MilesFox

my buddy put an ej22 in place of an ej 18 in his 93 impreza fwd 5spd. he used the 1.8 intake as the electrical connections were different on the body as the ones on the 2.2 intake these electrical problems arose after the swap, after the motor ran, so i am thinking the problem is unrelated to the swap, since the car harness is seeing its original intake, no extra loads or different resistances the way the car acts is with one of the plugs disconnected from the motor, the car acts like its on when its off and vice versa, such as headlights coming on in the acc with the plug connected, and normal without it connected. i think there is a short from ign to accessory or something weird like that, voltage draw of fthe battery with the key off the impreza has different shaped connectors for the motor but i dont know if the wires are different than say a legacy. but here is a list of the wire with the voltages key on and key off. he doesnt have very good schematic and has no reference for what fuse is what, here is also a list of the fuses and their volts key on or off http://www.economysuperstar.com/trashwagon/imprezavolts.htm

yeah will do, i have lots of work yet to do with the website and moving to anotehr server. with an updated version

to ask again what size tires are you rinning, and what make, are all 4 the same size or make? as tires or rear end ratio are the only things i can think of causing a bind a bind will be caused from different rotation speed of the front axle vs the rear axle, as one wheel in front will be locked with one wheel in back, either the same side or diagonally, as the front and rear diffs are open but the front axle and rear axle are locked in by a gear, so 2 tires are always engaged witheachotehr across the front-to-rear

where exactly is this water leak with the jb weld located?

does the hazard work, and does the door chime work? the reason i ask is one day, on my 88 spfi, i was installing a factory radio and had to restore the harness(chopped up from stolen aftermarket) anyway i shorted out the green wire to the stereo(hot all the time) and blew the ecs fuse. i replaced the fuse and no start. i was like what the hell, and was about to tear out the dashboard. i tested for volts at the green wire and no volts, when it should be hot all the time with the key off. so i got smart and jumped + from one of my switches straight from the battery to the green wire and then it would start, and i have been driving this way when i connected the jumper my chime came on and the hazard came on(with the button) and this way i knew the ecu was gettin power

there is no relay for the fan, it grounds thru the thermo switch on the radiator. you can test the circuit by jumping the connector on the thermoswitch(i.e shorting the connection) to see if the fan comes on. the way the system is designed is when the thermo switch reaches a certain temp it closes on the connecotor compling ground to the circuit. the circuit on the + side is live in the acc and run position you can make a toggle switch to a relay and use the relay to make the ground contact. if you do this, and the thermoswithc works properly and is hooked up along with the relay, you can turn the fan on when you want, and if you forget to turn it on, the thermoswitch will take care of it

we parted off a 4spd automatic legacy at j.c's junkyard in columbus, oh. if i were out that way i may be able to get it for rock bottom cheap, say 50-100 bucks, as we took everything off the car i thought it was gone, but i found it in back buried behind a stack of crushed cars, its still there although i hae no immediate plans to be out that way, if i do find my way out there i will see about grabbing it for you and as always, should you get into any heavy duty work involving subarus, i could come out that way and do work for half of shop rate, say you get the tranny alone and need someone to put it in for you. anyway my email is milesfox@yahoo.com just hollar if you need some work

also consistent tire diameter should be all the way around the car. if there is any difference between the front and rear tires you will get your bind your car should have 185/70 tures for the 4wd dual range tanny. it may have 175/70 tires but thats ok. whats important is all the tires around the car are the same size if you have a hard time shifting out of 4wd try reversing a car length or 2 anyway do what northwet says and check the gear ratio on the rear diff. it should say 3.9 and that is what the car would have come with from the facotory, if its any different than someone changed it out, wether you know that or not

i can save the article and put it up on my website, with your permission. i am looking for contributions in general

