in Mt. Vernon, and I'll do them for you for $60 plus materials. Then I'll drop them back off in Mt. Vernon for you to pick up another day. I can do it in no time, but, I doubt you want to drive to where I live. Not to try to give you a sales pitch or anything, but, I wouldn't just let any person fly at this half***ed. Chances are you'll end up with blown struts, and nothing to show for it. The eyelets have to be cut off carefully, and the welding needs to be done right. Otherwise you'll end up with leaky crooked junk struts. I know this because I had to learn where to cut them on my first set. I've done alot of them since then. There are some tricks to it that people won't know their first time out. Other than that, I can do it in about an hour, and I can find an hour to do it pretty much any time.

EA81 it!!! Then it will sound how a Subaru should, in addition to the slightly less common ea81 lifter problems.

I guess this is one of those jobs where being a fat*** comes in kinda handy!!! :lol::lol: I found this task pretty easy.

Those bolts don't really look too long. They should go in man. It takes some wiggling, and snaking around to get them in there, but, it can be done. You can grind the tacks off, and take the bolts out, but like I said earlier; no matter how you do it, one part of this is going to be hard. It's either struggle with this, or struggle with something else depending on how you do it.

Do you have pictures of your blocks?

You can do it with the blocks you have. It's been done multiple times before, so, unless your Subaru is somehow special; it can be done again. You need to use a long prybar to pry down on the hub while you fish the blocks in. I did it just by standing on the hub with one foot. It takes alot of downward force, but, any way you do this, at some point putting something back together is going to be tough. Putting the ball joint back in will be tight, and if you remove something else, then that may ease putting the balljoint back in, but, putting that back together will be hard. My point is that somewhere along the line it's going to take alot of force to put this back together. I'd just deal with manipulating those blocks in, and cursing as you try to get the ball joint back in. AND DISCONNECT THE SWAY BAR. I know I mentioned this about a dozen times in all the PMs you sent me, but, in case you didn't get it then: YOU NEED TO DISCONNECT THE SWAY BAR. If it is not disconnected; you may as well head back in the house. Cut it, take it off, do whatever you need to to get it out of your way. It makes this job impossible. I see you have it disconnected in the pic, but, make sure to do the other side too.

You forgot to hook something up, or you hooked something up wrong. or maybe you put the head gaskets on backwards.

BAZINGA!!!

^ There are alot of EA82s with D/Rs behind them turning alot more than 27" tires. Alot of the NWWO cars are EA82s, and they all have bigger tires than 27". Most of them have 29s, and a few run 30s around on the street. An EA82 with a D/R will turn 27s just fine.

Way to put stupid effing illegal lights on a car that can NEVER outdrive the stock ones that, by the way, has a fricking blown head gasket. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: Priorities man. You and Cody need to seriously open a shop, or, start working for Will Castro. I swear you'd both try to put a stereo system in a car with flat tires, and dead battery

For a third gen wagon? Maybe. I'm used to dealing with heavier rigs, soooo... 1/8" would probably do it. BUT, all that being said; I personally wouldn't chance it. Winching is one of those times you don't want to be worrying about what is going to snap. Plus there is so much potential for things to get seriously broken under alot of force, that I just don't think a little convenience is worth chancing it. I'd go 1/4" personally. It all REALLY depends on how the winch is mounted as well. Some pics would help alot so we could see HOW the force is being exherted....

^ I hear you there. Sometimes nuts just back off. My spray coupe has (8) 3/4 lug nuts hold on duals. Every time I have the wheel off I hammer them bastards back home with my rattle gun (not a crappy one either), then lean hard on them with a 3' breaker bar, and I'm not a little guy. Even if stuff is tight, longterm vibrations, and rough terrain can just loosen it. I know that's exactly the case with what happened to me. I got real lucky on that one, same as you. Now I just check them on my spray coupe every week. I'm not chancing that again.

I would say dam noobs for witch doctoring old threads, but, SakoT has been around awhile... You got me good Sako

You're probably right. I'd hate for you to catch a hard time, see that wheeling is more than driving through mud puddles, and ruin your opinion of the sport. As far as pictures; other people have hands. They can operate the camera the same as you. They put the magic button in the same place ON ALL OF THEM. Hand your camera off, and ask them to get some snaps as you go through stuff. Most all of the pics from Walker are taken by the driver or passenger getting out, and taking pics of other peoples cars as they go through stuff.

