3eyedwagon

DING DING DING! Right there's what it all comes down to. I mean you could get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a butcher's ***, but, wouldn't you rather take his word for it? Point is, manufacturers LIE. Give anyone the budget to run these test, tell them what you want the results to be, and TADA! You've got your scientific results. For some reason $20 doesn't project the image of a moving precision instrument to me. I'm a fan of HF for some stuff, but, spend the extra money to get a good one, and take care of it.

So concise.:-p

I'm glad to hear that you take none of this personally. I understand your point about none of this making sense, rationally. I agree completely with your statement about the ignorant not knowing any better. However, I take issue (nothing personal, just pointing out) with your statement about helping the people to think for themselves. If you go back, and read my posts over the last 3+ years in the OPs various threads; you will easily see that I, and many others, have tried to do exactly that. It has slowly tapered to this state. I promise you it didn't happen over night. There have been many attempts made, first nicely, to help educate, and get the proverbial engine started. Check up on it, and see how they were all responded too. Finally, I can promise you, I'm not mad at all. I type all of this just laughing, and shrugging. Many people find my posts to be mean at times. Anyone who has met me will tell you that, in person, I am just a blunt individual. Alot of it is dead pan, and laughing at myself as much as the person catching my crap flipping. I will give you the shirt off my back until you show me that you don't deserve it, and my answers/responses will often be sharp edged, although never critical unless I thnk it's what you need to hear. I guess it's just one of those things that doesn't translate well over the internets.

Considering the past threads is what I have the problem with, especially considering the recent concerns over space wasting. I'm calling it ridiculous, because it is, and has been for a LONG time. Call me crazy, but, possessing the car with the needed information contained on it should eliminate the need for these kinds of posts, let alone MANY MANY MANY like it. Maybe I said it too harshly for your likings, but, that's just how I talk to people that show this many instances of outright laziness. Maybe I'll just start reporting ridiculous threads to mods instead, and ask that they be removed for being a waste of space. That'll probably help save the feelings of those reading this, as it's obvious that the OP will never show any signs of stopping posting these threads

Miles, If you're really 31, and I'm 27; we aren't that old. There shouldn't be that drastic of a common sense drop. It only works because people will continue to feed them like baby birds. The "current generation" of the 60s had the luxury of the telephone throughout their entire lives, but, do you think men like Mickey Thompson, Craig Breedlove, or Gene Winfield called Ford, GM, or AMC when they needed to know what size bolt was holding the control arm on a Mustang, the valve covers on an AMC 390, orthe door handles in a 49 Merc. I'm betting they probably just went, and looked. I guess the caliber of the work should make the difference of skill, and character fairly obvious though.:-p;)

Double post

Maybe you should go back, and read the 58,671,289 posts made by this person about other incredibly simple crap. Then you'd have a fricking clue what you are talking about. All of this information is available elsewhere. The easiest way I can think would be to: 1: Get of your can, and walk outside 2: Grab some tools 3: Pull one of the damn bolts 4: Get a tape measure 5: Find the answer!!!!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: Be careful. Tape measures are standard, and the bolts are metric. This may even require a little conversion work. OMG!!! My brain is killing me!!!! If common sense problem solving like this is what you consider "smart", then yes; Monstaru, I, and many others are ROCKET SCIENTISTS. You should drop to the ground in utter amazement, and praise us for the fact that we allow you to breath our air. This thread should be deleted just to free up space. It literally isn't worth anything.

Doesn't matter how you look at the car. That's correct. The tops of the struts need to be moved IN TOWARDS the CENTER of the car. So, your paint is correct.

Sawzall or hammer. The bigger you make those brackets, the worse that clearance gets. That's the problem with lifting this trailing arm style suspension. You don't need to drop the rear differential. All the ones I've seen without a dropped rear diff seem to hold up just fine. It's all a matter of personal preference.

Don't get offended man. I was just messing with ya, and 99.9% of the world has no idea who Clay Smith even is. I do, and it caught me as being funny to see one of their stickers on a Subaru. They made a name for themselves making cams for Big 4 V8s, and V8 powered speedboats. It's old school V8 speed stuff, and I'm big into all that. That's why it caught me as funny. As I said, it'd be kinda like me having a BowWow sticker on an Impala or Camaro. It just isn't something you see every day. I'm not trying to be the sticker Nazi, and tell you to scrape it off. Just trying to explain WHY it is funny to see it on that car. I'll be the first to admit, it is a great sticker.

