MilesFox

if that is the case, then go get the vac solenoids and lines off any pushbutton 4wd to use the diff lock if the transmission is presented without it's donor car. otherwise, grap that part from the donor.

with all the work involved it may just be easier to pull the trailing arm with the axle from a junker. cnances are if the DOJ was cut off, then the 4wd nut and drum are seized(rusted) to the splines. just get a junkyard part, and change the bearing in that if you feel its necessary. but i would only worry about that after you replace the part and see how it drives

everything will match up the same. 3.9 hear and 23 spline axle. get the trans and the shifter. te crossmember, flywheel, clutch and driveshaft fiththe same. if you are lucky to find a full time rx tranny, the old 4wd shifter button will work the diff lock, but you would need a 3.7 diff and 25 spline axles to swap an rx tranny. save the solenoids and the vac assembly for the pushbutton for later use, to fix another car, or to sell to someone who cant find the part

i usually bump up to as much as 25 or 27 deg. 25 deg is just fine on pump gas. spfi and carbs are set for 20 deg. this helps her rev out inthe higher rpms and runs more smoothly with my open exhaust. in my conjuncture of various exhaust setups i find you can tune the timing to the exhaust pulse. you can almost hear the exhaut pulse move up and down the pipe and then tune it to where the pulse is right at the end of the pipe. i run a 2 inch cherry bomb immediately after the y pipe and then 1 3/4 or 2 inch pipe to the rear axle, then end there or turn out to the side how is gatlinburg? i went through there twice on 2006 and 2007 BABE rally. "Nug" from the board here went on this trip too. i was the one in the crazy toyota camper withthe u-haul trailer behind it, following the beat up VW van withthe words in tape 'show me your I' after the park rangers made them take off the t,the t, and the s

(95 legacy)this last wednesday when we had 15 inches in madison i got my legacy stuck behind the truck stop in madison. the car stalled and when i tried to start it the battery was dead. i looked under the hood and the alt belt was wet, and there was snow packed up past the crank pulley from underneath. enough so that it cased the timing belt to jump(hydro tensioner) i guess this would be an arguing point for open vs covered timing belts. this would have been my only other failure since having a loose rag under the hood in my rx. although a skid plate woud have prevented this! anyway the car was stalled and not stuck, but inaccessible to anything short of an f-350 with 4wd. it would have been either impossible or too expensive to have the car moved to somewhere out of the snow, so i had to come back the next day and fix it where it sat. this is where the open belts paid off. all i had to do was remove the tensioner and its 2 bolts, and that's it! i used the vice and some baling wire at the diesel sh0p next door to compress the tensioner, and then drove my car 200 miles immediatelt afterward. she walked right out of the hole where she sat the ironic thing the same car did the same thing exactly a year ago in the same place. but it had its covers then, and now they are naked since that paticular repair

locking the diff on a full time tranny makes it behave as a part time unit engaged in 4wd, same handling, same dont use on dry pavement. if the full time center diff is non viscous then it is possible to have as much as 100% to the front or rear, or anywhere in between. the 87 rx with lsd and diff not locked can still spin one tire on the front. with my car, diring hard cornering WOT, the inside front tire wants to peel out before the back end wants to come around the full time trans, if it came from a turbo, will have 3.7 gear ratio and 25 spline axles. if your gl-10 was a manual then its a direct swap. automatics are also 3.7 gear but the 3at has 23 spline axles, the 4eat has 25 if the gl1- was a single range push-button 5spd, then the vac solenoids and all that hook up the same to the full time tranny for the diff lock. on my particular car(since now has been parted out) i had the rx driveline in a gl10 wagon. the center console had the diff lock switch, but the plug was different. i simply kept the 4wd shifter knob off to the side and its button to lock the diff

in my 4wd conversion sedan with fold down gl-10 seats i can fit an engine crane, a spare ea82, 2 tool boxes, a weekend's luggage and my happy rump roast across 700 miles at 27 mpg. and this leaves room on the roof rack and trunk luggage rack for whatever i pick up along the way. in a loyale wagon we fit an xt motor and transmission, a legacy motor and transmission, rear suspension, front suspension, xt rear suspension, tools, luggage, other random parts, and a full set of tires(on the roof)

85-94 all fit the same, for all ea82. the only differences between models would be the height from 2wd and 4wd, 85-86 were adjustable, but they will all fit the same for any wagon, sedan, 3door, and 4 cylinder xt, and in place of anything with air struts. any other differences would be spring rates although any springs will fit any struts the only thing that wont fit the same is xt6 and ea81's

febders, bumper, and hood are the same. the only thing different is the headlight bucket and bezels. in fact, i believe the headlight buckets themselves swap with ea81 and just for confusions sake, you meant to say 3-door. hatch refers to ea81

WD-40. it may be no good for rusty bolts, but window tint is definately one of its 1000's of uses. it will soften the sticky and make it so its not as sticky as well, you could scrape it off with your fingernail rather easily

you shorted out the single green wire at the back of the radia. i did this once and had to backfeed power thru that wire to get the ecu to come on. then i found the fuse some months later, after turning on my car witht he fog light switch.

