3eyedwagon

A 1 1/8" Drill bit works pretty good for a countersink of that size. Can't give specifics on angles, as I don't know what the stock Subaru lugnuts are. However, for the most part; I've seen VERY FEW wheels that people have bothered to countersink. I don't know of any countersunk wheels on the wheelers around here. They are all staying on the cars pretty well though.

You don't need a 6 lug conversion. It is a definite option, however, there are ALOT of people that just redrill the 6 lug rim. That requires NO modification to the car itself, and you can switch straight back to 4x140 rims with no lug stud removal. Just find a spare Subaru hub and knock two opposing studs out. Use the remaining two to bolt the hub to a six lug wheel. This acts as a guide for drilling two new holes in the wheel, making it a 4x140. There are a bunch of posts around here explaining it more in depth. The only problem you may encounter is that tire shops won't want to mount/dismount the wheels on your car. So you may have to remove the wheels and take them into a tire shop. It's a liability issue for them. However, Drilled wheels have been used on some of the hardest wheeled Subarus around, and I haven't seen many problems. Really any now that I think of it. Sure the 6 lugs would be stronger. But, it's been proven that it isn't at all necessary. Good luck to you on whatever you decide.

It's been done in the past, but, be advised; the 15" spare rims are incredibly thin, and not made to be beating around with larger tires on them. They were designed to be light, and only used as a short distance spare. So, yes it CAN be done. However, nobody around here really does it anymore. The more popular thing to do is get a set of 15" 6 lug Chevy/Toyota half ton wheels and redrill them. The info on that can be found by searching 6 lug wheels. Or find a set of 15" Puegot wheels. However, the 6 lug wheels are often FAR cheaper due to more supply than demand.

I've seen modified TIG torches used in a production based setup. Due to the extremely low melting point of plastics (by welding standards) it doesn't take much amperage from the TIG machine to work. We played around with it a little in college. Kinda neat knowing that it is out there and possible. There's really multiple ways to do it since all you are doing is directing heat. Not something a guy will use every day around here, but amusing none the less.

Cheap, and Quick? Sell your Impreza, and buy a Fox body Mustang. And that's coming from a die hard GM guy. It really depends on how quick you are looking to go. You could go alot quicker for ALOT cheaper with nearly anything American, V8, and RWD. That's not to say that you can't run well in your Impreza, the question is just, at what cost? You may very well ruin what you love about it on the way to making it very quick. Then the fact remains you would have been better off spending that money on a devoted 1/4 mile car, and would probably still be quicker. :-\ Rob, you can all them 4000 lb pieces of junk all you want.... I'll drag you any day with any of my "junk". And just FYI. The AMX we are working on weighs about the same as a 3rd gen wagon. My Javelin weighs only a few pounds more. Both are full of seats, sound deadening, and all the trim. Detroit muscle being heavy compared to modern cars is a common mis-conception. Alot of them are lighter, because they aren't full of modern BS electronics, and other unnecessary crap. Sure there were some heavy cars around in the 60s/70s but we have managed to get them just as heavy again here recently. So, say you still have your heart set on running 15s with your Impreza. Do anything you can to move more air. Improve your intake, and exhaust. Even cheap improvements can make a little more power. A good high flow air filter. Buying or making a cold air intake. Decreasing exhaust restriction (to a certain extent). And the oh so important simple things like having a decent tune-up on it from the get go. Fresh oil helps too. That's about as good as you'll get for cheap or free.

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108509 I have one, same year, excellent condition. Aside from being dirty, as stated, it's in GREAT shape. It's for sale, for cheap. Need the space. Make me an offer! Someone should come get it, and then they could be the envy of everyone.

Montana Road Trip? Not my first choice for a shake down on a freshly lifted vehicle. Especially a Subaru. But hey, have fun and good luck with that! Be sure to check the bolts every stop so you don't accidently wipe out an innocent sagebrush family....

Cubic inch displacement X Maximum RPM X Volumetric Efficiency (a street engine is about 80%) / 3456 = CFM needed 350 CID x 6600 RPM X 0.80 volumetric efficiency / 3456 = 534 cfm needed. That is the math for a basic small block chevy in semi-stock form, and what it needs carb wise to be efficient. Do the math on your combination, and decide for yourself. And just for the record; most people tend to over carb the bejeebus out of their motors. And another thing; A K&N air filter, and a set of expensive spark plugs does not make your engine a "race" engine. The volumetric efficiency doesn't increase to 100% by putting some flowmaster stickers on the window. And pretending the motor will spin another 3000 rpm more than it realisticly will, or will normally see isn't going to benefit you either. Use the formula honestly for best results.