No, I mean why is there a Clay Smith sticker on a Subaru. Clay Smith got started pre-WW2. He's gotten into a bit of foreign stuff now, but, They are known and will always be known as a "Big 4" speed parts outfit. I don't care if that car has a EG-33 with 17 huffers on it,and makes 1500 horsepower at the wheels, a Clay Smith sticker is "slightly" out of place. It'd be like me putting a Bow-Wow sticker on my 64 Impala. It just don't jive man. Buy hey, I'm old fashioned; if the car don't have a part from them on it, the sticker doesn't go on it. And yes, all these lifts are straight forward. This ones especially easy, that was my point. Don't forget where you got all your questions answered about this super straight forward project.

Looks great. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: You'd have to be crazy to pay money for this lift. It's as simple as it gets, and the information is so readily available; there's no excuse not to do it yourself. One question though: Why in holy hell do you have a Clay Smith "Mr. Horsepower" sticker on the side of a Subaru? I can't even think of two things that don't go together better than that.

You're probably better off doing so in the long run. While it is not 100% necessary; it is probably alot easier than leaving it in. Since you are seperating the crossmembers from the body, and placing blocks in between the two it is easiest to have the crossmembers as light as possible. Having the engine, and transmission still in the car/hooked to the crossmember adds a couple hundred pounds to the weight you'll be maneuvering around to get the blocks lined up. Obviously that's going to add some difficulty to balancing all that crap on a a trolley jack. Having the engine/trans removed also makes it far easier to add links from block to block strengthening your lift. Making the steering linkage will also be worlds easier without the engine in the way.

Watch Craigslist. You can probably pick up a decent set of bottles, a beat up cart, and a well used torch for that price. I bought a set some while back for $300 out of the newspaper. The bottles were obviously just fine, they came with regulators, and a beat up old Victor. The cart still works just fine. New stuff is going to cost ALOT more. You're looking at over $200 for JUST bottles of any size. If you want to gas weld, you need what's called a combination torch. It has 3 valves. 2 at the bottom of the handle, and one further up.That is a combo torch. If you don't EVER want to gas weld, you don't need a combo torch. It will just have the two valves at the bottom, and a long slender neck. They are often called pool cues, because you can run them smoothly along your hand like a pool cue. They are far nicer for cutting, but, are more expensive, and less common. I'd advise you to spend money on a larger set of bottles, and save up for a good torch. Even if it's a nice used Victor, you'll be happy. Stick with name brand stuff like Victor. You can still get parts, and you WILL NEED some parts when buying a used torch. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/2111899660.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/2111801999.html $375 is a little high, but, if it's in good shape it would be worth spending. http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/2109802919.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/2103043999.html

You willing to bet on that "nowadays"? After the whopping 2" that fell down there a couple weeks back that had all of those FWDs, and AWDs stuck; I'm not so confident... Most of those folks couldn't grip drive a car with traction control. Driving rear wheel drives is a quickly dwindling art. Soon not even cops will know how to effectively handle one.

The problem you're referring to is only a problem when running VERY SHORT exhaust, or no exhaust at all. Even just a foot of pipe is often enough. It isn't as much a problem with back pressure, but, more often a problem of heat. When the valves are exposed to open air, it raises the temperature of the combusted gasses, and heats the combustion chamber, that in turn cooks the exhaust valves. That is a simplified explanation, but, you should get it. Many, many quarter mile race cars run with short, open headers. Also dry lake cars, and many traditional, and rat rod styled cars do it for noise, and looks. While the valves in that Small block may be a bit more sturdy, your ea82 is still just fine muffler free. Heck, most of them have wicked exhaust leaks anyways.

You need to READ all of the information already provided. There is a wealth of it in all of the stickys. Long story short/simple answer: NO. You can't do a 4" lift on just the struts. You need to drop crossmembers if you go 4". For all of that information, I'll leave you to research the countless other threads answering those questions.

He doesn't need to drop the engine crossmember. If you do not know the specifics of this lift; please don't waste your time, and the OPs by responding. Thank you.

