MilesFox

actually, i have done a leganus timing belt once before, fired up on the first try, this was the only time i have done one. anyway i dont remember the lignment procedure as t was somewhat complicated printout from the internet. i know i wrote the book on timing belts for ea82, but where is a diagram for the 2.2? we were smart to leave the covers open for easy access, it seems t me the passenger cam slipped whilst donuting the TRUCK STOP! the intake makes ill farting noises the more you open the throttle, as if the compression is flying past open intake valves. the car seems to idle fine as far as its running off the drivers side cylinder bank just fine.

mine fell off..

suppo0se the cone washer was on bacward, or not present at all. this will cause the nut to back off. not a matter related to remanufacture, but rather installation

thing is, last owner had a brand new clutch put in before we got it - and the guy redlined it, dumped the clutch, and broke a clutch spring. all the parts are great but the old disc had a small fracture and a broken spring, so it really just needs the disc.

forgot to mention this car has xt6 conversion 5lugs with 2wd legacy macpherson struts. Myoss Feece aligned the tie rods pretty good but we never thought of the alignment being off at the bolts on the strut-to-knuckle. i think if the struts were aligned the tie rods would then be way off. the car is out of line to begin with since zanny dook crashed it into a the turbo wagon on our way back from midwest 2 meet

i read some stuff about filling the crank case and cylinders with diesel fuel. also if you take off the timing belts you can center the cams at 12:00 so all the valves are closed now and again with the belts off you can spin the oil pump cog with an impact or drill to pressurize and circulate the oiling system

any 4wd 5spd driveshaft will work wether it be part time, full time, dual or single range, sedan, wagon, 3door, xt and xt6, clutches are the same as well. have fun

oh yeah i forgot to mention that u-haul wont rent a tow dolly to a subaru. i work at the u-haul as a matter of fact. that doesnt mean you cant tow a dolly should you get one by other means. i wouldnt tow anthing on the auto transport with a subaru but towing an empty auto transport isnt impossible. but then again the tow dolly has no tongue weight.

i towed wth my gl sedan 2wd at converted to 4wd 5spd, my 87 rx loaded down with parts on a tow dolly some 300 miles or so. it can do it, the gearing is appropriate, if you are confident in your driving skills the car will do it just as well. i towed with a 1,000 lb hitch and a 2,000 lb ball, did ok although it probably wouldnt hold up in a crash. i wont tell you not to do it, but then again i would only do it within your confidence to do so. my rig was pulling a good 3,500 lbs altoghether. i have made the same tow fairly often and even in heavy rain, where i used the 4wd hi at 70 mph. just use common sense, defensive driving, plenty of stopping distance, and no erratic maneuvers. the only warning i can present to you is that i am Miles Fox, and i am crazy like that.

TRASHWAGON EIGHT!!!!!!!!

i would use kerosene. about a gallon or 2 for a full tank. we used it when roberts car got stuck in the river

wedging a flat screwdriver between the cover and twisting it will usually get it. and this way, you can pop the covers back on if you want to use them, they usually fit tightly so its not like they will fall off

this sounds like the spider intake mpfi. i have seen non turbo on an 87 but not a turbo version in person. late 87 models and ones listed as "88" i would presume i guess it was the 84 brat had an automatic tranny for only one year (4wd)

you may be able to swap on the DOJ form an AT TURBOaxle since its 23 splines but has the diameter of the 25 spline axles an impreza 1.8 fwd 5spd axle will work, being the right length for the ea82 and the right spline for the xt6 hub

Tell me about the rain. it was a wall of downpour we drove through like a stargate portal just a mere 100 yds befor the junkyard entrance. you know that the first instance if rain is the slickest on a road, especially a junkyard entrance with whaqtever slick of oils and coolants abath. needless to say an understeer and a brake lockup revealed a 2-door lumina as i rounded past the truck ahead of me. jackass award of the day goes to me. anyway there was a coolant leak, but it was the water pipe popped out the pump so a quick fix with the 12mm did the trick. we drove down to the pigz' to file an accident report. just a form in the mail. the police were more concerned about us standing in the street and a video camera rolling than the fact that no one officially had insurance, or the TW has no plates(but freshly registered this morning.) but anyway my luck seems to turn bad driving other peoples cars, like the tiume in the lincoln and what was found under the seat blah blah, dont rid dirty etc.......anyway. bad luck turns to good luck at least it has been with me. anyway you all know me:clap:

i would most likely find my way to c-bus. as i have gone there before to put subarus toghether. what side of town are you on? is your motor the 2.2 or 2.5?

so did i, on an 87 rx with a bad rod. one gen 1 head and the other gen 2. pulles the valves and cracks to the valve guides. so what did i do? i'll tell you... port them out witrh a dremel and put them on a carb block. drove cross country and shot a documentary. no problems some 15000 mles later.......

undo the bolts before removing the timing belts. very simple:banana:

adding oil is no big deal. i work at u-haul and some of the old diesels use/leak oil. not going to down the truck and pay to fix it, its just easier and more economical to add a quart or 2 on monday after running the truck into the ground on the weekend personally i myself can tolerate a rate of one quart a week or per fill up, but if its any worse then do some gaskets. front end service is not too bad, i would bet the cam seals only are leaking. if the crank leaks its not as bad, but the cam seals are easy to replace if you have it all apart, motor in car (timing belt job procedure)

if you are getting parts for a subaru best know what to tell them. de4alers and parts stores are incompetent when finding parts, their books and computers and cross-referencing are incompetent as well. ask here first. or, for turbo applications ask for an 88 gl-10, for non turbo ask for 90 loyale. for ea81 stuff ask for an 84 brat. otherwise you get the wrong brake pad, axle, or what not because 2 different generations overlap thge same years and dont let the parts conter tell you any different from what you tell them you are looking for

re seal the current motor. otherwise you would get another motor and have it leak too, being in the same boat once again

check the pcv ststem for clogged lines and such as this can cause the intake to suck oil. make sure the green test connectors on the driver side firewall is disconnected. these are connected when setting the initial timing at the disty, but are unplugged for normal operation

10 minutes sounds too easy. i would like to introduce you to a thing called RUST on those little 10mm bolts and the molded in brass threadings. the 10 minutes it takes to remove the cover you would be done already. gotta love removing crank pulleys and ac assemblies? i prefer 10 minutes and 2 tools myself (12mm deep and 7/8 sockets, ratchet. makes that 3 tools i guess....) spares in the trunk. i accumulate used or pull-off belts faster than i can break them.

once again i should advocate open belts. go for it. no problems snow, water, mud, gravel. 6 foot reeds, cattails and grass. trips 'cross state and the like. the ONLY reported FAILURE was due to a loose rag under the hood getting wrapped up in the crank pulley. on MY car. so leave the rags in the trunk and you will be ok. i invented open belts. check the timing belt article in the usrm:clap:

refer to the timing belt article in the usrm