3eyedwagon

The Harbor Freight cheapo auto shade should do fine for you. I actually prefer them over helmets like Speedglass, and the Speedglass made Millers. Paying $200-$500 for a helmet that needs batteries, and won't work without them seems awfully silly to me. Batteries go dead = You're done welding until you get some more. "Solar" powered just seems ALOT more common sense to me. You already have a power source every time you weld, why not use it? I have good luck with the $40 auto shades. One lasted me about 7 years until it got propelled across the shop, and the helmet shattered. The shade however still works, and I turned it into a handheld exhaust screen. Works great. I've had 3 others for quite awhile now. The youngest is about 2 years of service now. Still going strong. Can't be beat for $40. These are one of the only cheap tools I will ever own, but, it's because they've proven to be just as good, if not better, than the expensive models. As far as flux cored wire: Get some decent stuff. You aren't going to save alot by buying cheap stuff anyways. Maybe a buck or two on a 7 pound roll. Just FYI, I'd avoid bodywork with fluxcore like the plague. It just isn't well suited for it. Some people will tell you they've done it, and I don't doubt they have, BUT, go take a look at the finished product. It's usually garbage. I've seen slag entrapments cause alot of problems with body filler bonding, and even paint chemical reactions. It's just not worth it to have to do it over again. It will probably be a little difficult doing exhaust as well. It just digs alot to be working on really thin stuff, but, it can be done in a pinch. Good luck.

Looks like you've got the right idea, but, fair warning; getting tools in there with a 2" block is already somewhat difficult without a good assortment of tools (ie wrenches). It's going to be alot tighter with a 1" block. I'd reccomend getting the facing the right direction and bolting them up solid. Also might not be a bad idea to have that upper bolt tack welded to the block, as getting an end wrench up in there is going to be tough.

If you are looking for a 2" "suspension style" lift on an EA82 body; you would be far better building it yourself, or at the most having someone assist you with some of the parts. You can cut the cost DRASTICALLY compared to the prices found elsewhere. The 2" lift takes very little fabrication skill, and with the vast ammount of information already provided, you could have it made at a local steel fab shop for far less than what I've seen them offered for here. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94629&highlight=markus56+lifted This thread has alot of the information, along with a sketch of a diagram for the front blocks. Along with the description included, you should be able to figure it out. Read up on this, and the other methods used for the rear half of the lift. Once you read a bit about it; it'll be easy to spot people to ask questions to, and usually they'll be happy to help you along. This isn't rocket science. Whether it's a 2" or a 6", it's still all pretty simple. But, if you don't have the brain/talent/equipment for it; I can totally understand dropping $300-$800 on $20-$100 worth of steel with holes punched in it, $40 worth of bolts, and some instructions.

In all honesty, not many people up here have run that small of a tire on the 2" suspension lift. 215/75/15s should be about 27.5" or so. I had 28s on mine, and it took very little work to get them to clear. The body seam should always be the first to go, as it will tear the crap out of tires. Just lay it over flat with a hammer. Then work the front fenders over at the bottom rear with an angle grinder, and a slitting disk. Reangle the contour of the fender, but leave the bottom bolt hole intact. Lastly the rear fenders near the bottom of the back door, although I didn't have to do this with 28"s. You can work it over with a light sledge as needed. A 2" lift will, and has many times, cleared 30" tires. That requires "ALOT" of trimming.

That's a negative. 215s should clear fairly easily. The body seam in the front wheel well will need to be hammered flat, and the fenders may need a slight trim, but, 2" lifted ea82s have cleared 235/75/15s and even 30s with alot of trimming. I had 28s on mine, and they cleared with only slight trimming. So, it can be done without much problem.

:lol:BURN IT DOWN... DOWN TO THE GWOUND!!!:lol:

It's the belt dressing. That's why it says right on the bottle; "Do NOT use with serpentine systems". I personally wouldn't ever even use the stuff on V-belts, and I sold it for years. It's like radiator stop leak. A temporary solution to a problem that could be easily rectified, and instead is made worse by quick fixes. Just like radiator stop leak.