This same misadventure happened to me in my spray coupe two seasons back. The problem is that my spray coupe (95 GMC) weighs in at a little over 14,000 lbs, and it does alllll of its miles offroad. The rear lugnuts wandered off the duals on the backside of Lyman ridge here in Skagit county. Needless to say with 7,000 pounds on her back, it takes the studs out when that happens. I go so slow in that thing (4mph tops), and it's so noisy that you just don't hear/feel stuff like that happening. I was around 20 miles from any sort of pavement. Had to walk about 5 miles or so to get a cell signal. I got some lug studs, and nuts brought up, and had her going again in about 5 hours. I guess the good part is that I wasn't around any people, but, the payload that coupe hauls usually adds a little stress to any situation. Sounds like you guys lucked out to have it outta there so quickly...

Seriously dude, That's the best you could conjure up? How about this; get a job. Then you can afford enough quality parts to put together a decent car, go exotic places like Walker Valley, gain some life experience, and become a decent wheeler. Then you won't have to make worthless, pictureless threads that get you ridicule from aholes like me. Money is a tough subject for most people, but, you don't hear us complaining or asking others for money to go wheel. Either man up, and make it on your own, or don't complain if you can't. You'll find yourself alot better off in the long run by doing either of those.

If loading an offroad Subaru with large tires (a well known high geared, poor powered vehicle) on a "tall trailer" with "short ramps", why in the heck were you trying to "crawl up it in FWD"? And more importantly; if a clutch fries in FWD "crawling up a ramp"; what in the hell makes you think putting it in 4wd is going to do to it? An extra set of tires to spin is doubling the stress on the clutch. A clutch spinning BEFORE THE TIRES DO in FWD is a good sign the clutch is on its' way out. You asked a question about our Shoofly. I answered it. It is to keep out those who are incompetent/unskilled/unprepared/incapable out. It exists to prevent those people from getting in the way of, or tarnishing the reputation of those who are prepared/competent etc. From what I've read of your wheeling exploits, from posts that YOU'VE created, the Shoofly exists to keep you, and exactly you from going up, getting in peoples way when your stuff breaks, and giving those that drive vehicles with the same badge on the front as yours a bad name. Given, we've all had stuff break when wheeling, but, your reputation based on stories written from your own account make me happy that things like the Shoofly exist. If you don't like the fact that those stupid stories have earned you a reputation as someone giving the hobby a bad name, you have two choices: A: Get your stuff together, stop half ***ing it, and learn how to wheel. B: Don't tell stories about things like frying your clutch loading it on a trailer, and then going wheeling anyways, "urban wheeling", constantly getting your car wet because you can't realize Subaru/Submarine aren't interchangeable, THEN COMPLAINING ABOUT IT, and running around without common sense things like registration/title in a car that is begging to be impounded. Frankly, if you don't like my answer; you can piss off. P.S., You are always welcome to come over, and try out our shoofly. It's open to the public. If you do manage to get past it; when you do break down, and have to get yanked off the trail, please be certain to tell everyone you aren't part of NWWO. Those guys already catch enough crap up there without doing anything wrong. Have a good day.

Dooood! You should paint half of it bloomadabadeeyabada, and just leave it that way forever. Oh, and slap a shopping cart handle on the trunk lid too! :lol::lol::lol::lol:

It's called a ShooFly. It is made to be driven around. It exists to keep incapable vehicles from entering, and then promptly breaking down, causing environmental problems, and inconveniencing people who are prepared. So basically, it is made for people who load their cars on trailers with burnt up clutches, and then try to take them wheeling. That way they can't get out into the real stuff, break down, and cause problems for everyone else by being unprepared, or incompetent. It works, and everywhere should have one. Nobody should be behind that gate other than trail rigs, dirtbikes, fourwheelers, DNR workers, or timber company employees. The first 3 use the ShooFly, the DNR, and loggers/foresters use the gate. It also prevents abandoned vehicles, and garbage dumping.