3eyedwagon

Wow, clean pre-war steel in favor of Subarus?...... I guess whatever floats your boat.

Wow, this thread is scary. You need to find some authoritative information before you start screwing around with this stuff. This isn't the kind of thing you should just mess with until you get it right. Some of the startup procedures listed were right, but, propane is a different animal than acetylene. You need to find a chart that will guide you to correct pressures depending on the tip size you are using. For what most people are doing you will need to run about 5psig of Propane, and 25/30psig of Oxygen. YOU DO NOT NEED TO RUN 15+psig. That is terrible advice. Most people will never encounter material thick enough to need 15psig of propane/acetylene pressure. To those that don't know what you're talking about, PLEASE AVOID GIVING TERRIBLE AND DANGEROUS ADVICE. Over 15psig can blow a regulator, and result in a not so fun fire. Here is a good tip chart, and pressure chart PER WHAT MATERIAL THICKNESS YOU WILL BE CUTTING. That will get you started getting dialed in. http://www.cousesteel.com/AndysPlace/Pdf/PropaneTipSet.pdf Cutting with propane can be a little more tricky than with acetylene, but, far from difficult. Most large scrapping sites use strictly propane for cost, and they are often cutting incredibly thick material. They utilize torches that mix the gasses a bit better, but, it's not anything that anyone couldn't do. We used natural gas torch setups for extremely accurate cutting of 1"+ thick WABO test fixtures. It worked extremely well. In most cases preheating only takes moments longer. If you know how to set up the equipment...

DING DING DING! The BFG doesn't suck in the mud, it just isn't great. It was never designed to be a great mud tire. If you want to go tackle Walker in February, I'd go with something else OBVIOUSLY. That isn't what Scott asked about. Sounds to me like he'll be using this thing as a pavement pounder, and trips to Walker in the summer. If that's the case, he won't find a better tire than the BFG A/T without spending alot more. If he does want to hit Walker in February, I'm sure he can throw one of his sets of MTs on for that trip. Also, a BFG A/T will clear just fine. Try spinning it.... Plus, they are probably one of the greatest snow tires around for floater rigs. PS: 215/75/15 BFG T/As list for $132 a piece at tire rack. That's really not very expensive. And if you are having problems with 6ply tires on a Subaru, YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG. If you guys want to start comparing the STTs to BFG A/Ts, we can always go get the BFGs big bro.... The BFG M/T TA KM2 is only $146 each. If you want some sidewall, compare that to the STT.

BFG A/Ts. If there's a better "do it all" tire, they haven't made it yet. There's a reason it says "Baja Champion" on the sidewall. They're tough, durable, and will float through just about anything you can put under them. I've been a Toyo user for quite awhile, but, the BFG A/T doesn't have much on the market that can compete. Especially at that price point. They drive down the road really well too. That's why I have a set on my Roadmaster. They worked great in the Arizona sand, and handled the interstate at 90+ without any more noise, or pulling than normal street tires. Oh yeah, that set is from Pull A Part too.... can't be beat.

^He's talking about a REAR strut lift on an EA82. No adjusting for camber. It drops straight down. I'd suspect a strut problem. As said, take the struts off and change sides. Then roll it a bit, and see. It's possible you have a bad strut. It could have been damaged when you lengthened it. After all, you did cut the eyelet off and then weld on the tube.... Can't expect it to be perfect. What I mean is, I've seen these go bad before. Good news is you can make another set for dirt cheap. You can bend the pieces for moving the strut mounts down. It takes about 3.75" of material with the holes drilled about 2.75" apart. Then I just bend it until it looks about right.

That 96" (IIRC) wheelbase makes for a handful.... and 401 cubes is plenty! Cool to see another AMC person around. I have a handful of them myself. 68 Javelin with a 290 and a BW automagic 68 BigBadOrange AMX with a 401 and an automagic and my Dad has a 69 AMX Go Pack with a 390 and the Borg Warner close ratio Super T10. They all have the AMC20 with a Twin Grip. Looks like you do too. I just missed an opportunity on a Gremlin about a week ago. It had a built 258 I6, and came with a spare 360. Missed a heck of a deal. Oh well. Cool to see someone else is keeping them alive!