just to throw this out there, and so that you know, the 3 bolts in the middle of the head are shorter than the rest. SO, if you have the short bolts on the outer edged and the longer bolts in the middle, there is your bottoming out issue, and probably what is wrong with your torque each time if you had not known or noticed this before.

wisconsin got hit pretty hard as well. i drove around all day indestructible as ever, pulling people put of intersections and driveways, just to have my timing belt slip on the way to work. (95 legacy) this happened going in deep snow, the snow is packed in half way up the crank pulley so i threw a deep cycle battery in my wrechked 88 sedan and resurrected it from the side of the house where it has not ran for the past 2 1/2 months.

i went with jared to go look at this legacy. jared didnt know what driveline it was until the day we went to go look at it. aside from the front fender rusted away where the marker light goes, and the driver seat belt not retracting, the car runs just fine, about 175,000 miles it has a *slight* wheel ebaring whirr but not loud and not enought to throw off the handling. the steering wheel is a degree off and the car pulls slightly to the rignt, but not enough you go in the ditch if you let off the wheel. there is some minot collision damage to the hood and radiator support and the ac system has been removed(probably because of this) there is random duct tape on the injector wires and one on the oil sender wire, and some oil on tip of the motor from where it leaks past the sensor aside from the aesthetic problems, this is what i noticed: first of all i showed the owner there are 2 dipsticks, wheich he almost filled the wrong ones on his other legacy. i mentioned to him that it is possible for fluids to leak across the diff to the trans or vice versa. he did not think of that. the diff fluid was at the tip of the dipstick, and the regular ATF was all over the dipstick with tiny bbubbles. the car shifted just fine.presume the me i siuggested changing the fluids and see if one changes color or goes down in level and the other rises. i presume the bubbles were from incorrect fuel levels the car would have been ok for 800 bucks but wasnt worth more than that. as it was, if it were a 5 spd 4wd it would have been worht more the asking price

if you prefer 4wd its all bolt up, 4wd will just swap in easy as that(when you have all the necessary parts!)

ok, the ej22 head swap sounds like the answer. thank you

i have had the idea of taking the insert from whatever car's cup holder andmaking holes on the flat part of the dash, insert cupholder there.this would work as long as its not some 44oz fountain pop

come on man, who do you think you are replying to.. anyway ihave already bought new struts and brakes and replaced the transmission and have new tire.....so on so dont giive me that wha ti DONT want to do is go spend over a hundred dollars in o2 densors knowing it will do me no good. HOWEVER, i do have the ecu and was just wondering if it would work. otherwise there are spark plug anti foulers the WRX folks use on catless downpipes, and i'm sure some resistor could be installed to fool the ecu into a proper mixture i can live withthe check engine light, and i am very intimate with my CAS so no, its not about to break off at this moment. (it acts up usually from a warm start within 30 min of parking, one out of every 4 warm starts.) i have already priced that but i'll go buy it when it really gets bad. what i would rather not live with is 20mpg when the car can do better, hence my question so if i have to trick the o2 then it would be easier to trick only one. thank you skip, that answers part of my question. i guess the other half of my question will be answered if i plug in the ecu and see if the car runs any one else?

the rubber o-ring hardens up and sort of locks it in place. be sure to replace the o-ring if its bad enough. but other thwn that, it just pops straight out

BUMP, i said..

4 spd means 4wd dual range. otherwise a 5spd for that model is FWD. 5spd 4wd's were in the ea82 models. basically i am telling you its 4wd with hi lo, 1800 ea81

the last time i looked up a soob hitch it was located near detriot. the price they gave you shouldhav ebeen factoring labor. you should be able to get that hitch for closer to 160-175 i would believe. but i no longer work at the u-haul check draw-tire/valley/thule since that are the manufactures vending to u-haul the one listed with u-haul is while supplues last, life cycle W, probably no longer in production. you could go with any generic bumper mounted tongue style hitch, some universal fit type.

if you write it in amny HTML format i have webspace to host it.

the car will have to be moving to engage, disengage. also, the steering wheel should be straight, dont use the button while turning! it's not a vac problem if the 4wd is in fact working. the vacuum controls a diaphragm thet pushes or pulls on a rod to actuate the 4wd

somy 263,000 mile legacy has a check engn lite. obd2 scanner calls for ccam angle sensor and o2 sensors. i am not worried abotu the cam angle, since a wiggle under the hood will make it start if the car acts up... anyway my exhaust is holloed out. i have read that the 1st sensor reads the mixture and the 2n monitors the cats. i have also read about spark plug anti-foulers. now here is the real question i am asking would it eliminate the 2nd o2 sensor if i swapped in an ecu from a 91 legacy sedan? how would the 1st gen legacy ecu differ from that of a 95?(power maps, etc) i have the earlier ecu left over from an attempted ea>ej swap, and since obd1 motors can be swapped in place of obd 2's , then this is why i am asking this question. EDIT: might i add my car is manual transmission, no EGR. the spare ecu is a 91 fwd 4eat