subawoohoo

ok good, thanks a lot. yea apparently somebody knew what they were doing, the rear diff is gone. I,d be kind of scared to sell it as i dont know whats wrong with it, i dont wanna rip someone off. on the other hand, on the windshield, it sais "runs and drives. PS, it also has a good turbo in it, if anyone needs it. are there any problems with installing the EJ tranny? i hear a lot about just keeping the dl trannys, but i assume thats because of the D/R. any problems other than the general oblonging mounting holes, or shortening the driveshaft. how about axles?

I was at a "Pull your part" today and i found a beautiful, i believe 1988, gl10 wagon with a 5spd, fulltime 4wd tranny with a diff lock. the diff lock switch is a little knob that turns right and left if that helps any. now the car has 205,000 miles on it, the engine was filthy, covered in oil, which is basically... "normal." now for my questions. should i be worried about the mileage? what tends to go on these? is it semi easy to refurbish.. new seals/bearings? how good are these trannys for speed and mild rally type conditions? do they hold up? what is the front/rear split. 90/10? 70/30? 50/50? my plans are to put a ej22 engine into my hatch. would it be better to through a legacy tranny in there or are the older gen ones prefered. also i dont really care about a D/R, im not looking for a rock crawler? your, yes your input would be super appriciated, Tyler J.

well that was my first guess, but i thought that cams couldnt be switched.

miles. the "bad" crack is inside the exhaust ports inbetween the valves right? well my crack was under the exhaust valve, inbetween the valves and it looked like it had a "shelf" that i didnt really like. i really dont have a doubt that this is a bad head, i'd just like to know how to tell whether ones bad or not. anyway i just got back fromt a "Pull Your Part" and i ripped off a head that had those cracks in BOTH exhaust ports, so i politely threw it back. thanks, ps. i havnt seen you on in a while, good to see you back. Tyler J.

perhaps your timing belts were off a hole bunch of degrees. hurm, thats quite a thinker. it sounds like the timing wasnt right, so if your valves and piston wernt "n'sync" i would guess timing. was this a problem on the original engine as well?

ok i guess that when it was cranked by hand, someone spun the engine backwards. i just dont see how you could have sticky valves, first on the 1 and 2 then on the 3 and 4. so im guessing the "tester" had a little too much . am i close?? Tyler J.

Exactly. When Ford sells an excursion, or when chevy sells a suburban, they tell you along with the tow rating, the 0-60 times. Does that mean that they are selling a race truck? No. It means that they are telling you how long it takes for it to reach 60mph, because apparently that impresses people, and it is a SELLING POINT. Any car sold, go search and i guarentee you can find the 0-60 times. So why the bitching. Subaru didnt sell the WRX as a drag car they simply told you what the car can do, and if it can go 0-60 in 5.8 seconds, then why not tell the consumer. Sure racing arround is not good for the car, but that goes for ALL cars. Subaru advertized, but it is COMPLETELY up to the consumer to know that dumping the clutch will hurt the car. Besides why do you think on all television comercials, at the bottom it says, "Do not attempt, professional driver on closed course." If someone blows up there tranny by racing, and complaion because it couldnt handle it, simply, they're stupid.

THIS JUST IN! ok well every 10 minutes i run back out to the garage and flashlight arround in the head looking for the culprit, and i believe i found it. I looked at the exhaust on one side of the head, all the way arround the inside (valve open) and it looked fine, then i switched to the other exhaust side, valve open, looked all arrond, and directly beneath the crack inbetween the valves, on the "other side" of the valve, there was a crack running vertically towards the guide. it didnt connect to the guide or to the valve seat it was just there, and it looked to be bad. Is this the "bad" crack. if so woohoo i found it. thanks, Tyler J.