Well, you're wanting to compare Spokane, and Everett. Apples and oranges really, as others have stated. I can't speak much on Spokane. Never lived there. Everett I can give you a better idea. Mt. Vernon may as well be part of Everett now with the I-5 corridors urban sprawl. If not, it will be in 4 years. Anyways, western Washington, your cost of living will be through the roof compared to what you're used to. Gasoline will average $0.30 a gallon more, and the ridiculous traffic will mean you'll need more of it. Rent will also be significantly more. A decent place in MV would be $800 a month, and that's not for any place I'd personally want to have a family, or work on a car. Read as: $800 a month isn't going to get you much of a yard, most likely a place with no yard that won't want you working on your car. You can watch and find a house for near that price, but, then you're getting in to neighborhood issues, house sizes, etc. Everything else here is also ridiculously priced. The essentials like milk, eggs, bread; they will all be more expensive than where you are. As stated, luxury items are also more expensive. Dining out, liquor (2nd or 3rd highest tax in the US), cigarettes, everything is more expensive. That stuff is all important to look at, and if the cost of living wage increase that comes with the move deosn't cover it, it's a bad idea. Secondly is the weather. It rains. It rains the next day. then again the next day. FOR ABOUT 220 DAYS! if you can't handle it, don't come. Even if you think there's a chance you will get depressed, don't come. The rain is the toughest thing about being here. It can ruin whole months if you are task oriented, and don't have a reasonable place to do anything. This spring has been terrible. We finally reached 70* in Seattle the other day for the first time this year. It's been an exceptionally crappy Spring. Everett isn't a terrible place. You couldn't pay me enough to live there, but, I hate cities. It's just another suburb though, it has its' crappy hoods, and its' good hoods. There are a fair amount of recreation opportunities, but, travel through traffic, and battling Canadians will be necessary if you desire leaving the city north bound. No way around it. I gripe about living here. I think it sucks compared to 10 years ago, but, that can be said of most places. Still, all it takes to get you to love it is one nice July day. As much as I complain about it, and get ignored by the laws, Canadians driving over the pass, and ridiculous taxes/cost of living; a summer here always keeps me hooked.

DUDE, THIS HAS ALL BEEN COVERED LITLERALLY DOZENS OF TIMES BEFORE. YES, THERE ARE AXLES THAT CAN DO ANYTHING YOU WANT THEM TO AND MORE. GETTING AN AXLE THAT WILL DO THOSE THINGS WILL COST ALOT OF MONEY..... SERIOUSLY, PULL YOUR HEAD OUT AND SEARCH ON YOUR OWN FOR ONCE. IT's ALL BEEN COVERED BEFORE!!:mad::mad:

If a stumble is recovered by an increase in fuel pressure I'd still say it is fuel related. Hard to say without having it parked in my garage, but, from what you describe that would still be my bet. If I get down to my buddies shop in the next couple days I'll dig through his manuals, but, it still sounds to me like you are describing a fuel delivery problem. Sorry to hear you're having such tough luck.

Sorry, totally forgot about it being a Suburban. I pretty much automatically thought of a pickup, because that's what I've done these on. I've taken one out through the bottom, fortunately GM put some long winded bolts on the strap assembly. Drain the tank best you can and they aren't too bad to wrestle. In all honesty, if the mechanic couldn't track down the problem on this fuel system, I'd not return to that mechanic. A fuel pressure gauge being screwed on to the factory nipple isn't exactly advanced diagnostics. This should be shop 101 to a professional.

5psi is plenty enough to starve out a FI Big Block under load. In other words; 5psi would be noticeable, and I'd bet it's the fuel pump. Anytime you test a fuel pump on a fuel injected system, and it isn't meeting factory specs (even 1 or 2 psi low) that is probably your problem. Can't guarantee it for you, but, I know that'd certainly be my next step. As for your complaint of it not being a Subaru... do you really think that changing an in tank pump is easier from one vehicle to another? In tank is in tank. They all seem like a PITA until you've done a few. Just pop the bed up, and yank it out the top. That's the best way I've found. Just be careful with all the fuel lines.... don't want to kink one. That'll increase the duration, and cost of the job about 300%.

Let me know the 8th digit of the VIN, that will tell me what injection system we are working with. They used 3 injection systems in that era (TBI, MPFI, and CPFI) even on the same years, and it can get confusing. If it really does have an injector for each cylinder on a fuel rail it is MPFI. Either way, they all have multiple injectors, and they are all Vortec systems. Vortec refers to many (depending on model) post 1993 heads, not the fuel delivery system. The MPFI systems have a few more sensors, but, still aren't overly complicated. It's really sounding like a fuel issue to me. If it is MPFI the fuel rail probably has a threaded nipple ready to have a fuel pressure gauge installed for these exact diagnostic purposes.

If it's a Cat you'll know in short order. When they go the honeycomb usually drops apart pretty quickly creating a very large clog. I could see how it could be confused for a fuel shortage, but, a quick trip to the exhaust tip while someone else revs it will tell you whether or not that's the case. They will usually blow a bit of crap out the tail pipe, sometimes even big chunks of sooty fuel soaked garbage. Even if it's not forcing much out the pipe you'll be able to hear/see its' labored breathing pretty easily at the exhaust tip.

o2 sensor can create a stumble, and not throw codes. If you are handy with a multi-meter you can check what it's reading, and see if it needs replacing. If not, they don't cost a ton to replace, and are a good maintenance item that will save you some gas $ anyways. On the big blocks the 95-96 era was transitional. The earlier styled distributor had a hall-effect switch that could cause odd problems at times. Check to see what distributor you have. If your hall effect switch is bad, you may want to end up plopping a whole new distributor in, as changing that switch can be kind of a PITA. You may want to consider a fuel pressure gauge. A tired pump can create pressure for idle, but, be too weak to keep up when the engine needs more fuel. A fuel pressure gauge being monitored while revving the engine will show you if there's a problem or not. Other than that, you are on the right track. It will just take a little time to troubleshoot. This generation of upright throttle bodied injection is super simple. You can figure it out. Continue to check sensors with a multi-meter and you will find it. PS: The Holley, and HEI would be a stupid, stupid move. Less efficiency, and more complicated in the long run. EDIT: Just read about the o2 sensor so never mind.

