3eyedwagon

Yes. Get some solvent, or even brake kleen. Either of those options would be fine, and definitely beat the hell outta doing nothing about it. I'd be partial to Brakekleen as it evaporates pretty well. Be sure to rinse it out so the bad crap flows out the way it went in. There's no point rinsing/pushing the debris into the rings and cylinders by washing it out with the block sitting upside down.

Yeah, that's probably a good idea. If nothing else, just to keep those new tires away from that steel lip under full rear suspension droop. :-\ Like I said, those 2" strut kits have that problem, but, we built those cars to be beat to death at Walker Valley. We just beat them until it cleared, and didn't care how they looked. You seem to want yours to last awhile, and drive nice, sooooo..... When you build your kit that drops all of the trailing arm mounting points 6"; you may want to consider some for of linking bar at the front/leading edge of the forward most block. The block sits perpendicular, and kinda hangs down like something just WAITING to get ripped off of the car. A piece of angle welded from the bottom of the block, forward, and up to the body goes a long ways to stiffening all of that. A plate bolted to the bottom of the unibody to weld the angle to makes all of it pretty reverseable too. You'll see what I mean. A link will help alot though to prevent that 90* piece from hanging down catching on stuff. The link will also kinda act as a rock slider to help you kick up, and over obstacles

So, are the trailing arm mounts dropped with that lift, or stock? I'm guessing stock, as that is probably what is causing that. I'm guessing it's just a strut, and diff drop. I know a bit is normal, but, on a complete drop kit; that doesn't happen to that extent.

Sweet mother of rear tire super far forward in the wheel well.... looks like alot of the 2" cars we've done, only not. Where'd you get that kit, and what does it consist of?

He's right. The wheels aren't the problem. You've gone from a very small 23ish" street tire to a 27.5" 6 ply light truck tire. The weight being felt is all in the tire. Moving weight away from the center rotation of the hub increases the effect exponentially. As far as durability; I'd almost be willing to bet that the puegot aluminums are every bit as durable as the puegot steelies. Those puegot steelies are garbage in the sense of offroading. They are very light weight crappy steel. They were made to haul a French car around on highways, so they don't hold up worth a crap to beating around on trails. I have a few of the steelies, and they are ALL bent. They are just crappy wheels. That's another reason alot of the guys that wheel alot use 6 lug wheels. They are plentiful, and made to handle a light truck. I haven't seen alot of 6 lug rims get bent, especially in comparison to the steel puegots.

Sounds like a bad "excitor" to me. You either have low exciter input voltage, or the excitor is shot. AKA: It isn't getting signaled to charge, or the excitor that receives the signal to charge isn't working properly. Thats why you have to rev to 3 grand to get it to charge. GM 27si, and 10si alts do this all the time.

Nope, Woody isn't around much. He has a board name of Wade, but, I've never seen him use it. I can get ahold of him for you, or I could possibly do it for you. Otherwise, I'd get ahold of Bill Omlin (AKA The Beast I Drive). Those are your best bets.

This issue was resolved back in 2003, ?Tony rump roast parker? The post date of the previous response can be found at the top left corner of each post.

No frame. Unibody. If a rock somehow got inside of the unibody, you should be able to see the hole where it entered. I'd bet it'd take some damage to get it in there as they usually don't leave many holes in the unibody to prevent trapped water. Thusly you would have had to punch a hole into the body to get the rock in there. There could however be rock/debris trapped above some skidplates, or rattle shields. I'd be you hurt a CV axle. Just my first thought as this can happen fairly easily offroading. A CV that has been hyperextended out of joint can make some pretty funny noises, and vibrations as it pops in and out of joint. Jack the car up and check the closest CV to the noise. Noise can bounce around fairly easily inside a car, considering it is a fairly large hollow steel tube. That can make diagnosis more difficult. If the CV is fine, get the car up on a lift and take a GOOD look around. Your rear driveshaft you have a stick jammed against it or something silly like that.

A 4"/3" will act to level the car out. I believe you are talking about a 4" front kit, and a 3" rear kit. Most of the time it's done to make the front sit level with the rear, as most EA81 cars have a bit of rake to them in stock form. The ea81 rear suspension can also be adjusted with the torsion bar, so, you don't necessarily need 4" lift in the rear. However, I've also heard of some people doing 4" blocks on motor crossmembers, and only 3" on trans crossmembers as a sort of "high clearance" lift. I think a few of these are being sold, so you may want to research if that's what is meant in the kit you are looking at. My preference is to drop everything on the car the EXACT SAME AMMOUNT. That way all the angles are the same as stock, only X" lower. The EA81s are already kinda persnickety about being lifted. So, mixing a bunch of different blocks together here, and there is going to change things like driveline angle, CV axle angle, etc. It just doesn't make sense to me for the very little benefit you may get. So, research what exactly is meant by the 4/3 you are looking at, because it CAN mean a few different things.

110% correct. A welder is a machine. A weldor is a person with a skill.