Yohn, 1/8" walled 2" x 2" square tubing linking those blocks together would go a LONG ways to strengthening the situation you have there. Especially if you leave the motor mount blocks facing parrallel with the tires as you have them now. My 1/8" blocks face perpendicular to the tires, and are tied together with pipe. The pipe isn't of any matter, but the blocks turned sideways (like on my car) would actually be weaker considering most shear force is going to be coming from the front or rear of the block, and not the side. Leave the blocks facing forwards like you have them now, turn a few of the trans crossmember blocks so they can be linked as well. Do some measurements, and cut some link material out of whatever you have handy. 1/8" walled 2" x 2" tubing will be great. It will match up nicely. I can't say that it will never crush, but, I beat my car until it doesn't move anymore, and none of my blocks did. Is it as ideal as 1/4" walled material? No, probably not. But, there is a big difference between discussing theories and actually wheeling. I say we skip the BS, and actually get you back to wheeling. Just keep an eye on them after each trip. If they do crush, we have the technology to replace them.....

You just need to get "Rodriguez" across the windshield in old english chrome vinyl..... sorry, couldn't help it....

Yohn, Get some 2 x 2 square tubing and link them together. They will be plenty strong if they are linked. You will have to grind some of that silly paint off, but, oh well. Any light welder will link do it just fine. A little measuring, and that sawzall will have all the pieces done in no time. Linking those blocks together increases their capabilities big time.

Just to throw some more fuel on the fire: About 80% (or more) of the guys that ACTUALLY WHEEL nowadays are running EA82 wagons. Not all of them have EA82s in them, but, most of them are EA82 bodies. Not talking crap about the EA81s, as they are actually what I prefer BUT, it is hard to ignore the fact that MOST of the vehicles seen on the trails these days are EA82 bodys, and of them; most are wagons. Saying that an EA81 hatch is the best/only solution is simply stupid. Take a look at any of the recent photos of wheeling trips. They are all littered with EA82 wagons, and a few scattered sedans, or hatches. Now count the EA81 hatchbacks. Oh that's right. There are like 3 around here that still run and drive, and those mostly sit at home. I am not at all discounting the ability of the EA81 hatchback, as I've seen some do some absolutely amazing things. Especially once the roof has been cut off. I am simply pointing out the relevance of the EA82 body. Simply put; the days of hatchback wheeling trips are over. Time has been the enemy of the EA81 hatchback. Now it costs too much for one in decent shape for most people to beat on it. That eliminates a huge number of them for wheeling, and the rest have mostly been pounded into the ground. The EA82s are the new EA81. Still plentiful enough to be had for cheap, and parts are lying all over the place. As to say it takes a bunch of lift to make an EA82 off road capable... Once again; Ignorance. There are numerous examples of 2" suspension lifted EA82 wagons that wheel regularly in very tough conditions. They seem to do JUST FINE. I can totally understand the desire to have an EA81 hatch, as they are simply cool. But, the people that want to say that the hatch is the only way to go are probably saying it for a reason. They probably have one out back right now that they don't wheel. It strokes their ego to think that it is the only hot machine around. Ultimately, it is about whatever machine meets your needs, and actually gets you out on the trail. If an EA82 wagon does it, perfect. If it's an EA81 hatch, sweet. Either way, go for it. Adapt it to whatever suits you best, and get your butt on the trail.

I'll let the NWWO threads speak for themselves on if these guys wheel hard enough. Come up to Walker sometime, and check out how we bounce around in puddles. Linking the blocks should really be done anyways. It's another 10 minutes of work that spreads the stress out immensely. I have no doubt that you've seen thin blocks fold. Heck, I've seen 1/4" blocks fold, but, it doesn't mean the person that originally set it up had any clue what they were doing. I'd rather have an intelligent design and execution than just throwing a bunch of thick steel at it and hoping it will be strong.

My lift has 1/8" wall 2"x4" blocks. I beat it until the steering linkage gave up. Yes, the steering linkage. No bent or broken blocks. If linked properly, you just don't need 1/4" material. Would it be stronger? Sure. Can either lift be bent just the same in some catastrophic ****-up. Yup. I'd wager he'll be just fine with the material he used.

Got your fronts done. Just need straps for the rear. Haven't done a rear of that style in awhile so, I didn't have the materials. Shouldn't be long though.

You should take along a mid 1990s Buick Roadmaster in case you decide you'd like to make it anywhere in comfort, style, and a timely manner. HA! P.S.: You can leave the 235s on the roadmaster...

