MilesFox

on the rx, we ran it thru the speedo cable grommet on the firewall, down behind the center consile, ubder the console. then under the carped behind the parking brake, comes out under the back seat, then thri the split in the rx back seat

if you wish, have a new center pipe made to have the glasspack after the ypipe flange, use a 2 inch bomb, and run as fat as you want pipe out the back. the ypipe will do the scavenging, the glasspack will do the backpressure, anything after that is just pure flow.

you can adjust the tie rod bt backing off the big 19mm nut a few threads, there is a flat spot on the inner tie rod, get on that with a 17mm wrench, and that way tou dont have to pop the tierod out of the knuckle

o would say a 30 amp relay would be good, what does the fuse say?

3 hours is pretty good for a motor swap when my turbo dooked, i swapped in my carb motor in one night. i started when josh left for work around 5, and i finished right when he came home at 9, was ready to fire it up! also, tom and i were at jim's, we tore apart a non running turbo, did the HG and seals, tbelts, had the motor done, tom left, and jim and i installed the motor, had it running that night we startedlike 8-9 in the morning, we fires it up at 4 in the morning i have been known to pull up in the carbola in the morning, and have a otor swapped by the time i had to go to work. drive in with one motor, drive out with another it took me about 5 hours over 2 days to do the imnpreza clutch, ej motors are easier to pull, less stuff to disconnect sorry if i hijacked, or is this going to be about how quick one can swap a motor? anyway, im sure you will be driving it by the time you read this

on spfi, the temp gauge sensor is on the bottom front of the thermostat housing, one single blade terminal, use that hole the other one is for the ecu, leave it there on carbs, ots near the thermostat, its the only sensor, that hole works the fittongs with the hit will work, the threas is pitched *slightly* different, but it will thread, use teflon tape or pipe putty

yes, my trashwagon5 was featured there, sheetmetal and lift was labelled "the worst car ever" soeone took a pic from a contract we cleaned for

the speed sensor will flash you i believe a code 36. the speed sensor is there for the cruise control unit. as far as the heater goes, check around the vacuum canister on the passenger strut tower, there will be a skinny line from the motor, and black plastic lines along the firewall, just below the cown rubber seal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/vacuumcan.jpg

the mod can be done for the front of a gen 1, but the rear, you will have to swap in an ea81 suspension, so that the ea82/xt6 rear trailing arms will work. i dont know if the rear 5 lugs will bolyt on to an gen 1. but if someone has done a rear disc swap to a gen 1, then it will work

4wd donuting wit the diff lock on dry blacktop with 205/55 16 inch tures was no effort for the RX! i'm sure we picked up at least 15 hp

well, if its not hoolding back pressure, all the fuel is going back to the tank rather than thru the injector

its very possible that the head has dropped a valve seat. the only heads i have seen that were too bad to use had loose valve seats. one head that was questionable that i used, took a dump later, i suspect a dropped valve seat also a compression test will verify this.

you can wire the pump tp a toggle if you wish. just be sure to turn it off when u turn the car off. you can also wire the pump tp the positive terminal on the coil, so the pump comes on with the key.

on my turbo build, one of my heads was questionable with a crack in the exhaust port. when i started the car in the morning, i would get a little steam, and some coolant smell, as water must have leaked out into the crosspipe overnite. if you have the heads off, or at least the cross pipe, look for cracks in the exhaust ports

