3eyedwagon

No problem. It was a good chat, and it's always nice to let the world know how much more than them I know. Just for your information, and personal enrichment; the 4.3 v6 IS a 350 re-engineered into a v6 configuration. Just think of a 2nd generation (1985 or later) 350 cid V8 Chevy missing cylinders number 3, and 6, and (most) only having a passenger side oil galley for the crank. That is a 4.3 v6. It is an engine handed to us directly from the gods, and designed for GOBS of low end, earth rotating torque. They will leave the line in 5th gear without much drama. Just something neat I noticed. I'm always telling Jeff (One Eye) that I'm not certain why they ever put more than two gears in my pickup. As far as the VG30; I'm pretty familiar with that little guy, and I've free spooled a few of them after the timing belts went. I had a pretty sweet little 1988 200sx s12 with a VG30 in it. They are a blast of a car that have been probably, luckily, saved from the "drifter" idiots by their IRS. Mine was a dream. Reasonably fast for 160 HP. The only thing I ever found funny was how those Nissans all smell funny after you run them very hard at all. I'll be sure to enjoy my S10. I'm not sure it would ever make it on a tow truck without dragging the license plate, roll pan, and back half off the bed off. Luckily I can keep it running with a couple sticks of Cloves (Blackjack works in a pinch), a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and some Murrays pomade. Enjoy your silly extended cab windows!

Bserk, All's well man! I can handle a good debate without getting too worked up. Just take a look at any of the Toyota threads on here, and you can see that. Those guys are even more brainwashed than you!!! Anyways, I'm just here to tell you that you are wrong, and I am right! I made the crack about timing belts just as a comparison. Timing belts are just one more thing to go wrong in my book. You can look at them as maintenance, but, realistically I think they should be looked at as a weakness. Belts will break far more frequently than a chain, and when they do; the vehicle they are in is worthless. I'd call that a reliability, and cost of operation issue just out of principle. On the other hand, the front of a 4.3 Chevy V6 is identical (as is much of the motor) to it's big bro 5.7 V8. That means that its' timing chain will probably still be turning shortly after the sun burns out. However, in the event that you should decide to change one; it should only take a decent mechanic about 75 minutes to do so. It's only a bit more work than changing a waterpump on a Small Block Chevy, and I've almost taught my 10 year old nephew to do that. As far as my modifications to my pickup; I only offered up those examples as a testament to the durability of these trucks. As you probably read, I've had two other 4.3 S10s which were left stock, and worked in stock form. They were awesome, they did everything I could've ever asked of them. But that's the best part about the one I've modified, and beat the snot out of. It is an even better testament to the durability of these trucks. The OP may never want to modify his, but, I can tell him with much certainty that both the 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" rear ends will handle, with great resiliency, all the nitrous fed, wide tired clutch drops I've ever thrown at them. So will the 4l60e autos, and the NV manuals. They were designed for heavier vehicles propelled by a V8, and that probably accounts for their durability. While you may not be interested in my questionable driving practices, I have to ask if you can offer me any such bona fides for many other vehicles on the market. Maybe the Ranger, maybe parts of the Toyotas( if only they'd made ANY horsepower in the 90s:rolleyes: ), but, I certainly haven't seen many hardbodys that have been modified, and run hard. It kinda makes me wonder if all of the ones that have been aren't just rotting in a junkyard somewhere after an overly expensive, and scarce part gave up. The fact that you can extensively modify an S10 speaks volumes about numerous things on them. Their cooling system will cool many more cubic inches than stock, and their drivetrains will handle sooooo much more power. So while other pickups may last wonderfully well when driven by old men , the S10 will last wonderfully well when driven by both old men, and idiotic young men who enjoy smokey burnouts! As far as your surprise as to the number of people waving the American flag for small pickups; there's probably a good reason for that. America invented the pickup, why wouldn't ours be better?

Why would he need to do that? He could just pull the rear axles completely. Just yank the axles (Hammer, roll pin punch, and a jack), the moustache bar, the diff, and the driveline. You just need to find a really good trans plug for the rear output on the trans. Or leave the driveline in, and put a propeller on the end of it! Best idea EVER!!!!