This is pretty common stuff with vehicles that have sat for an extended period of time. If it were mine, I would arc from the starter master input to the solenoid with a screw driver or jumper wire. Sometimes just bumping these things over, and getting some juice flowing through the circuits will clean out the cobwebs enough to get everything working again. Just use a large 12ga jumper wire about 6 inches long to arc from the large input on the starter over to the small ignition terminal on the starter. Just hold each end and arc it to get it to crank. If that makes it crank you probably have a problem with corrosion on the contacts, or switch. If not, you probably aren't getting a good connection from your battery, or your battery is dead.

Seriously, get a life. Other mods, feel free to talk to me about this. Zap, once again; Cram it.

Could a MOD lock this thing so it will stop getting dredged back up every week by people who can't read!!!!:grin::grin::grin:

I think you need to read the definition of tactical rather than accept what is now termed as "tactical" by Soldier of Fortune Magazine and other shooting magazines. I don't care if you're the Wizard of Oz's jarhead scout sniper brother, redundancy is redundancy. An Ak47 was tactical right out of the box. Draping it in black plastic bits, and lasers doesn't mean it wasn't from the get go. It's just a pet peeve of mine, but, it's ridiculous for people to call weaponry designed for military use (and really, what weapon wasn't?) "tactical" because it has a quad rail, and a fore grip. Hell, a Ruger 10/22 is downright tactical in capable hands, even "non-scoped, and all "wood grainy"". By your reasoning here my 1911 isn't "tactical" because it doesn't have a laser, or other BS on it? Nope, it's still tactical. Even if it had Walnut grips, and iron blade sites. The same goes for a black powder cannon, a trebuchet, or an indian's arrow head. All of these weapons were designed for military action, and therefor are tactical. Doesn't matter how much black plastic, or lasers you drape on them. Being devoid of that stuff doesn't make it any way less tactical. Get it?

Sooooo, was this particular AK47 versed in, and skillful at military actions? More so than other particular AK47s? Otherwise that's redundant, and ridiculous. Kind of like my killing noose, or underwater snorkel, or nighttime pajamas. Get it?

And that's a first gen. Even narrower.

It's been done. There was a Brat on a Yota frame at Reiter awhile back. It had a 4.3 in it as I recall. It was full a exo-skeleton trailer queen trail rig. If a 4.3 will fit side to side; so will a sbc. Exhaust will be tight, but doable. As for your buddy having to put his radiator in the bed; no he didn't. I've sbc'd or been part of sbc'ing 4 different gens of Toyotas. We didn't have to relocate the radiator on any of them, and in all cases they were replaced with Ron Davis 4 cores to cool the sbcs. Much thicker than a stock Yota radiator. Most of them required trimming to the core support, and beefing the support up to hold the weight of a much larger radiator, but, in none of them did we have to relocate the radiator to the bed, and all of them retained stock grilles/headlight assemblies. No matter what you decide, Yota, S10, Samurai. It is all going to take fabrication work. If you have to ask these questions; you should probably ask yourself if you are up to any of that first.

Got a sun-dial?

So how was $800+ on a 2wd hatch ever a good deal to begin with? Even if it were MINT; it's a 2wd dl. That was easy to spot from the very first picture. I paid far less for a hi low 1.8 hatch in better shape, in a better economy. No TACH FAIL:-p

No problem. Sometimes even I know what I'm talking about!

If it's a stock 1992 V6 then it cannot be either a 2.8l or a 4.3l. The 2.8 got dropped out of production in about 1989, and the 4.3 was never used in a Camaro. They should have over the 3.1, but they didn't. If it is stock; it is a 3.1l v6. The 3.1 is fine. Not exactly a rocket ship, but, it'll do the trick. If it's an automatic it all depends on the build date, some late 92 built F Bodys got the 4l60e (electronically controlled) transmission. Most likely it will just be a 700r4. They are a good transmission, but, somewhat notorious for burning out clutches after people mess with linkages, and TV cables. The biggest problem with these cars were door droopage. They need the bushings replaced somewhat frequently. It's not an issue with the hinges, the bushings are a wear item, and designed to be such. Bheinen, What exactly are you talking about when you say "money pit". The most expensive part on a Camaro older than 1992 is about $17.50:rolleyes:. GM parts are known for being incredibly attainable, and affordable. You're going to have a hard time convincing anyone with any real experience that any Camaro built prior to the LT1 has had a high cost of operation. As far as gas mileage; the conservatie ratings on the v6 Camaro by the epa are 17city 27hwy A Loyale 1.8l of the same era has conservative ratings of 19city 29hwy depending on transmission A Legacy of the era was worse at 17city 27hwy according to fueleconomy.gov And if you really are wanting to compare the mileage numbers on the V8s, and gripe about the terrible mileage they got, all I can say is: DUH. Nobody interested in a v8 Camaro has mileage as a top concern.