Get your speedometer "adjusted"? That's rich. The mechanical knowledge of a common highway patrolman.... It still won't hurt to go into court, and play "stupid farmer". If you honestly didn't know that you were speeding that much, and it genuinely comes through in your statement; I can't see how you couldn't at least get a reduction. I've gotten out of alot of tickets by claiming to have forgotten my speedo was off that far. It just takes some sincerity. Most any time you go to court you'll at least get a reduction. Do the math, make yourself a chart, and have it laminated. Take this in to court with you as a sign of good faith. Explain the cost of fixing the speedo, and how it isn't realistic, then offer your "memorization" of the chart as a means to prevent the problem in the future. It means alot that you are now aware of the situation and DOING SOMETHING TO CORRECT IT. Judges are more used to seeing people who just don't give a damn at all.

As much as I hate to see a GM motor go into another stinking Toyota, I guess we GM guys have a few spares laying around we can part with... You won't be dissapointed with that 4.3. That CPFI motor isn't the hottest of the 4.3s, but, it is tuneable, and it isn't like they ever made a BAD 4.3. That's nearly 100 HP over the 22r, and probably 150lb ft of torque in a far better RPM for wheeling. That's without ANY tuning, and the 4.3s are HIGHLY tuneable with alot of aftermarket parts available. $300 worth of 1.6 duration roller rockers would get you another 30 hp pretty easy, and stock heads can gain alot from even amateur porting. The 4.3 is probably one of the best offroad motors around. They rev low, and make tons of torque off of idle, and stay cool. I would even call them more bulletproof than the 22r. But, I could talk about the magic that is the 4.3 all day. I have 6 of them around here in various vehicles. They are a motor that just makes sense. It's a shame their production days are limited, but, it speaks alot that they have stayed in production for nearly 25 years... As for the swap, of course it's simple. The 4.3 is a short 2nd gen GM 350, missing cylinders number 3 and 6. Thusly, most all of the parts are identical. The bellhousing pattern being the most important. It takes any GM 2nd gen SB trans. That leaves ALOT of options. The 4ls that came behind the fuel injected versions are plenty strong already.

Some jackass posted this in one the previous 347,843,901 posts regarding this exact topic. Here's the thread so you can see for yourself all the hot drill on wheel action. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89174&highlight=drilling+wheels

^Thank god this guy is here to explain stuff to us Brain. I had no idea how to drill these wheels before that post. I would've had a 13 lug Subaru. And howabout YOU show some respect...:lol::lol: ROFL. :popcorn::popcorn:

THEY GOT RID OF JR. HIGH??? :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: When are kids supposed to learn about drugs these days, or did they just bump that into elementary school now? Anyways, they had Jr. High when I was around. So, as I'm not that old, I'm gonna call that a "still relative term". Anywho, P.S. If you are drilling 4 holes on a "rim job"; you're drilling too many. But anyways; whatever, that post is full of contradictory half thought out mumblings.

BFG All Terrains, probably one of the best tires of all time. I'm not sure that they make them down as small as 27", but, I know they make them in 235/75/15s. They are a great all around tire that wears excellent on the road, and they are amazing on light rigs in the snow. A good "floating" tire. Plus, they look killer on almost anything.

The 2nd gen Camaro built for Dale JR was built mostly by Detroit Speed. It was also built for the 08 SEMA show as I recall. I've seen some of their work before, and it is pretty typical of alot of famous person "automobile pimpers". Decent looking work done with bottom dollar parts. It is done to look good at the moment, and for the short duration after. Some of those SEMA car builders don't care in the slightest what the car looks like 6 months after the build, let alone a couple of years. Rusty bumper bolts don't surprise me in the least. Go try to find some bumper bolts that won't rust in a couple of driving seasons, and get back to me on it. There are very few companys out there producing decent chrome parts. It's just like buying lug nuts, there are VERY FEW out there that won't crack and rust in no time. As for the washer fluid bottle; it's probably more reproduction garbage, or original that was cleaned up but distorted by years of engine heat. Of course it pops open. As for you charge of "typical GM quality"; why don't you get back to me when your Brat is that old. At least the bodies of the American cars are still here to have something to restore. Look at any fitment from rigs of that era, anywhere around the world. It isn't going to be good. The Brits, and Germans were a little more concerned, but, not much. Then take into consideration what the car has survived, and you're lucky it's still even around. Most of the cars you see today have had alot of hours invested in decent fitment. It just wasn't a priority at the time, for anyone. Look at some of the old Dodges, they were horrendous... They were all instead busy making engines that made tremendous power. As for the Hennessy power plant. It's an LS3. Made by GM, improved by Hennessy. They don't do alot to it to get that HP out of it. Most of it could be done in the home garage by a decent mechanic, a wad of cash, and a Summit/Jegs catalog. Not knocking Hennessy, it's awesome they do what they do. But I just want to point out that it isn't some black magic voodoo they do, and install their own special powerplants. They are still GM LS3s, and LS7s. Just retuned, and supercharged. As for the collectability of these cars... I kinda wonder about it. These aren't like muscle cars of the 60s, and 70s. In the hayday, most of the cars were done by the factory with very few "firms" performance tuning them. Just a few dealerships like Don Yenko, and Baldwin in Canada, with a few otheres sprinkled in there. Now it seems thats the only way to get truely fully built cars. Roush, Hennessy, Lingenfelter, SLP. They all do the really hopped up stuff now, for the car companies. There are no more COPO cars like the old days. I think that kind of detracts from the rarity, and desireability a little bit. It's just that much cooler knowing that the car company had a direct line in making that car go as fast as possible. It loses an edge once it's left that factory, and been tuned, at least in my book. I still respect the heck out of it, I just think it'd be cooler if the companies were still wrenching the cars to their unpractical limits as a competition with each other.

