3eyedwagon

Depending on your ammount of lift; I have a pretty nice set of Bias Ply tires on 14" Mazda rims. They measure out to about 27.5 or 28", and have ALOT of tread on them. They are a great multipurpose tire. The rims have been painted black, and they are BB balanced. Great setup for on road, and wheeling. $150 for the set of 4. Plus White Walls get the chicks.... I can find a pic of them on here if you're interested.

^ No need to get your panties in a bunch Eric.

I suggest you all chip in 10-20 dollars, and you can buy my wagon. Then the winner can keep it for the prize. Tada.

I'm Will. I'm 3eyedwagon named after my 1982 wagon. I'm the fat, cocky, arrogant, loveable one. Jeff is OneEye after his one working eyeball. Jeff is only chubby, but, not cocky or arrogant, and only a little loveable. :lol:

If the lifts aren't made by the competitors, wouldn't that make it a "Bolt-On Off"?

I've got a pretty mint 84 T-wagon that probably wouldn't mind being shipped to much. Stock white with a REALLY nice blue interior. It has a rebuilt EA81T sitting in the back of it awaiting install for someone with time. Needs a title hunted up, but, it's clear. Let me know if you're interested. I'll probably be including it in a FOR SALE thread here fairly shortly.

Surprisingly, I wasn't knocking the ea82 for its' t belts. Anyone who has the gumption to go race one would probably know enough that they could just replace t belts quickly anyways, and only lose a little time on the track. I just know they'd get too hot too quick, and probably go pop. Even with improved cooling, I just don't think they'd handle a "race" setting like an ea81 would. Even if they can rev higher, and have more HP; I don't think they can hold the rev as reliably.

OMG! The engine wouldn't seperate from transmission?!?!? Geez, I had no idea. I'm sure if we'd all known that we wouldn't have been so tough on you. Why, if pulling a transmission had ever presented a problem to any of the rest of us I'm sure we all would have just curled up in a ball and wept ourselves to sleep. I'll send you a clue. Things are tough when you don't know how to do them. It's going to be that way with pretty much everything until you actually go DO IT a couple of times. Pretty much everyone here that has actually ever attempted anything has had a few situations where something just didn't want to cooperate. It's called gaining experience, and you obviously have YEARS of gaining ahead of you. Sitting on the internet asking for tips isn't going to prepare you for the real life situations that you are going to encounter. Sorry, but, you can ask all the stupid questions you want, and wait like a hungry little birdy with your mouth open for people to feed you answers. That will never make you capable of a damn thing. The sooner you learn that, the better. Even worse than this is the fact that you can't even research the answers yourself. Open the search box, and just start trying different crap. There are people in this world that have made damn good livings not by knowing how to do things, but, by knowing how to find information on how to do those things. You seem to have neither skill in spades. At some point you are going to have to learn one of them.

Do you ever really know what you are going to do, or are you just so obsessed with making new posts that your conscience can't get a word in edgewise? Sometime you should try listening to all of those other voices rambling in your head. One of them might know something. If the throwout bearing is "4 days out"; you aren't going to "yank the 4 speed out and put in a 5 speed "TOMARROW"". Not with a new throwout bearing anyways. Other than that, my only advice is to DO IT. You will learn all the stuff you want to know once you have the old one out, and are trying to put the new one in. I promise.

I drove a 383 powered 68 Chevrolet Nova for two winters while in high school, and another two after graduation. It was a legitimate high 11 second car on drag radials, and had a heinously evil stall converter. During the winter it wore a set of slightly burn-out worn BFG Radial TAs. I drove it because it had the worst paint of the cars I owned at the time, and the gravel around here is a little tough on paint. I live about 25 miles from Mt. Baker, and on a pass that closes in the winter due to the inability to handle the ammount of snow that falls. I am not superman. I just learned how my right foot works, and how the car drove. If I can do it, I'm betting alot of people can. People SOMEHOW managed to get around in the 50s, 60s, and 70s when all that was available were heavy powerful rear wheel drive cars. You can't tell me that the human race is just devolving that quickly... There's just alot more idiots I guess.