You mean the original post that I, and multiple others answered repeatedly, a majority of us with the same response. That being that the S10 is the best truck for this situation. It's cheaper, cheaper to operate, and amazingly when you can carry/tow heavier loads; light loads are really no big deal! Take a look at some of the answers, and you may get the jist of the "on topic" responses. You missed what I was pointing out about the S10. It doesn't take anything to get them to be great. That's what pretty much everyone who owns one knows. In fact, it takes about a $1000 less on the used market to get them to be better than their competitors. You don't need money, or knowledge, or work to get them to be superior to their rivals. You need a few more gallons of fuel, and a $95 TBI spacer will fix that. So you're still $905 dollars ahead, and you can do SO much more. As far as reliability, I'll let the THOUSANDS of them still on the road speak for that. I've gotten 198,000 out of mine while hauling everything I can imagine, jamming nitrous down its' throat, doing horribly cruel valve floating clutch sidesteps to produce dense clouds of tire smoke, and generally just making it a test mule for whatever I can think to throw at a SBC or 4.3. And it still runs like a top. In the end you may get an extra 30,000 miles over my S10, only after replacing your timing belt (seriously? Timing belts on a truck?) a half a dozen times on your Nissan or head gaskets almost as much on your Toyota, all the while I'll occasionaly adjust my valves because I decided to screw with what GM produced, something that could be easily avoided by just leaving it the heck alone . I'm ok with my truck not lasting quite as long, because while it was on the road it was so much better! Nah nah nah! Besides, once the engine croaks (which will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 300,000 at this rate) I'll just hop over to craigslist, and pick up one with 130k on it for $150.

^ Yeah. The S10 is pretty tough to beat. I've had (4) 2nd gens (1) with an Iron Duke (a nickname like that is no coincidence, and Volvo/Penta doesn't buy technology because it isn't reliable), and (3) with 4.3 V6s. Everything about them is superior in build quality. From rear ends to transmissions. I've worked the tail off a couple, and built my favorite into a pretty sweet little muscle truck. That Z Code 4.3 started seeing 80-100 HP wet shots of NOS at 120,000 miles. It's finally getting really close to rolling over 200,000, and I'm about due to adjust my roller rockers. Not many motors would live up to how I have driven that truck, and it is still plenty fast enough to kill me. It's a shame that Chevrolet ever pulled the plug on that platform, and probably a HUGE mistake. Now we are stuck with a Colorado with an inline-5. WTF???!??? At least the 4.3 lives on in vans, the w/t base pickup series, governement service vehicles, motorhomes, and a NUMBER of other things.

I'll take that bet. It must've taken all of those 30 years to become brainwashed enough to even attempt comparing a VG30 to the 4.3 V6. Or to even compare a VG30 to Fords 4.0 or even its 3.0. I'm not saying the VG30 is a horrible motor, but, I've worked on a few in my old 1988 200sx, and a 4.3 Chevy they are not. The S10 is simply better in every possible way. The only thing you have to brag about is mileage, and stupid extended cab windows, and with a little knowledge the S10 can beat you in the mileage. All that for on the cheap. The aftermarket is plentiful because they, and most people who actually USE their trucks have been intelligent enough to spot an amazing truck. The S10 is simply the best truck available in this niche if for no other reason than the 4.3 litre Chevrolet V6. Even if the rest of the truck lacked in any way (which it doesn't) the 4.3 V6 would still be good enough to haul the S10s to the top of this heap. EASILY.

If they sell Douglas tires at WalMart; that speaks volumes as to their quality. That place is a cesspool. I wouldn't go there if they had the only vaccines to prevent my @#$%^#$% from falling off. Anyways, Walmart tires: Don't put them on your car if you don't like the side of dark highways late at night. Them being noisy is the least of your problems. Have a good day!

John, You need to have someone with a bit more experience take a look at this thing, and figure out what your problem is. I've seen the 2" blocks installed wrong create massive camber issues. It's not real complicated, but, crap happens. Get some good pics of STRAIGHT DOWN on top of your struts with the hood up. Maybe we can spot it here. If that isn't your problem, I'd recomend more degrees in the block (no two of these cheaply built unibodys are identical, 15* blocks on my old white wagon were dead on the nuts, others have been off one way or the other), or checking your other components. Something could be bent.

No, If you lay them side by each you'll notice the ea82 axle is a fair amount longer than the ea81s. That's because the car is wider. You can however steal the doj cups from the ea82 axle, and put them on the ea81 axle. You'll gain about 1.5" of axle stretch length. Do a search. General Disorder has a good right up about it.