It will NEVER work..... this weekly vote of confidence brought to you by "that one ahole".... Let me know if you need any more pep talks. Otherwise I'll just be lurking and watching, waiting to copy everything you do, and take credit for it myself...

Soooooo Rob, does this not fall into that "4000 pound pile of garbage" category you were speaking of the other day??? The Top Dog Hennessy is 725 HP, and 741 Torques That = 3.5 second 0-60, and, if you can hold on, 11.3 second quarter miles. That's super car territory. I'm not saying it would hold in the corners with an Apollo Gumpert.... but, I bet it's just as fun.... :grin::grin::grin: I'm not a huge fan of everything about the new Camaro. Like the IRS. That's Corvette stuff, and that's where it should stay. I completely understand, and respect what the engineers are trying to achieve, but, I likes my Camaros with a straight rear axle. Although I've read they still do a wicked burnout with very little wheel hop. As for the "new" Challenger RT: If I wanted something that looked a 70 Challenger, and handled like a row boat; I'd go buy a 70 Challenger, and enjoy the appreciation. $$$. While I'm not completely sold on the looks of the new Camaro, or Mustang for that matter, I do have to say that the designers of each at least made an attempt at a modern interpretation of different Camaro, or Mustang attributes. The Challenger just falls short of having interchangable fenders with the 70s models.:-\ It also handles like crap, and is absurdly slow for what they think it is worth. Not bashing Chrysler. I hope they come back, and come back strong. I just don't think that doing recreations of past successful models is going to get there for them.

Some good tips, but, I just don't know where you keep getting this silly info about a 110 machine not being capable of 1/4" plate. Even with hard wire, and some simple cleaning it is EASILY doable. And I have NO idea why you keep talking about multiple passes. They just aren't necessary. Especially since we are talking about beveling the plate. I've welded far more with far less, it just takes some common sense and prep work. As far as the duty cycle; 20% at 21V is standard for pretty much any modern 110v machine. Unless you have some Harbor Freight POS, and then that is just on you for having bought that pile, and in all honesty; anyone who was silly enough to consider one of those a viable option when purchasing a welder shouldn't really be giving welding advice. 2 minutes of continuous welding is ALOT. Far more than people realize. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone around here capable of doing such. The reality is this project is going to be tack, tack, tack, short weld, take a break, weld some more. 2 minutes of 21v is plenty to get this job done. Would more power be better? Yes, it always is, but, the idea you have that these 110 machines won't do that work is just wrong. Also, as I stated earlier; a stick machine would pose no better results. Especially since there aren't alot of people out there that can run 7018, or 6010 vertical or overhead. The only benefit of stick would be portability due to the leads. If it has tons more power, great; you won't need it. The tractor has wheels, so I'd drive it up to the mig machine personally.

202 is right about fitting a piece tightly, and beveling the edges. You want to basically make a nice V for your new weld to "lay" into. As far as using a wire feed welder; that is fine. There is no "best" equipment for this job. It could be done with stick, mig, tig, or even gas. A stick welder offers no advantage over mig other than portability. Start by tacking the pieces together in multiple places. A good tack here, and a good tack there. Go about it methodically. That will help prevent as much distortion as you can. You don't want to start a weld only to get to the other end and see your plate has moved 3/4" from all the heat you're pouring into it. I'm not sure as to what kind of wire feed wire you're using, but, in the event you are using hardwire with 75/25 mix gas shielding; you are really going to need to be picky about cleaning things correctly. Hardwire just isn't friendly with dirt or grease. Flux cored or dual shield will burn through crap a little more efficiently.

Strictly speaking; we all got each others point and nobody really gives a *&@#$%@(. :grin::grin::grin::grin:

You REALLY SHOULDN"T need to drop the engine for the 2" suspension lift you are doing. If you have to..... SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG...... The engine being removed is usually for people doing the 4" or bigger crossmember lift. Ditching the engine just makes it ALOT easier to move the crossmember around to line up all the blocks. It would be a nightmare to do without removing it. I'm sure there are people who "have done it", but, I'm sure they also eat coal and **** diamonds...