i will have to oppose, i would myself pull the motor to do the head gasket. fo one if you are doing one gasket do both. for 2, it saves me from leaning over both sides of the car for extended periods for 3 you have plenty of room to work and clean everythin up 4, you can replae all the other seals such as the REAR MAIN, service the clutch if it has one and needs service, and all the front end work is easier to do such as engine seals and oil pump seals and timing belts 5 you dont have all the rockers falling out trying to put the cam towers back on! basically what im saying is having the motor out gives you more versatility and options to do to the motor, unless you ONLY ,JUST, want to replace ONE head gasket (and the litte o-ring on the cam tower)

timing for fuel injected would be 20 deg btdc. the 84 would be 8 deg +/- 2 deg

well i think maybe you just got a bad impression on the loyale or the ea82 for the reason this car doesnt run right. anyway, should i make it out to the iowa meet, i would like to meet up with you, if you can take me to the car dealer i would just like to look at it, and see for my own eyes this car. maybe the dealer will pay me to fix it, as i have stopped in at another place to ask of a soob was for sale and ened up selling him a tranny and puttin it in for him suppose if i found the problem i could whisper it over to you and you can grab it for a steal, winter is still some months away suppose you find another ea82 based subaru in the future you will consider it, if it werent the same situatin as this loyale. good luck and have fun!

do you feel vibration? is it in your seat or in the steering wheel? a whwwl bearing noise will go away when you turn one way or another. a loose axle nut noise will go away when you hit the brakes(generally) a bad cv joint will pop and click while turning, and sometimes jerk the wheel a bad doj(double 0ffset joint-inner axle joint at tranny) will vibrate through the steering wheel most times, and you may feel it in the seat. generally when the doj makes noise it will start on acceleration and go away on decel, or vice versa. how do the axle boots look?

if you want to try a "tornado" just cut up a pop can and stick it in the air filter

dont forget ea81 also has a drain plug on the gas tank! got this 83 gl-10. replaced the dead fuel pump tp get no fuel. drained the gas out the drain plug and blew out the lines, first from the drain plug and then the feul lines under the hood and at the pump make sure the gas cap is on so gas dont shoot out the side of the car. be careful and do outside as this will cause a lot of fuel vapor atomization and can be potentially EXPLOSIVE, s gasoline fog will be produced, just like a carburetor you know me, i made sure to go outside(large pole barn) to smoke cigarettes, as siphoning gas and smoking is one thing, but i know an empty tank full of vapor is another thing

i have seen a lot of electrical problems oin subarus can generally be cured by just un plugging stuff and plugging it back in. essentially cleaning the contacts

the only thing i could think of for you getting the wrong gear ration for a dual range would be something out of an 85-86 RX with "on demand 4wd" being turbos have a final drive of 3.7 and the non turbo had a 3.9 gear ypu could put a 3.7 gear differential in back if thats the case

well the trashwagons are for fun. i actuall do others work far better than my own, as i do mine as i go and work i do for others i do right through and through. largely because my stuff is mix and matched stuff wheras work i do for others they have new parts, thats all if you want references to my work i can refer you to people. i have met northwet in person at jim woods place, and he has seen for himself that all of jims fleet that i have put together are in sound running order, even the 2wd to 4wd conversion i did for jim, the same car with themisaligned belts for 85 bucks!

junkie, althoug the 3at is a dog this car sounds like its something else besides the tranny. i got a 92 loy-a and it runs just fine, and will scoot on the freeway. so does jim wood's car too bad this guy doesnt know the history with themaintenance, but as old as it is its likely the belt has broken and it was changed and aligned wron a timing belt is more likely to break from age rot sitting than being driven all day long. i have seen cars with 140,000 miles on their factory original belts like i said my bet is on the misaligned belt. the only problem with this is the guy doens want to plunker down the cash without knowing specifically whts wrong withthe car, and may be no way to find out until he buys it, and doesnt wat to make the gamble rule the tranny out its something else and all signs to me point to misaligned belts midwst if you want to talk to me on the phone i can try to help you troubleshoot the problem as i have seen cars with misaligned belts and know how thay drive compared to perfectly working motors and also know what a 3at should drive like, and a trasnny is a tranny its not like a tranny can run bad because its driven by tne motor, not itself call me (tim hansen's phone) 262-325-0346 ask for miles fox shoud you get this car it wouldn be too terribly inconvenient for me to come and take a wrench to it. offer on the house. just let me know if you get this car or not, but if you want my opinion its still worth gettin but i would try to haggle the price down a little more, use the poor performance as an excuse the car lot is probably more interested in gettin rid of it than top dollar, because any amount for cheap is still better than sitting on it with no buyer