You need to be really specific as to WHERE the oil leak is coming from. When I first started working on these back in 02 or so, I found it really strange that ALL of them that came into the shop had oil leaks. They all had a fairly large ammount of oil markings on the entire front skid plate, and some running back across the pan. It took me a little time to realize that the factory catch tube located directly below the remote mount oil filters (on 4wds ONLY) didn't do a great job of catching all the oil when you went to replace the filter. The oil then ran down the top side of the skid plate, some of it out the inspection hole in the plate, and down the front of the skid plate, and when you drove it after the oil change; it would run backwards on the bottom side of the motor. I make it sound alot worse than it really is, but, I'm trying to give you an idea of where the oil runs once that filter is spun loose. Anyways, the point is that this is really easy to confuse for an oil leak, and I wasted a bit of brakekleen keeping an eye on oil leaks that didn't really exist. So anyways, you should definitely enjoy the rig. Even if the rest of the truck weren't that great; the 4.3 v6 is probably one of the greatest motors ever built. It alone would be worth putting up with nearly anything. That's why you see SO many 4.3 swaps, and very few 22re, or 3.0 swaps. However, the fact is that the rest of that trucks drivetrain is pretty equally tried and true. The 4l60e has been around for years, especially if you consider the non computer controlled 700r4. It's all solid stuff. I'm not telling you some of it won't wear out, because, honestly; the transmissions usually need a rebuild at 140k or so, depending on the life they've lived. But, in my book; it's cheap cost of operation. I'd rather go through a few more parts on a rig that was pleasant to drive over its' shorter life than have one crappy one last me forever. What's the point of getting 500,000 miles out of something if it were a gutless rattlewagon every time you went somewhere?

The rest of the world calls that "comfortable". Now go put on your track suit, Nikes, sleeping bag, and drink some more Cool-Aid. Twitch, you are 110% right. You got a great rig for the money. May as well take advantage of a plethera of vehicles resulting in pretty killer low prices. That drivetrain is solid, and will last you a long time. Especially if you can handle that horrible ride for years to come. I mean, your back is sure to hate not feeling every single pot hole.

What did you guys let happen to that poor woman? She's probably hogtied in a dark basement right now, with one of her toes accompanying a ransom note to her family through the US mail, and all you guys could do was take pictures!!

What a response. A bunch of whiney complaints by someone who never would have taken the time to understand the vehicle, just hate it because it wasn't his 4runner. The consistent positive responses by the rest of the world prove that you don't know your @$$ from a hole in the ground, and the fact you'd actually go on to compare you're 4runner even gos further to show how absolutely retarded you are. Take all of the aftermarket stuff off of your 4runner, and THEN compare the two for what they REALLY are. Pull your head out Junkie, you are comparing apples and oranges. Stock to stock, in the real world for what 99% of the world is up to; the Blazer is, and always will be better at everything. If anyone wanted to spend the time to make a Blazer (as I'm sure has been done) into what your Runner is; I have no doubt it would make your Runner look like the underpowered POS that it undeniably is. So continue living in your fantasy world where comparing a vehicle that has been rid of it excessive weaknesses by the aftermarket, and a stock Blazer is the norm. It only shows how absolutely stupid you really are. TaTa.

Seems like most of you got around to the answer. The reason I asked where it was leaking from is because I've seen alot of people confuse the remote oil filter location for a leaky seal. The inspection plate is usually coated with a thin layer from changing the filter, and early on I thought the same thing. I thought they all leaked oil from somewhere out the front (ie Cooler lines, or something) until I finally realized that was where the oil filter was located on the 4x4 blazers. That'd be strange if it was a rear main. I'd suspect it sat for awhile if that truely is the case. Not many 4.3s or modern small blocks with the one piece rear main leak that much. Either way, no huge deal. It could be changed fairly easily.

^ The literally hundreds of thousands of them on the road seem to make your story a bit of a fluke. As far you "hating it"; you also would probably want to defend the bejeebus out of your Toyota pickup. That definitely calls your taste into question. As fas as the Blazer: It has the CPFI motor, which is one of the most tuneable 4.3s made. You can do alot to the motor just through the OBD system, and most all hardware you change; the computer will recognize, and make adjustments for. The thing will be reliable as all getout, and with a little work you can improve the mileage a bit. Plus, you'll have the proverbial power to pull a "greased string". As far as leaking oil, where is it leaking from? I haven't seen very many 4.3s that leak much oil. Especially not at 146k, that's still fairly young. That thing will go 3 if you take care of it.

Just wanted to highlight the important part. Most people blow right past this part, think solder is solder, and end up screwing themselves over by using the wrong product for the job. It can be done other ways, but, for your average joe without alot of Tig experience, or even soldering experience; the above statement will go a long ways in making this easier for you. Get the acid core solder, and use flux. I don't know how many times I've seen people screw stuff up by thinking flux isn't necessary, because they are "super awesome", and physics don't apply to them! I have to solder radiators around here constantly. Everyone has led you straight about the technique. You can always add more heat, but, it's awfully hard to take the heat out once you blow a hole in something. So, low heat, and alot of movement will be your best bet. GOOD LUCK!

