MilesFox

The usual suspect is the head gasket. Rings never go bad. Head gaskets always go bad. In the world of subarus, anyway. But if your mechanic is an old school GM kind of guy, the subaru is a whole different bag for him.

go to the youtube channel (www.youtube.com/milesfox") and click the subscribe button. you may need to register a login at youtube to do so. you should be able to log in at youtube with a google username, i.e gmail account or other google service. It will send you an email when new videos are posted.

you should replace it. think of how many failed power steering systems are a result of wrong fluid. japanese vehicles-ATF Ford(truck)-Type F GM- clear stuff you are used to

I m ay have a tape with cam towers somewhere. I did attempt to video a cam tower rebuild (replace hla's) but i was by myself and was too messy to wrangle the camera, and put it down half way through. I have a spare engine on a stand that i may tear into for the sake of videos, that would get into HG and top end service. you can subscribe to my channel. but be patient with the release of the next video(s) The next installment will be axles and wheel bearings/brakes The oil pump should be covered in the existing videos.

I am wondering if they never made them, as the doors are frameless, and if the door was open, then the window rolled up, it would hit the guards when you close them. IT would be nice if t hey do exist. my 1st gen legacy drips on me if i crack the window open when it's raining.

I converted my fwd 5spd carb 3door to ej22, full time 4wd, and 5 lugs. I had a whole car to donate the drivetrain, and the ej22 came pre packaged with wire harness and bellhousing adapter. I built mine in 6 months, including bodywork, and restoring the individual parts. But i have been working on soobs for 15 years, and had over 40 of them. if you found a wrecked or non-runner 4wd, the parts will mostly be a direct swap I was younger trying to ;have fun' building subarus, but it was more like driving some junk and getting into trouble. But by now i have the perfect build, and i am satisfied with it my project cost: $350 for the 86 3door $300 for the donor xt6 part-trade with a buddy for the engine about a 100 bucks in stainless steel bolts, for purpose of restoration about 150 in paint and body products thousands of dollars worth of labor that were free to me doing the work myself. The formula for cost does not work the same for everyone. wether you have a place to do it or not, wether you have donor car(s) laying around or not, wether you can do the work yourself, or not. But really, if you have several subarus laying around on your property, the rest is playing with legos. but if you don't, then you are buying whole cars or individual parts for a build my 300 dollar car, now that it is built, is still a 300 dollar car by book value standards. The equity in my project is my own enjoyment. The car to a subaru enthisiast is worth about $2000. It can be worth up to $3500 if i installed performance struts, brakes, tires and wheels, and that price tag would reflect the parts on it versus the car itself.

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

OF course, there is a write up:brow: it is really easy to find. It is posted all over the place. search for "ea82 timing belt check and replacement" If you have any questions, just ask me. I wrote it.

maybe go for a well preserveved first gen legacy, or 95-96 legacy. OR a up to 99 impreza. you would be in an older car, but possibly less milles, not too shabby, and paid for with cash(cheap). You would not have the same problems associated with the later subarus. many will have opinions that these were the best subarus made so far.

leave one of the back windows 1/4" open, just enough that it still meets the rubber seal, and this will make wedging the window easier as far as getting your arm through next time, but no one would readily see it just looking at the car.

Please let us know what you find out

wedge the window open, stuff your arm in past the elbow, and unlock it. This is easiest done on the rear doors. Subarus are stupid easy to break into or steal, if you were into theft. But for your own sake, it's harder to lock yourself out than it is to get into. you can star the car from under the hood without being in the car, as long as you can get the hood open. you can drill out the lock pin and turn the ign switch with a screwdriver. hooray for frameless doors

I have seen this and wondered the same thing. Apparently it was like this on purpose, for whatever purpose.

yeah, boxer3main, i get it:popcorn:

tighten it up. sounds like the clutch is dragging just enough to turn the synchros. I bet you have trouble in reverse, too. tighten it, but not too tight, but just enough to take the slack out of the cable, that's all.

the rear differential should be clearly marked with a label that will show the final drive gear.

if your car was non turbo, and the 5mt you used is not turbo, then the rear gear should be 3.9 and match anyway. the problem you are having is operator error- you should not use 4wd on dry pavement, and not engege/disengage it while turning. This is due to the fact that there is no real transfer case, and no center differential. All of this is normal. everything will be fine and nothing is broken as long as you dont break th e rules about 4wd however, in anything that is not dry pavement, you can shift into 4wd on the fly, and into low range under 45mph while clutching. there is no speed limit on 4wd. you can go 80 mph on the highway in a rainstorm if you like.

a feeler gauge, new valve cover gaskets, and a haynes manual will get you by. It would be a good idea to replace the oil pump seals as well, the parts are cheap enough.

maybe you have a bad intake gasket, causing a lean burn on one side, and allowing coolant to be ingested in the combustion, but without losing compression. i am assuming dual port intake, as you stated mpfi. what year? a code 3 is most likely an identifier code for the car's market. you would have a combination of long and short flashes for a 2 digit trouble code, which is readable by using the test connectors. Test connectors should remain unplugged during normal operation.

they would outlast their recommended service interval anyway. Usually an ea82 will go a good 135-145,000 miles on its original belts before they break, many that i have seen that have never been serviced before and sat around a lot in between. You would have the chance to notice anything wearing out with no covers, versus something wearing out, and then having to remove the covers to see what broke. Ditch them now, and you will thank yourself later if you decide to replace the warter pump, oil pump seals, or cam seals. Thank yourself for never having to remove the crank pulley, as sometimes it is difficult to install the bolt and torque properly and it falls off.

This type of HG failure is due to corrosion of the metal gaskets near a water jacket, where combustion gasses(exhaust) pressurize the cooling system, forcing it out the overflow. then you get bubbles, coolant loss, and then overheat, then head warpage. the 'traditional' way for a hg to go bad is loss of coolant for whatever reason first, then an overheat, then a warpage of the head/gasket.

Think about what the wheel bearing seals have to go through:brow:

look for a fitting under the plastic air intake tube, between there and a valve cover, i would presume.

This is the year that subaru moved from composite to MLS head gaskets mid 97 for 2.2 sohc, and for 2.5 DOHC in forester and GT. There have been revisions of the head gaskets that supercede old part numbers, so if you purchase a new gasket for those engines, they are the current updated design with more layers or refined design than what originally came on those engines for those years.

Just below the half mark, on average. same for the 94 legacy. 195 degree thermostat. I would only worry about it if it's fluctuating more than where it is on the gauge if it is steady.