^+1 Subruise is someone who's obviously done this. You DON'T need to drop the crossmember. Not on the umpteen I've done, and helped do anyways. First thing to do is ditch the sway bar, as mentioned. Don't try it with it hooked up. You just plain won't be able to do it. Some of these have been easy, and some are just plain tough. I've had a few go together super easy, and seen others fight back alot. It's just luck of the draw I guess. As mentioned, be sure to put the correct block in the forwardmost stut mounting point, and make sure the blocks are moving the top of the strut directly inboard. Anything else will change things you don't want changed.

I will gladly admit that the GM ABS system leaves something to be desired. They've improved it greatly, but 2000, and prior vehicles definitely don't feel "comfortable". That being said: DITCH THE ABS I've done so on many GM ABS equiped vehicles. It can easily be done by unplugging a front ABS sensor. The ABS light stays on, but, who cares. Cover it with a sticker. If you really feel strongly about ABS, as I do, then don't use it. I hate ABS. So, I remove it from the equation. By unplugging the ABS sensor lead from even just ONE of the ABS sensors, the earlier systems are rendered useless. I simply unplugged (the lead has a pigtal located up in the wheel well, running under the lip of the inner fenderwell towards the rear of the wheel well) the one on my S10, and it will lock up all 4 tires now, IF I want it to. Give it a try. My stock brakes were good after I did that. *EDIT!!!!!!* I want to make clear that this should only be done by competent, experienced drivers, and that they should; following this excercise, find a safe place to get used to the vehicle's characteristics without ABS. Someplace remote, and big....

It's funny that you find a s10 Blazer to be a barge. It's all relative to what you are used to driving I suppose. I drive alot of 6 man pickups, so, a Blazer is actually pretty small. Just to point out the obvious; the S10 Blazer is a midsize SUV, thusly, it is about exactly the median of vehicles you'll find on the road today. It isn't a "barge", it is large compared to what you are used to. A 1964 Oldsmobile 98 is a barge. As far as the plastic cover; Nope; they aren't rally ready. If you manage to hit something with one, you're doing it wrong... I'll be the first to admit that almost all of the GM IFS trucks are pretty plush riding. Downright floaty feeling to those not used to such luxuries:grin:. That's because they were designed that way. However, I have to ask: Why is it torture compared to the BRAT? Does it really suck that much to be able to get up to 60mph without counting to 15. I don't care for ABS either, but the 4l60e is fine. Sucks it doesn't jive with you. You're missing out on a great rig for very little money.

As GD said; Sky's the limit. It all depends on what YOU want. I've seen "paint jobs" run upwards of $10,000. I say "paint jobs" because included in this was all the body work necessary to make a paint job of that caliber worth it. I've seen alot of situations where cars roll in to get painted thinking it will be a fairly easy job, only to find that the car needs to be quartered (have the rear quarter panels replaced). An acquantance of mine wanted to have his 1953 Oldsmobile 98 convertivle re-shot last spring, and "freshened up" for the summer. After getting into it, the body shop found that the drivers rear had been smacked pretty hard. The repair had been made using all-steel, and paint stir sticks. We guessed it was done sometime in the 60s, as it had multiple coats of paint over that repair. As has been said; the materials are somewhat expensive. If you want to stick with the stock color; that'll make it more so, as you'll have to have a batch mixed. If you don't mind getting something close pre-mixed; that's cheaper. Gallons of single stage start at around $100 in Summit, with another $50-$80 needed in reducers. However, you'll have a limited color palet, and you definitely won't match the stock color exactly. Dual stages (base coat/clear coat) are a little more expensive, and a little more time consuming. Thusly, it'll be even more expensive. You just need to decide how nice of a job you want done. This is one of those things I've always encouraged people to try. I got into painting a few years back, and while I've screwed up a few jobs, wasted some material/time; I get better at it every time I try. I've also ended up with a few pretty darn good looking cars out of the deal, and learned ALOT along the way. There's no shortage of information out there, so it's one of those things that isn't the mysterious black magic that it once was. But, like I said; it's all up to you and what kind of job you want done.

Grannys Speed Shop in Skagit County Washington builds conversion kits to drop SBCs into Mazda Rx7s. www.grannysspeedshop.com/ There's only a few of them around here, and this is where the kits are made. So, you're not going to pull up next to one at the stop light every day. I know I've seen a few competing in the Grassroot motorsport Challenge, and a few elsewhere. If you want a small light weight street car, a RX7 would probably be a good choice. Plus, they are alot roomier than a Miata, and still respectable looking (IMO). He sells individual parts or complete drop in packages.