subawoohoo

Could someone please post a pic of an ASV for an ea81. i see so many hoses i dont know which one it is. thanks a lot, Tyler J.

black or gold??

well if your super serious about off road-off road, id stay away form a turbo. you prolly know the reasons. but if you find one really cheap, doesnt hurt to start with. thats my 2 cents.

hey guys, this sounds to me like a intake manifold gasket leak. not head. i mean it could be but the chances are high that if it was head/gasket, there would be water in oil or vice versa, or water bubbling out of overflow right? i dunno im still a rookie, and sure the heads are known to have these problems, but intake gaskets are mucho easier to fix imo and much cheaper on a small budget..$$$ id check out the intake gaskets first, then proceed when clear. whatcha think? as for gaskets i wouldnt know as of yet. sorry. tyler j

yes i was, sorry. but its still the same procedure i believe. sometimes they slide right off, sometimes they put up a fight, you just have to break it free. you can try a wooden handle and whack it with a hammer, or perhaps a rubber (or similar material) mallet and give it a sharp thud. the socket trick should work as well. and if all else fails, get a bigger screw driver. tyler j

they'll be a little tricky but ya just get that bolt out and wriggle and pull ,wriggle and pulle and wriggle and pull, eventually it should slide right out. have fun, tyler j

well its usually suggested that when you dig that far into your engine you just replace the water pump, especially on an ea82 thats so finiky when it comes to overheating. also are you sure its the gasket? not the weeping hole? but depending on the mileage and the last time it was done, usually we replace the timing belts, the main front oil seal, check the condition of your tentioners/pulleys and right now it would be a great time to re-seal/replace your oil pump. i believe theres more but i cant think of it. its all just preventative maintenace but it really goes a long way in ensuring the soundness of your engine. do as much as you can. unless you want to tear it all apart again later, or replace your engine. have fun. tyler j

exactly, but it also i believe it has a few more guages, and the speedometer is straight, unlike mine, which is like a half moon, all curely. and it also looks a lot nicer, its got a clock nad some other stuff. but thats it, its only the dash thats different, so could i change out the wiring harness on the inside of the firewall and plug that all up or would it affect other stuff? or could i just add a few more wires and hot wire it? or i could just patch my grand canyon dash, and add a whole bunch of aftermarket guages to make up for it. i dunno, gimme options, thanks, tyler j

well im trying to make my 80 DL hatchback slightly more enjoyable to drive, so ive takin a few "goodies" from my 82 GL wagon to do it. i dont know if this has been covered but here ya go, if anyone else wants to do this. ok the main things, i swaped out the cyclops light/grill, and the steering column with TILT. 1.) the kick a $$ grill and cyclops eye. well the turn signals and the grill took a little effort to get on but a little grinding and a little widening of some holes and it went right in, unfortunately, some of the holeds dont line up but enough do so that its still strong. as for the cyclops eye i had to cut off the center brace that goes vertically in front of the radiator. and then it bolted right up. 2.) the front shocks/springs. yessss! three inch adjustables. and 3.) the steering wheel/column with TILT STEERING BABY!! . I dont know about all yall out there but i can sure fly arround in the dessert easier when the steering wheel isnt like a VW busses. this was a direct swap as well. but the only thing you need to swap over is the blinker/hazard controls as my plugs were different. and MABY the ignition if ya want. ALSO be sure to grab the rubber seal down at the fire wall because the holes were off by about a 1/4 inch. boy now im happy!! AND now, presenting the question!!! the GL has a nicer dash and obviously a nicer guage cluster. im pretty sure the dashes will swap but does any one know how i can hook up the differeent cluster. i found one thread regarding this but there was nothing about the wiring. so if anyone out there wants to help, i'll be more than happy to be happy about it. thanks tyler j

ok now ive been pondering that as well. but does the intake/carb have to be of of another ea81?? because i have a project hatch with a ea71 and i want to swap over basically everything from this wagon to it, but not the jerry rigged pos carb its got on there now. im doubting it, and i havn't even looked at them yet but would that work? just swap the intakes and carbs, or at least swap the carb?? thanks. or should i just go to a junkyard, and grab a intake/carb from a ea81. if so is there a particular year i should look out or watch out for?? or will any ea81 fit? thanks a bunch, tyler j

sweet, ok now if it is indeed the choke, would that also cause it to occationally rise up to about 3 - 4 grand while driving kind of like the throttle sticking? i understand at startup but while driving?? when it gets warmed up it usually settles down at about 2500, but again it really varies, not badly but everytime i stop the idle's different. thank you, tyler j

exactly what i thought, thanky. tyler j

ok now theres a buch of pics of the terd. now there ya go. on a side note, the last pic, of the bushing thing, its a bushing for the shifter it rests at the pivot point underneath. does anyone have one theyd like to sell me, or could i find one EASILY locally, im getting annyed searching. and how important is it to the shifting quality?? would it cause me to grind gears if it were gone?, could one be made out of polurethane goop? thanks again, tyler j

well, i picked up a new car and the carb has been acting up. its an 82 gl with a carter carb. anyway, it idles too high. so i've traced it down to this thing. (seen below) i dont know what that is, maby part of an altitude or warm up cold start thing, but im guessing that its the problem. symptoms.-- when its running, it idles too high, about 2 grand, but it varies. now if youll notice this little bugger has teeth on it and when i rev it, the screw adjustment sticks on the upper teeth causing it to rev up, and stay there. now the only way this thing moves is when the flapper in the carb moves, so does that mean that the vacume selenoid thing to the left of it is going south? or a leak perhaps? whatcha guys think?? damn, it seems that i cant manage attachments so ill upload them soon. sorry! thanks tyler j