Well I dropped my ea82t into my gl10 last week. Ok good so far, untill i layed down to tighten my exhaust. I noticed coolant dripping off the passengers side head exhaust nut, also it was pooling arround the gasket. So i assumed it was THAT head blown as theres no other way to get coolant into your exhaust right? So i ripped the engine out again, and when i took off the exhaust, it had about 3-5 cups of fluid in there. It wasnt high enough to leak out either of the exhaust/head flange it was just collected down in the bottom. So seeing as i saw it pooling out of the passenger side gasket only, that would mean it was coming from that head. right? ok good. So I tore off the head, and i saw nothing out of the ordinary, small cracks in-between the valves, but they didnt look too bad. but i see nothing wrong. its kind of irritating. ive never seen a bad head up close so i cant tell if this one is bad. the cracks are only inbetween the valves, i dont think they touch the valve seats, and i cant tell if they extend to the guides, to inspect them do yall usually take out the valve springs? i dont know, if i cant tell visually ill just take it down to get it checked out. thanks Tyler

loooove the battle scars! it looks great. except for the hood, thats tacky. tyler j

thanks for the check. well i looked at it and i didnt see any clip or retaining mechanisim. i couldnt see much so, ill grab a flashlight and check it out tomorrow. i tryed pulling it out but i couldnt. thanks a bunch tyler j

p.s waht do you mean reset the gear mesh?

crap really. thats soo damn gay. is there anyone who can confirm this, that it actually has to be torn apart. if so i think ill just wait untill i can either get me an EJ engine and tranny, or a ea82t and a D/R 5 speed. wich'll suck because i wanna drive it. any help would be appriciated. tyler j

bump, bump bump it up.

ok all talk, i took it out again, and i think it is pretty wiggly. can you replace the bearings from outside the tranny? that would be great!! i was looking at it and it looks as though its possible. any of you know? in the future id like to swap drive trains but in the meantime, ill just live with this one. thanks a bunch. tyler j

they didnt say to get a pushbutton S/R 4wd tranny. you can get a gl tranny thats dual range but has no diff lock.

Craig-- well hopefully that is the reason its leaking. no i didnt grease it. it makes sence though. are you supposed to? maby thats the reason. you live and learn right? subaskeet-- yes and no yes you are taking it too literally, but then again. every time i fix one leak, another one pops up. so im contiually leaking more and more. but ill rip her out again, check for any scoring or marks, and try the ole lube. thanks, tyler

sorry 1980 hatchback, S/R 4speed, 4wd.

Ok heres the problem. i replaced my axle/tranny oil seal on the right side. Twice! then i dropped the tranny, replaced a few seals and a gasket, put it back in, drove it about a total of 5 miles, Now the damn axle seal is leaking again!!! So is there something im doing wrong? unfortunately the dust cover is missing, but i havnt been in that dusty of conditions. so could it be the axle? the output shaft? or something else? its driving me batty! i mean, i have about 8 quarts of tranny fluid soaking into my driveway from all the leaks. anything i need to be doing? thanks a bunch. Tyler J.

i think you just need to adjust your cable. i doubt you damaged anything, as long as it slid in there easily. Do the gears engage when the engines off?? if so it'll be your clutch. usually however it doesnt grind unless your trying to go into reverse, but in my opinion, thats what it is. i myself just got a car for a few bucks because the owner thought the clutch/tranny was toast, but all it needed was adjusted. give it a shot. i think thats all it will be.

Well just a clarification, i meant that the OLD ones were adjustable, and adjusted all the way up, then when he switched in the non adjustable (im assuming), monroe ones, it dropped it. or they're just the wrong ones. dunnno. tyler j

hum wiered, all i can think of is that the origional struts/springs were the 3inch adjustable ones and were cranked all the way up. Hows that sound? all i can think of, unless they were wrong ones.

sorry, but i believe that is exactly what they are, Chilton/Haynes. i noticed some of the pics and paragraphs were the same. maby your just warming up to Chilton and Haynes.

well white smoke usually means your burning water, however, ive also heard of cars that have been sitting a long time spewing white smoke for a while. definately get that oil changed and filled properly. is the engine a turbo xt motor. if so you should try putting in some good fresh gas, new plugs, definately a new fuel filter, and just a good tune up. cant say much else yet. tyler j

ok there is a tube, abour 3/4inch that goes somewhere under the head, up to a valve looking thing. is it that, or is it the little tube that goes from the top of the head to the back of the intake manifold. im assuming it was the valve with the rubber hose, on a bracket on the PASSENGER head. i read somewhere that it was on the drivers head.:-\ boy that was fun. so how can i tell if this one is bad? appearence, just replace and hope. thanks a lot, tyler j