You're right Bob. That above post is wrong. Early 80s stuff is referred to as 2nd gen by most everyone I've ever known. As in 1980-1984, and of course there are ALOT of runovers, but, in general that roundier cooler body style. The later 80s (like 85 & later) stuff is 3rd gen. The square body ones all the way up to the Loyales. RX's. etc. That's all 3rd gen.

^ exactly. A cam plate would be kinda silly at this point since you have to drop below the stock mounting anyways. Plus I wouldn't want to modify that solid unibody mounting point on a car with the stress of a lift on it. You just need to be sure that the new upper mounting point of the strut is directly inboard from the stock mounting point at a 15* angle. If the strut towers supplied are incorrect in their angles, that is your problem. I've seen a few cars that required different angles, so 15* is just kinda the average "magic number". You may need to go a hair more, depending on your car. EDIT: You may also want to check if you have the adjustable front struts. If you do, and they are adjusted all the way up; you can probably get your camber back to acceptable by adjusting the strut lift nuts back down. Or set something really heavy on the hood.

So, since these are a money making deal of yours; this thread should probably be in the "for sale" or better yet "vendor" forum instead of here in the offroad section.

^ For the Horde? WtF traitor! Yeah. The 390s are pretty silly. I've heard stories of guys jamming 16s on 16.5" rims as an early redneck form of beadlocks :-\. I've only seen one set in person though, and they were used on a trailered trail rig. I didn't want to stare at how well the bead seated for too long, as they were kinda making me nervous being near them. Either way, seems kinda sketchy to me. Anyways, that's all totally irrelevant to the 390s because that bead design on them is incredibly worthless. I'd be nervous enough putting a proper 390 on there, let alone trying to cobblejam somthing else together. Get rid of em. Or tig weld 3 of them together for a pretty shop stool with a storage compartment.

If what someone has works for them; there really is no arguement. I think there is an obvious natural progression of how much you modify your Subaru, and it's all dependant on what you want/need, and how far you intend to take it. I've wheeled my wagon in a wide variety of configurations, and I look at each step as the next natural progression. 1: In stock configuration it was good. It did things that I never would have expected it to do. It was like a little Jeep that maneuvered great, went down the road great, handled alot of things well, and naturally had it's limitations. 2: The next natural progression was better tires, and as we all know; it resulted in better performance. 3: The next natural progression after that was a welded differential. This was a NIGHT and DAY difference. Even though the car was still stock, it was amazing how much better it performed off road. Obviously the on-road manners were already beginning to suffer with the bigger tires, and now a welded diff. However, for my wants, and needs; it was a good compromise. 4: The next natural progression to me was to build a lift for it. The first Subaru I had ridden in was a 4" lifted Hatch, and it was phenomenal. So, apart my car came, and on went a home made lift. With 4" of lift, the car still performed great. Other than the mechanical failures caused by stressing 26 year old parts; it performed better than I could have ever dreamed. Once I got used to it; I liked it more than I ever had before. It drove great on the highway, it wheeled way better than it ever could have stock, and it looks pretty cool. My favorite part is that I can take it to places that before I would have been concerned about scraping the door, or banging up the underbody, and it clears all those places without concern. Is it perfect? Hell no! But I'd like to think it's alot better suited for my wants. The end result for me was that that car was a little too nice to really be thrown to the wolves like I want to do, and it just isn't enough to make me happy. So, I'm on to the next natural progression. Build something better, bigger, and that I won't be worried about caving a door in on. If the next natural progression isn't your style; I can totally understand, and if what you have meets your wants/needs don't change it to keep up with the status quo. If people don't like what you're up to; they can go _____ themselves! From the airborn pics I've seen you definitely do your own style of Subaru driving, and you don't have crap to prove to anyone. But, I think some of what your confusing for people's defensiveness towards your comments may actually be misdirected or misrepresented passion. Once you've gone through the natural progression of lifting a dual range car, it really seems kinda silly to wheel one stock. I had a killer little dual range hatch that was phenomenal in alot of situations, but, every time I looked at it all I could think of doing to it was lifting it, and beating it to death. So down the road it went. It just couldn't compare to my lifted wagon. So, anyways. If you don't like the lifted ones, that's great. I admire you for wheeling yours stock. That's a hell of alot better than the bolt on kit pavement pounders I see alot of, at least in my eyes. But, I think you need to see both sides of the picture before totally discounting lifts. They aren't necessary, but, they are undeniably better if offroading is really what you want to do.