thanks but I would rule it out. when i first got the car, the same tire was siezed so i relieved the pressure and got it home using ONLY the E-brake. then like as soon as i used the pedal, it siezed. and again when i went out for some playin in the dirt, it siezed and i had to get it home using only the e-brake again. so i think its hydraulic. so hurm, could it be just that its been sitting too long? kinda gummed up, or i woke it up and its still kinda angry? perhaps i just need to clean and/or work it in again. well i went oustside and fiddled arround with it again and i noticed that the HH cable was rather tight. so i loostened it up thinking that the idiot f***** it up as well (seeing as the reason i got the car was because he thought the tranny was blown, even though i knew the clutch cable just wasnt adjusted properly.) anyway, i took it for a test drive and well two - three miles later its still fine. now i dont know why if that was the problem, only one wheel would lock up, so im not getting my hopes up. but hopefully!! LOL well any other ideas subie masters??? also please be sure to check out my other thread concerning my carb. coming soon. thanks again, tyler j

Sorry, MC - Master Cylinder and HH - Hill Holder.

well i got me a "new" wagon a few days ago, '82 GL. and i had a problem with the front left caliper siezing up, so i relieved the pressure via the bleeder valve and got it home, anyway it siezed up a few more times later that day, so i removed the old caliper and replaced it with one off of my hatch. i took the car out and all was fine for a few miles, i was going in reverse, turned the wheels and jabbed the brakes, and the "new" caliper siezed up again. what would it be, HH or MC?? im not sure if it's the MC because i dont know if its locking up the rear left wheel as well because well i dont think the rears are adjusted properly. anyway, im slightly irritated because it made me walk home in the rain to get one little tool. i missed lots of mud playing time! but i am kind of happy that its not the caliper. any ideas? does the MC need rebuilt or maby bled? or could it be the HH getting wonky? thanks a bunch. tyler j

thanks a lot. well i dont know why but i havnt thought of the carb, ill check that out. but i beliueve that he rebuilt it already. BY THE WAY, what is the wiered contraption that has a nipple type thing on it that sits right behind the spring and throttle on the carb??? thanks GD. and as for vacume lines, there are two disconected but i cant figure out where they go! one has suction though. ill continue checking that tomorrow. the only thing that really bugs me is the fact that the throttle sticks while driving! whats the concensus on that??? thanks, tyler j

whats up yall? ok, well yesterday i got me a 1982 gl wagon. ea81, DR 4spd 4wd, lookin pretty good. well i started her up and it reved up pretty high. so a few blips of the throtle brought that back down, but when i drive it, the throttle sticks, but only when i drive, not in neutral. it doesnt get floored but it rises to about 4000 rpms. so i cant drive it yet. what could it be? it doesnt sound like the cable, but more like a vacume or selenoid type of problem. any ideas? also when it settles down, it stays at about 2000 rpms. and one more, the left front brake calliper siezes occationally. how can i fix this? take it appart and clean it? rebuild? its quite irritating as well. and three of the doors dont open from the outside one at all. is this normal? normal problem that is. i know ill just have to tinker with it but while im asking, ill through this out there as well. thanks alot, im sure theres more though.

you should also look into either replacing your brake line, with new rubber or some stainless braided line. thatll help with squishy brake feel, unless it is stiull air in your system.

also just on a "unseen damage" side of this, inspect really well, because my hatch was in a MINOR accident, (left front side as well as drivers door,) and the front is all back together, but i noticed that the door and jam were pushed back a few mm, so shutting it isnt' as smooth as it should be. just go eagle eye on i and make sure its all straight, not that you can do anything about that but if anything goes wonky, you can suspect this was the cause. such as doors not closing right, or a wiered pull while driving.

yea sounds like it wasnt too bad. i mean stupid wise. Besides you did it on a gravel road, alone (i think). i do that kind of stuff in a desert where if i do any damage it will be to only me, and my property. and also, you wont learn to be a good driver just putting arround out there now would ya? but still and all we all make mistakes but as long as you made a mistake im gonna bug ya about it, or at least untill i do something like that. but i guess i expect it so. eh! AND a coupe?! those are nice, you should get a beater or "less nice" car to fart arround in. lol take care, tyler j

so you tipped your car. ROFLMAO man thats too much, i wish you had pics. LOL hope your ok though. what were you doing, and why? i hope you wern't on the street, if so ill be mad at you. first off what color was the oil? i dont see what would've been in your car. tranny fluid? are you sure it wasn't a drink you had in the car? <----sounds like it. lol just make sure the resivoir isnt cracked, and crawl under and check the lines. explain the story please! tyler j

HAHAHA thats hilarious. the looks youll get on the road will be priceless. But lookin really good, what are the specs? tyler j

yea the problem with lettting it idle is people are almost always in a hurry to, and it usually gets too damn hot in the car to sit there, so yea a turbo timer will let the engine idle for a set ammount of time so you can just leave it. nifty little gadgets. yup just let her cool down a bit, especially after hard driving. its just a normal sound dont worry about it.