Glad to see it out under its' own power. That thing will definitely turn some heads everywhere it goes. I say we do some proposterous and annoying green flames now.....

Soooooo, you dealt with T-Roy??? HAND/FACE sorry man.

POT TO KETTLE: Can you read me Kettle. This is pot. I REPEAT: POT TO KETTLE.

Cool. Should be "sturdy". I'm gonna go cut some steel. I'll talk to you Wednesday. It should be mobile by then right? We can drive it up the stairs at the court house...

^ Where the trussing wrapped around the bottom of the eye? I just noticed it in the picture. That was the weakest point I was worried about. :-\ Should still be fine.

Looks like they worked out ok. Did they give you any troubles putting them in? Looks pretty level.

Dude, set down the Cool-Aid and back away from the cup. The US has been using home-made cops cars since cars the beginning. It's because we make the best vehicle available for the job that needs to be done. Look around at other countries as well. They each utilize the best equipment for their unique situations. A small 4 cylinder car just wouldn't be practical for patrol work here, no matter how much you want to believe in your conspiracy theories. Exhibit A: Chevrolet haulted US sales of my beloved Caprice in 1996, citing that they simply weren't making enough on each unit to continue production/sales within the US. Yet the nameplate has continued on elsewhere to a very happy audience. It's all about having the right tool for the job. Countries in which long distance travel while moving large ammounts of personel, and equipment will continue to utilize the best tool for THAT job. In most cases; that will continue to be a large, high displacement, RWD American designed platform. Countries that don't need to move as many people, or as much equipment will continue to utilize the best tool for their needs. A simple example is most European police cars. Smaller platforms, with smaller displacement engines, better handling, and narrower shoulders better suited for the tight quarters that are most European cities. Until someone can produce a vehicle which rival the Ford Crown Vic, or the Dodge Charger/Magnum line; those two will continue to dominate the police business within the US. You can hate on them all you want, but, any clue and a quick look around will reveal that there aren't really any cars better suited for the job. There was talk of the Caprice returning on the Pontiac G8 platform. Words which made me giddy like a school girl for about a week. Sadly that plan was shortlived, and the number crunchers axed the idea. As much as I love GMs, even the Impala is a pretty crappy patrol car. It has to be utilized in the right situation, and that is why you mostly see them assigned to detectives, and heavily urban situations where a "paddy wagon" is readily available. The rural routes will continue to be dominated by the big RWD cars, and police officers who can actually drive them. EVOC courses teach you alot.

I hate to break it to you guys, but, the reality is that patrol work requires incredibly durable, capable, and often large-ish vehicles. As much as you'd all like to see a WRX patrol car, I can tell you; it would suck as a cop car. Plain and simple. You need to take in to account the ammount of crap the average police officer hauls around. Trust me when I tell you that there is ALOT more to it than you think. Hauling all that stuff around just isn't going to happen in pretty much any import. Now load that import with all the crap, and try to make it go fast. No dice. Like the ancient proverb goes; There's no replacement for displacement. I don't care what your opinion is about the Ford, Dodge, or Chevrolet cop cars. The fact remains is that most all of you out there stop when you see one, and those who don't rarely get away. Even with your all wheel drive. Which brings me to my next point. Cops don't need AWD cars, because for the most part, COPS CAN ACTUALLY DRIVE. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. IN THE US AWD is luxury, not a necessity. If you think of AWD as the latter; you probably should have your license revoked. There is a very small percentage of the US that has snow year round, thusly, AWD is wasteful. Instead of wasting that money, we do the right thing here and actually extensively teach our officers how to drive VERY WELL. That is why most of them can do things with a RWD 300hp sled that the majority of drivers can't do with all the tires in the world turning. I'd rather spend the money training cops to perform well than giving them AWD and telling them to turn their brains off. The reality is that with their training; they can still perform exceptionally well in ALL weather conditions despite the proposed disadvantages of RWD. Finally, so long as American auto manufacturers can continue to make a reasonably well designed and executed patrol vehicle; I would be FURIOUS to see foreign patrol cars. Why should our government ship our money out of the US for cars doing jobs here in the US. It already pisses me off enough to see Nissans, and Toyotas used in government positions when there are American made vehicles that can fill that same position. The dollars spent on those vehicles could potentially employ people here. If the car is similar; why would you ever choose anything else?

Check the engine temp sensor, and its' plug. Improper resistance readings will cause the ECU to load the cylinders full of fuel. I've seen a couple hydrolocked engines caused by this.