It is very possible that the hydo locking did any number of things that could cause the engine to not turn. A bent rod (most likely your probelm) will cause the piston to dig into the cylinder wall. If a piston fractured, it could also dig into the cylinder wall with the same results. If the rod broke, it could dig in somewhere with the same results. A bent crank (alot let likely in my experience, none with Subaru engines, but, with 90 degree V engines instead) can also seize an engine completely. My best suggestion would be to peak into the hole the pop created. You may be able to see the offending rod, and knock it loose with a little persuasion. Hydro locks suck man, and they happen so easily. I've seen temp switches whipe out a few engines by overloading them with fuel.

WTF?!? You gotta stop drinking and posting man!

Maybe stating your reason for no lift would help to clarify a little bit. But, one thing I know for certain is that I'd be embarassed if I'd ever spent a dime on purchasing a lift kit, maybe that's why people get defensive. People who have that much money into something tend to get a little defensive, whereas the people who build their own are probably a little more likely to not give two $***$ about anyone elses opinions. Especially people who bought theirs... From what I've seen, it gos like that with pretty much any form of vehicle modding. The guys that bought a full out fiberglass 32 Ford Highboy, and had it built at a shop are usually a little more touchy than the guy who actually spent the wrench time building their own. Same deal with the Jeep guys who pretty much built their Jeeps straight outta JC Whitney. Compare them to a guy that knows every nut, and bolt on his Jeep because he spent the time to source a bunch of Junkyard parts in order to save a buck. Another thing is that maybe lifts aren't really that necessary in your climate, and geography???? I'm just totally stabbing in the dark here, but, from most of the pics of yours I've seen; your area looks pretty dry, and fairly desert like. Sort of comparable to our Southwest. I've wheeled a non lifted Subaru here, and I know the biggest set back for a non lifted Subaru is that our ground is just so damn wet. Mud is pretty hard to avoid, even in late summer. If you can get that body up out of the mud, your are miles ahead of a non lifted car, so as far as that goes; it could just be a thing of necessity as well. Just a guess.

Clean everything really well, and YES. Shouldn't be a problem at all. Just crank her up!

We all must have magical clutches! Just drop it, and go, and you shouldn't have that much of a problem. As for this thread: Good idea! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

John, It looks to me like you have both a caster, and camber issue. Make sure that the blocks you cut are at 15*, and that the top of your strut is position DIRECTLY inboard (towards the engine) from stock. Any positioning towards the front or back will create problems. I've seen a few people install the rear out-board block of the front lift backwards, and it creates MASSIVE caster/camber problems. If the top of the strut is positioned any other way than directly inboard from stock; something in your lift is incorrect. If you can get some detailed pictures it would help diagnosing your problems. Other than that; the 15* degree 2" lift has worked well on all of the vehicles that I have seen with them. You don't really need ANY crossmember blocks with this design of lift, that is kinda the whole point of it. It's not the perfect lift, but, it is great for it's simplicity. Especially on a wheeler.

This = 235/75/15 on a 2 inch lift http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97397&highlight=2+inch+lift I'll let you do the math.

I'm still trying to figure out what GM you could be racing that weighs 4500 pounds. A fully loaded stock 60s Impala weighs under 4000, so is this engine in a truck? Either way, if he's back halved or has any good rearend geometry; you're probably in trouble. You both have around 520hp, but what are the torque numbers?

Bingo. I don't get out the leathers until I'm running over 30 volts Dual Shield. The smaller 110v machines will only put out 19-21 volts maximum. I don't use leathers at all for most kinds of stick welding, because it just doesn't spatter that much. Just wanted to point this out because I'd hate to see you invest the money in a nice set of leathers, and have them spend most of their time rolled up collecting dust like mine do.

Leathers aren't really necessary for the kind of voltage that machine will put out. I'm not saying it isn't going to throw any sparks, but, they aren't going to be the big gobbing balls of molten steel that you may be expecting. Especially if you are going to be using primarily hard wire. A good dense, high thread count loung sleave shirt will handle most anything that baby will throw off, and will cost you a fraction of the price. In fact once the weather warms up a bit, I usually weld in short sleaves. It helps me tan for summer! It also increases your UV intake, so I wouldn't really reccomend it.

It's a big step backwards from the previous Impreza in nearly every category. Even "Top Gear" said it felt horrible compared to previous models! Did I win anything???