MilesFox

Probably riding the clutch on decel, and using the clutch to hold position on a hill. I hold the clutch in at stops if i anticipate moving agian. if i sit there for more than 30 seconds, i'll shift to neutral, but shift back into gear as i anticipate trffic to move again.

the plug will be metric. a 1/4 npt could work, use plenty of thread tape

Likely you tripped a MAF code while the hose was disconnected. you should be able to clear the code with an obd2 scanner

Did you unplug the maf sensor? perhaps the IAC hose is disconnected. check for the inch diameter hose on the bottom side of the intake boot from the iac to near the airbox. I'll bet you missed that one.

Investigateto see if a weber carb has been installed. this is a common swap, as it is much more simple and tunable than the stock hitachi, which relies on a lot of electrical and vacuum solenoids to function properly.

there is no such thing as backpressure. it is called scavenging, or exhaust pulse reflection, which creates a charging effect. stop confusing people. Otherwise what you mean to say is 'exhaust restriction' (this comment in general in response to the word 'backpressure', not aimed at any one person or comment))

It is possible the valves are colliding if the cams are out of phase to eachother. be sure to use the proper marks. a cam can only be rotated during belt assembly if the other cam is not spring with any valves open. When the camps line up in phase, th one cam will have open valves. It is ok to rotate the cam backwards to line it up. Avoid rotating the crank backwards.

the first time i had pulled an engine, it was a subaru. now look at me, that is all of my auto experience in 15 years is ezclusively subaru. The 2.2 from 95 and earlier is going to be your most reliable option, to either swap with a know n runner or repair the current engine.

You would need a tool that fits inside of the bearings, to pop them out from the inside of the knuckle, as demonstrated in the video.

If you are clever, swap over a whole ea82t with harness and all. I get what you want to do. the turbo up pipe will fit, you would have to invent plumbing for the spfi throttle. keep boost low within 7 psi. I have no experience with a project like this. If you dig the archives you might find something about adding a 2nd injector to come on during boost. I have seen an example of an ea82 with CIS from bosch installed, but not turbo. This was an mpfi manifold and heads on a n/a block. the spfi block has 9. compression, so you would be better off with a carb block 8.5 as ea82t engine is 7.7 and kinda weak on the low end. The CIS injecotrs threaded into axle nuts welded onto the intake, as the cis injecotr was the same thread as the axle nit. People will tell you no it's not a good idea to turbo an spfi. Keep in mind to not over boost it as it should run relieble at normal boost if you keep the cooling systerm happy.

crushed the oil pump, torque converter seated correctly? Catch your mechanic before he dips on you!

I care. Please post. Meanwhile, i will share with you my FWD<4wd swap in an 86 gl coupe. Don't come into a subaru forum expecting people to not care. This isn't your local facebook stance bro scene, but real subaru entusiasts. Especially afro engineered home brew stuff because you can't just catalog order a bunch of bolt-ons for these cars.

This is half true. at the III mark, one of the ams is newutral, and the other is inder spring. you will have to rotate 360 to make the other cam neutral, as the first one is now under spring. This only applies when the belts are engaged with crank

harbor freight works, you just have to orient the arms all cray, such as the bolt points all the way in the middle so you can get it narrow enough for the engine studs,

An ea82 5spd will swap in if you make a little bit of tunnel clearance and swap over the 2 piece driveshaft and make a carrier bearing mount. you will need a non-turbo ea82 5sd that has the correct 23 spline axle stub. Otherwise, when using the 4spd, you can drill out the holes on the ea81 flywheel to a larger diameter to match the pattern on the ea82 engine. The pattern is the same, the holes i believe should be 12mm, but you WILL NEED EA82 FLYWHEEL BOLTS as the ea81 are smaller diameter. The timing marks are about 30 degrees off with an ea82 flywheel, so you will have to transfer tour 0 deg mark, although the center bore hash mark !!! is the same orientation.You should be able to use a whole ea82 flywheel withthe 4spd disc and pp. or ea82 fly and pp with 4wd disc. 5spd disc is totally different The clearance issue with the disty is mainly the installation process, where it is easier to drop the engine in and then install the disty. You can swap the MC from the donor car , being an AT, as it has less lines and fittings and no hill holder which may improve clearance. In my experience, i cut off a tab on the disty and clocked it way cray, enough th rearrange the wires on the cap to keep firing order correct. The timing belts covers may be a tight fit between the frame rails. With ea82's i recommend removing the covers as it take s a lot of labor away from changing belts, say from more than an hour to less than 15 minuts if you are proficient. Otherwise, just cut off the bolt tabs on the outer edge. You will have to swap the ea81 pitch bar mount to the ea82 bellhousing to use the brat's pitch stopper bar you shouldl use all the ea82 anciliaries and make the ea82 steering pump fit the ea81 lines. Use an ea82 radiator as it will fit, and the hose orientation will be correct. Here is a hint: the ea82 upper and lower radiator hoses are the same part number. I have done a few of these, athough the last one was a good 10 years ago. But this is how i learned my subarus. Judging by your post, you know your subarus and know what you are doing, if only you could see a live example to know what to expect. Good luck with your project; i will be following.

I have always use permatex ultra grey, but any grey flavor or generic brands like 'mega grey' are all equivalent. These sealants ideal for mating surfaces containing oil.

use an anaerobic or ultra grey sealant and avoid rtv silicone

although the solenoids can be makingvacuum sounds and working properly, check for any disconnected hose or broken nipple going to the trans. the diaphragm is a push-pull mechanism where the solenoids are ganged and operate like a dpdt swithc in opposite orientation, one off, on e on, alternately. ssumingg the vacuum is working, follow the advise of reversing or jacking the car. 4wd should be engaged or disengaged when the sttering is straight on, while stopped, or rolling. Sometimes the car will have to roll a bit to engage or disengage. If all of your heater selects only blow out of the dash vent on every setting, check for the vcuum line between the canister and the manifold as that is easy to knock loose and miss seeing it.

my neutral switch is not connected. the obd2 port does work and i get some 10 codes. i do have an exhaust with o2's, although i get codes. Mine does what yours done intermittently. Hope this helps you in your process-of-elimination troubleshooting.

what is mistaken for a oil leak from the HG is likely the cam tower o-ring.

put the tower on withthe roll pin on the cam face at 12 o clock. Using grease or assembly lube helps a lot with cam follower installation. Do replace the o-ring between the cam tower and the head

With my swap. my ign cuts out at about the same rpm, somehow in limp mode. I only have ign, fuel, and ground connected to run, still have to connect all the sensors. But now and again, it will rev out all the way, This is intermittent, and i don't know if i have a loose wire grounding out, or if the ECU is going in and out of limp mode on its own. my engine is 01 imprea in 86 coupe. I do not have my vss connected at all when it does decide to rev out. This akes it annoying to drive since rx trans is geared so low i have to shift rapidly just to get up with traffic, and i run out of gear at about 80 mph with no rpm's past 4500

I was going to sat bad maf, ans it will misfire and stumble horribly, like you will have to feather the throttle just to get it moving. Also clean or inspect the IAC if the idle does not settle down right away