All of you are acting like this is some sort of governement plot to destroy our cars. The fact is that this wouldn't be happening if people didn't complain so much about last winter. The brilliant folks of Seattle even ditched their mayor over the deal. Not that he didn't deserve it for other reasons, but, the snow from last winter was a HUGE part of it. This isn't a problem with the DOT, or THE STATE. It's a problem with ignorant, incompetent, and dangerous drivers that frankly shouldn't be on the road. People whined all last winter because their Subaru's, or Rav4's couldn't make it into the Starbucks parking lot. About 4 minutes of watching ANY news coverage would show all of you that it wasn't a problem with the conditions. It was a classic problem caused by MORONS. I don't know how many clips of FWD, or AWD cars just getting the old Go pedal nailed to the floor I saw. It doesn't matter how many people are pushing if you can't drive the damn car. "News story" after "news story" of idiots mashing pedals, and spinning on small hills compelled the stupid majority that it was a disaster, and we needed a major revamp of how a 3" snowfall is handled. Don't get pissed at the DOT, even though most of them probably do deserve it just for being who they are. Either way, they are just doing what the vocal majority tells them needs to be done. In this case that's make it so they can pilot their Audi's around while staring at the navigation screen without hitting a patch of ice, and actually having to work that POS overly complicated AWD system. God forbid anyone have to take their hands off their triple Chai non fat half calf McDipS*** to actually drive their cars.

^ I'm gonna stick with actual LAW here. Enough whining will get a governement worker to do pretty much anything, after all; most of them are community college dropouts that deal with idiots all day. The law however is that a vehicle cannot be gifted twice consecutively. I'm gonna go with the law as far as something being attainable predictably, and consistently. Gifting a Vehicle http://www.dmv.org/wa-washington/title-transfers.php If you're giving a vehicle as a gift, whether to a family member or friend, you need to: Have the giver sign off in the seller’s area of the title, noting mileage if the car’s 10 years old or newer. Have the giver provide verification that the vehicle's sales tax has been paid if you have owned the car less than seven years, so you won’t have to pay tax again. Have the giver provide a "Letter of Gift" stating his intent along with the vehicle's description, your name, your signature, and the date Take all of this evidence to a vehicle licensing office and complete a Vehicle Certificate of Ownership Application. There is no use tax due on gifts. Pay a title transfer fee of $15.50, plus any other fees that might be due at registration. Contact the office to find out the exact cost and whether you need more documentation. The vehicle can only be given as a gift every other time it passes hands.

^ It can't be done twice consecutively. Other than that, it's ok.

I agree with you completely. But, that's the thing about these alternators. They have voltage sensing. Nobody chooses to use it. That's not the alternators fault. It's just so easy to hook up the one wire and run with it. They all have 3 wire hookups, but they only need the one "excitor" wire to take off and charge. Look at what these alternators originally came on, and you'll see that they probably ran more electronics than most cars today. Given, those electronics weren't nearly as advanced as todays electronics with needs for ranges of voltages, etc., but, they can run ALOT of stuff.

I was gonna flame you on this, but, once I read your second sentence I just decided it should be highly emphasized instead. The problem with doing these swaps is that most people doing them go to Schucks, and get the cheapest POS rebuild they can find. That doesn't speak anything to the quality of the original GM unit. The one wire GM high output swap is probably THE most common swap for alternators to any other type of vehicle in the world. You'll see this swap on anything from Jaguars to Subarus to offroad forklifts. It didn't become that popular with all the alternators being garbage. Another thing to emphasize is that you need to be aware of the wiring of the car you are putting it into. These alternators were originally destined for emergency response vehicles like cop cars, and ambulances. They were wired to run larger load lighting, and heavy duty everything. Alot of them had dual batteries. Thusly, charging at 15 volts for those vehicles really isn't a problem. I've never had a GM with these systems that idled under 14v. If they did, I knew something was on its way out. Put that same alternator in the midst of a bunch of light duty wiring; be prepared to chase some smoke, and do some splicing. Needless to say; you're going to have a few problems. I'd be willing to bet I've sold over a thousand of these alternators. Probably well over that. I've sold them in multiple rebuilt brands, and brand new ones. We sold alot of Raylocs where I worked, and it was the damndest thing. I'd sell 100 in a row with no incident, and then out of nowhere we'd get a string of 10 that were garbage right out of the box. The rule back then was that a Gm alt should cost about $1 per amp. So a 100 amper should be around $100. Unfortunately recently the price has stayed pretty close.... the quality has just plumeted. If you stay with a decent parthouse like Napa, or Carquest, they will warranty them until you die, but, changing them can get a little annoying. If you want a better one; go with a high quality rebuilder like Bellingham's Romaine Electric. I have a bunch of their stuff I've had for years. Never had a problem with any of it. Even a newer GM alt recored for heavy sub-woofer useage. Or, go with a new AC-Delco unit, and you will be plenty happy. A Schucks $80 unit is just going to keep going poof though. Probably at the expense of other parts on your car. That's just how it goes.