GM used the corporate 12 bolt in a 3/4 ton for 3 years until the corporate 14 was released. It all really depends on what year truck we are talking about, but, if it is a corporate 12; it's fine for what 99% of the world is doing, and if it is a corporate 14; he'll never break it. Corporate 14s are often compared to Dana 80s. Also, A Dana 60 USED to bring $1000 to $1500 dollars in rebuildable condition. The bottom has fallen out of that market, and I see them now for $300, or less, all the time. You're right though, back in like 2002 I remember it was a feeding frenzy to find one. A logging company down the road from me had 3 of them CUT OUT from under work trucks in one night. I mean torched the springs, the brakelines, and just yarded them out. It was ridiculous.

You are honestly asking a question about what to do with a small block Chevy??? How about; build it, and put it in nearly anything you find interesting. This has got to be one of the simplest blankest easiest canvases in the world for you to paint your own image on. There are tons and tons and tons of things that can be done with that motor. You don't mention what the truck is, but, if it is something that interests you; there are tons of parts available to replace those stolen. You could just fix it up, and have a decent little pickup. Or you could build that motor, and scrounge craigslist for the THOUSANDS of other options to put that motor in. Everything from a s10 to a Mazda RX7. It's all pretty easy to do these days. Find a muscle car, or drop it in a Fox body mustang and go drag racing. Get a jeep to go wheeling, or (god forbid) even put it in a Toyota. Or find a cheap 73-87 Shorty 4wd Chev or GMC. Nobody can really answer this question for you though, because, IT IS ALL UP TO YOUR INTERESTS. Find something you want to play with, and rebuild the motor. That simple

Hit up your local Flying J. They have 194s, and similar bulbs in all colors of the sun, as well as LEDs, and colored bulb condoms. Truckers have all that dope stuff.

Blasphemy!!! At least it's not a Tach cluster, or that'd be BAD BAD BAD news...

That's what you get outta those direct fit replacement exhaust systems. I moved, and installed alot of that stuff while working for Napa. It was all crap. Even the best of it didn't fit quite right, and it almost always took a couple of people tugging it around to get it on there. The worst part was that it was all garbage anyways. Most of it was poorly galvanized crap that would be gone in a few years anyways. Needless to say; I now have a tubing bender. $45 for a 10' stick of 16g 2-1/2" aluminized makes it REALLY hard for any of the prebent setups to compete.

Pre 1967 Chevrolet/GMC used mostly closed knuckles. Multiple Jeeps. Early Cjs with Dana 25s 30s 33s and 35s. I'm not so sure about Ford or Dodge. I don't work on that crap. Search Napco diffs. They provided almost all early GM closed knuckle stuff. Amazingly well built pieces, but, old technology. Felt seals, other fun leather parts. Good times. Yeah. The straight axles are a little simpler, as the King Pins are often just a light resistance fit. When you have a double a-arm setup; they are sometimes pressed to fit, but, more often are riveted to the a-arm. Drilling or grinding is often recommended. I find a good sharp cold chisel will usually pop the heads off the rivets with a few good hard swings.

^We've always called them king pins here. Open knuckle, and closed knuckle. My NCP (Napa Chassis Parts) Book doesn't even list them as ball joints (I had to double check as I've never heard them called that before), although I can see how you could call them that. They are the same style joint, but without a mounting flange. I guess it must be another one of those regional things. Anyways, the "kingpins" on an open knuckle diff are way easier than the balljoints riveted into the arms of an IFS suspension. Be thankful for that at least. P.S. Is that a frame in BARE METAL, IN IOWA!!!! You're just brazen!!!!

Your parents must've had the worlds only IFS 4wd 79 K10 Blazer. All of those things are easy to do. A: U joints are cake. A vice and 15 minutes. Done. B: Ball joints won't exist on the 4wd model he is talking about. Problem solved.

Good to see. Figured he must've had to work or something. Two Jeeps on one trip now. Now that there's two; you should be worried about them multiplying. Who's next to catch "LowGearsWheelTravelItis"?

Dan, you're a little close on this side. :grin::grin: Yohn, You should have had Woody weld that. His looks much better. Yours looks like a flock of seaguls fresh out of the DelTaco dumpster tried to hold that together with a unified, though poorly aimed, *** bombarding. Looks like a good time. Glad to see you guys had good weather. No BFJ??? I though for sure he'd be there.

As for your car sitting crooked, two things: 1: Check around all the welds on the extensions for leaks, any sign of "moisture" means that you popped the shock absorber portion of the strut while welding, and the oil is leaking out. It'll make one side sag. 2: You may have welded the extension tubes on at a slight angle. Even the slightest angle inboard/out, forward/aft will cause a big difference in height. I've seen both these things happen on a few rigs that first timers have done this lift on.