green connectors, 87 and up spfi they are under the hood. 85 and up turbos as well as 86 spfi they are under the dash near the ecu. xt's in the trunk. the black or white connectors are for the codes withthe green connectors plugged in the fuel pump willcycle on and off, and this also holds the timing static in the same manner as plugging the vac line on a mechanical distributor

subarus are tricky to fill coolant and get the air out, wait till it warms up to operating temp and the thermostat opens(feel the radiator to see when its warm, or upper hose) and top off any coolant she will take. sometimes it takes a fill 10 or 15 minutes to wait for air to escape when filling. try this first since other problems are basically eliminated

my guess and bet is either the car broke a timing belt and grandma didnt want to pat to fix it and the dealer put new ones on althoug mis aligned. my other bet is that the lady broke a timing belt and had one put on, misaligned, and the car did not run right and she traded it in assuming the motor was no good make a lower offer to the car dealer, cash, 500 bucks or so and wave it in his face. if i could only see this car for myself icould tell you whats wrong with it. if you pass the car up and its not going anywhere i will se if i can stop in and take a look at it at the dealer, if he would let me take a wrench to it to checjk the timing belt i am almost certain this car has misaligned belts, both cams up at o deg instead of oposing cams at the timing belt alignment mark. easy mistake for any maechanic to make not knowing about subarus, as i have seen 2 guys get 2 cars for cheap with this problem, one was abandonned at one shop after paying big money to have the timing belts at the shop before. put on wrong. the other case a car broke a timing belt and the opwner paid 400 bucks to have them put on wrong and tell the customer the valves were bent. sold it to someone i know for 85 bucks and i re-aligned thebelts and it runs like a charm yet to this day all i can say is if you can get the car for a super price, if the dealer is desperate to sell, may as well get it. cnances are the dealer has been sittin on it a while and will take anything for it to get rid of it and make a quick buck. do some haggling and see what you can get it for another thing i can say if you do get this car for a decent price its not at a loss as whatever is wrong with it can be fixed right easily, just need to go over everything and check it out, its not a loss to take this car

if your car has a gauge for the oil you have the large sending unit. there is a 1/4 inch plug on the oil pump that would be for the smaller oil sender for cars equipped with a dummy lite. this would be a good place to connect a mechanical gauge if the fitting in your kit doesnt want to thread in(npt vs metric) you can get an adapter at auto zone, ask for it as its behind the counter in a tray, you can look and compare to the plug for thread

a rusty car in washington? no way

i have done the conversion myself to a wagon along with the tranny you will need the flywheel and clutch that goes to it, along with the 2 piece driveshaft. you willeither have to fabricate a mount for the 2 piece driveshaft or shorten a driveshaft from a 4spd model if your car is a 2wd 5spd your existing tranny crossmember will work. if its an automatic, you need to find a crossmember from another brat or wagon or hatchback of that body style(4 headlights) you will need the entire rear suspension assembly from a 4wd brat, wagon, or hatch of the same body. or you can fabricate a mount for the diff on your existing suspension, and swap in 4wd trailing arms. you will also need a differential and crossmember with a 3.9 final gear ratio, the ratio will be on a tag on the back of the diff its more economical to grab the entire rear suspension, diff and all of a donor vehicle your existing clutch cable will work you may have to beat the tranny tunnel in a little but, or put spacers on the crossmember mounts to drop the tranny down a half inch or so to clear, as its a tight fit you may also have to trim the shifter hole up a little to make toom for 5th and reverse.