Whites, Danners, Vibergs, and a couple others. They are all the tops, and most expensive for darn good reason. As with most everything; you get what you pay for. I've had a custom dipped pair of Vibergs for about 6 years now. They were so good after 4 years; I went and paid the $400 for a backup set. I've worn the new set twice. My Vibergs are by far the most comfortable "shoes" I have ever owned, and even the 12 eyelets doesn't compell me to often wear other things. After 6 years, I'm finally getting to the point that I should get around to getting them resouled. I'd bet they'd last another 2 without doing that. If you look at the time that these boots have lasted me; I'll be getting away cheap for footwear. Take care of them, and they'll take care of you. I use Obenaufs, and Kiwi like a mother, and it's actually pretty hard to tell my new set from my old set without looking at the souls. Another thing you may want to consider is composite toes. My Vibergs are CF toes, and after having them; I wouldn't ever consider getting steel toes again. Steel is great, but, it does have its' downfalls. Aside from the theory of: What if something REALLLLLLLY heavy ever falls on my toes? IE The steel toes act as an apendage shear... theory. I would like to point out the more realistic aspects of composite toes over steel toes. Anyone whos had that many pairs of steel toed boots knows that they aren't the most ideal for this time of year, especially once the snow hits the ground. Much time walking around in snow with the steel toes, and conduction turns into a frosty B****. Even with really good socks. Composites like CF, and some plastics don't transfer the cold quite so harshly. The other aspect is weight. Not like a set of steel toes is going to kill you, but, I'm all about the research, and my Vibergs are stupid light. Even with heavy gram leather, and reinforcement shanks; they are some of the lightest boots around. So anyways, just wanted to point out a few more things. Do some research, and buy the best boot available for you. The Vibergs were definitely the best available for me, and the shape of my hoof. I'd heavily recommend them to anyone looking for an amazingly well built boot.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105967 Yup. He was incapable of basic research skills back then as well. I thought what made us human was our ability to ask why, and how. These incessant threads make me question that more, and more every day. I would liken the experience of reading these mind-numbing threads to a crackhead 7 days into a wicked run. On one hand I know they are slowly killing me, on the other; I just have to suck on that lightbulb, and see what happens. Just one more time.... If anyone here cares to get pissy about what I have to say.... that'd be you Uberoo.... I have one thing to say. PROVE ME WRONG. Shut up, and just show me that you are capable of doing ANYTHING other than making annoying threads, and asking the same stupid questions OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER, and OVER. Just make something. ANYTHING. Just this once. Just for the record; that last part was just as useful as the questions you ask. Have a good day.

DING DING DING. This was my point. Any time you increase the distance between the TB and the intake valve, you are going to manipulate things like intake volume, and velocity. The "helical" inner design of the spacer is what claims to be responsible for increased atomization of the fuel, and the changing of air stagnation inside stock intake manifolds. Thusly effecting the HP, and Torque curve. Positively, OR Negatively. Figuring out how, and why is better suited for men who like to sit in rooms with no windows, and argue over petty things. I'll invest the time it takes to understand it to the point that it benefits my life, the rest of my time is better spent enjoying the benefits firsthand, because, I've actually installed and used one. I can tell you with much real world experience, and great certainty that all 5 of the Poweraid PN 200-540 I have bought have paid themselves off in gas mileage probably within the first 6 months. All of the cars these were installed on have had very scrutinizing records maintained using mileage tracking through a gas purchasing network. They all increased 2-3 mpg with the exception of my S10 which increased 4mpg. It is a manual, and has 2 less cylinders. I would expect as much. If you need verification of my driving habits, ask any of my passengers/friends. I drive like an @$$hole, always have, and continue to do so everyday. I understand the idea behind mileage making, I just don't care. Thusly, all of these cars have been tested under real world conditions with a guy who thinks he's a stunt driver piloting them. Poweraid PN 200-540 has a list price of $109 and an install time of 30-45 minutes. That's probably a reccomended time based on how long it took the book smart engineers to find an end wrench. It'd probably take us stoopid street smart folks more like 15 minutes. If I had a dyno in my shop I would be glad to go out, take the one off my Caprice and get a baseline run for you, but, I don't. Yet.

It refers to flat lifters and stands for Tick Of Death. Affectionate name for a crappy problem.