the short block we used was from an 87 carb 4wd 5spd wagon. well, we got it running today. the rotor was right on, we switched some wires, and gave it a shot of starting fluid. it started to fire, i turned the distributor and it lit up. we started out at like 10deg btdc, but found that it would not pull much past 4000 rpm, so a little tweak more, better. still no complaining from the engine. so now the timing is just a HAIR ABOVE the stock timing, motor pulls all day. we started on 87 octane, so we topped off with 87. i dont think we will have to worry about knocking the timing back till we get into boost mods. in first gear, rolling, mash the gas and the turbo comes on at 1700 rom, vs the 2500 it did before. you can get a god pull before the boost lite comes on, as the higher compression helps out in the torque department. i think if we can eliminate the exhaust, use fat pipes and acherry bomb, it will let the heads breathe better. cherry bomb right after the down pipe will be the idea to use. we also cut the bottom of the air box out, you can hear nice turbo noises between shifts. the throwout bearing was creaking a bit, but it goes away after the car is driven around. we will have to keep an eye on that.... so now we stuffed 13.32 gallons of gas, and reset the trip meter. the car has about 10 miles before the trip reset, so the trip will measure the fuel economy, and the miles on the motor since it was put back together. I would rate this build as a success, now we have a good platform to build further on

well, the 87 has a hitachi, and so do all the carbbed ea82's, so the weber kit you found will have the adapter plate for the intake you are using.

the one with the white stripe is power. the solid black one can be grounded to the body.

we used a similar to a "roto-zip" bit for a dremel tool with the flex extension. i chamfered the valve reliefs, and worn down the little nougat between the reliefs, to kind of blend them in, emulate the "dish" of a turbo piston. i did notice about a mmillimeter clearance from the top of the piston and the deck. with all my soob experience, i see the pistons look the same as spfi pistons. But i have recalled the compression specs for motors, i hear of 8.5, 9.0, and 9.5 compressions. i also read that turbos have different stroke, i would assume that turbos have a short stroke, for rpm, and carbs have a long stroke, for torque anyway, i believe this motor will be very practical, reliable, and with the ported heads hope to have picked up 10 hp just right there. with my turbo wagon, i noticed that the turbo came on at around 2000 rpm, sooner than the RX. (2500 rpm) but the car did not run when i got it, needed head gasket, so i dont have anything to compare the ported heads to a "before" but compared to the RX. it had enough torque to rip a tire loose in 2nd gear, from rolling, when the car ran right. i got it running mostly right to have it take a dook as well

actually, northguy, i got the mod idea from rguyver, after he had a diagram of the lower control mount relocation. i had pondered the mod before then, was told it could not be done. so far i am the only one with this mod after rguyvers hatch. but i totally endorse the mod for anyone contemplating suspension mods thanx rguyver!

well, one of my xt6 axles has a torn boot on the DOJ, so i will see if an ea82 25 spline doj will fit. If so, then i believe a 23 spline TURBO doj will fit i have put a 25 spline doj on a 2wd axle, the doj itself was slightly bigger than the bearings inside, but it still worked. but the xt6 axle is rather fat, i wish i has a 2wd legacy axle to play with. that would be nice for all this to work, so i can use a 5spd dual range with the xt6 axle. so rguyver, what do you have for a trans in the brat?

thanx corky!

if its the negative battery cable, it connects to a bracket just in front of the starter, the bellhousing bolt threads in. big fat battery cable black wire on the fuse link box, the balck wire goes to + battery, and the white one is from the alternator.

we have the rx together now. we bass axkwarded the turbo, there was a clamp that was not tight, so i has to dismount the turbo to fix it. we tried all night to get iot started. it has to do with ign timing we found the timing belts were in phase, but 3 teeth off the crank. but that was an easy fix, no belt covers but now i see the haynes book, the firing order is 1324, i was thinking 1342. i had the rotor on the left of the screw, instead of the right, but i changed that. so to keep from rioning the battery, we pt up shop and called it a night so tomorrow we do the timing, nothing else to put back together. but i did pull the fender and replaced the headlight, rep[aired collision damage what i could. so the rx will be pimpin' less a fender!

aunt bea can suck my muffler if i had one:D

i wonder what the deal is with thw 3 coils on the resistor. are they head sensitive, variable resistance, like maf. or just each one is a resistor. i would think that if the middle wan was broken, inly 1 and 4 will work. and f the first one is broken, only 3 and 4, and if the thrid one was broken, only 1 and 2 so basically i am asking what is the purpose of it being exposed to the blown air?