That sounds like exactly what I said. My point was that just because it doesn't work for you or the motors you prefer; that doesn't make it "cheesy" or a "gimmick", and thusly it shouldn't be dismissed as such. While the EJs may benefit from the 14" intake runners, alot of the motors I spoke of don't. A 1" spacer (which most of these are for the convenience of not having to mess with fuel lines, or throttle cables) placed on a motor with 8" of intake runner is a big difference. That makes these TB spacers a good upgrade, FOR THE CORRECT MOTORS. So, I know you're gonna say: "We aren't talking about other motors. We're talking about EJs", and I'm gonna say. Cool. But maybe instead of discounting cheap, efficient throttle body spacers completely we should explain WHY they work on some motors, and not others. Who knows, some of these fools just might buy one of those silly American made cars one of these days. Damn them and their short intake runners....

Sorry to break it to you guys, but, throttle body spacers, and the idea of stack charging is not a gimmick. It is a long time tested, and proven method, and while it holds more validity on carbureted vehicle; the ideas are still proven to work well with throttle bodies. Any time you allow more room/distance/time for the fuel to atomize, you are going to change the HP, and torque curve. The most important thing to realize is that not all motors will react the same, or need the same things. While this may seem a moot point when dealing with the low HP numbers that these TBI 4 cylinders are putting out; that doesn't mean you should discount the value of stack charging "gimmicks" completely. The fact is that you need to look at the motor it is on, and WHY it may be effecting the performance. I have no doubt that the Jeep the OP speaks of was noticeably improved by throttle body spacing. Motors like the EJ22 with it's already long intake runners, I could see why you'd say boo hiss. But there are alot more motors in the world than the EJ22. Most torque curved motors benefit greatly from stack charging., especially those with shorter intake runners, like I-6s and narrow degree V motors. I have had TB spacers on nearly all of my early TBI LO5 v8s, and I can tell you from thousands of miles of real world experience; the gas mileage savings alone has payed them off. That's not to mention the combined improvements from additional mods. P.S. Tell the early Hot Rod innovators affectionately known as "The Ramchargers" that spacers don't work. They'd laugh your butt's off the dragstrip. They seemed to do ok with it on their ride, and all the money they made that year was pretty "real world"

I just read that you were having some trim malfunctions... wanted to stop by and wish you the best of luck... so. good luck with that. once again: trim malfunction. thank you

^ I'm gonna give Monstaru's bandwagon a push to get it rolling even faster, and then jump on for this one. I'm tired of seeing hypothetical threads that we all KNOW will never ammount to anything take up valuable space that could be occupied by someone actually accomplishing something. I'm all for brainstorming/rolling ideas around, but seriously, this along with many other of your "questions" have been answered many times previously. Look it up, and learn from their extensive right-ups, or JUST DO WHAT THEY, AND EVERYONE ELSE DID. Get a tapemeasure, a notepad, and pen, go out in your driveway, and start measuring. If you can't figure out what you'll need from looking at it all, and the previous "experience" from doing whatever it is you do to your cars; you probably can't manage a lift like this anyways. The people here capable of a lift like this could all sit around, hold your hand, and tell you step by step what you'll need. But, even IF all "The Capables" got together, welded it up, and shipped it to your door step; we'd have only gotten you to the most difficult part of the job. You will still need alot of time to troubleshoot, correct problems for your specific vehicle, and set things up correctly. Not to mention; you'd have had to install it in the first place. That's where the big problem for the question askers of the world comes in to play. Sitting on the computer asking other people "what you'll need" doesn't get anything built.

I'm all for supporting the quality lift makers on this board, but, I'm gonna have to say that from the looks of those pics he's got it handled. Those blocks are every bit as beefy as he needs, and they are installed correctly. Redcap, wait until you drive it. It will settle out even more, and as far as it "looking worse" once you get big tires on it; the opposite is probably true. While the outer line of a bigger tire will give more perspective on camber, the fact that the tire actually fills up the wheel well will make it less noticeable.

People have put these blocks in the wrong way before, and it results in wicked bad camber. It's just a mistake that new people make sometimes. You need to make certain that the installation of your blocks has moved the top mounting point of the strut DIRECTLY INBOARD towards the motor/center of car. If you have moved the top of the struts in any other direction than DIRECTLY INBOARD; you are adjusting things that you really don't want to adjust. So, if the top of the strut is in, but angled towards the rear of the car; you have a problem. If it is anything other than straight inboard..... you have some sort of problem. It is possible to install 2 of the blocks correctly, and the 3rd wrong. Don't ask me how, but, I've seen it done. The result wasn't good. If everything is correct, and you still have a slight ammount of camber; that's just how it is. Rolling the car will make it settle a bunch, and your smaller tires may make it look really bad. Pics would help too.