MilesFox

distributor 180 off, perhaps? or off a tooth. try turning it one way or the other. you may have to re-clock it. is your firing order correct?

If indeed there is low fluid, being low enough for the car to not move may take a gallon o fluid to bring it back up. Make sure it's full, then inspect for leaks. Likely place is on the framerail under the hood on the driver side where the cooling lines join the radiator.

an ea82 engine from an 85-86 gl will fit and work. you will want to use the ea82 radiator with it. any spfi ea82 engine will work as long as you have a mechanical distributor, and the ea81 manifold can swap any ea81 4spd dual range trans will swap. an ea82 5spd 4wd will swap also, carry over the ea81 trans mount, and use the ea82 flywheel and clutch. You will have to use the ea81 flywheel bolts, and grind away the bottom corner of the bellhousing to clear the teeth. Transfer the timing marks for the ea81 to the ea82 flywheel as the degrees are in different positions. use the 2 piece ea82 driveshaft, and fabricate a mount for the carrier bearing. a 4spd driveshaft would have to be shortened to use with a 5spd if you don't use the 2-piece shaft. Use a 5spd from a non turbo model so the axle spline matches. Otherwise, consider the mods for a 5spd if you use an EJ engine, but you will need to slot the flywheel holes, and use a custom bellhousing adapter (available as a product manufactured by a subaru enthusiast) Of course, you will have to swap the engine harnesses and fuel pump to use one as they are available. Otherwise, there are overseas engines with carbureted manifold and distributor for the ej22. You may consider an ej22's 5spd as well, but no lo-range, and the trans mounts and driveshaft will have to be modified further than a ea82 5spd. This is brief, there are more details depending on what you consider, but none if it is complicated as long as you have the correct combination of factory parts.

maybe some aluminum foil duct tpe to cover where it is busted. I always remove the belt covers as it makes any service much easier without having to remove anything. Coverless alows you to inspect the condition of the belts and idlers at any moment. Especially it will let you see any cam seal leaks, and the oil to drip away instead of slingin' all over the belts. Considering your preferences, i say tpe it up until you can replace it, and replace it along with routine inspection. Just be mindful of getting proper torque on the crank pulley if you do replace it.

the keyway on the crank snout will be 6 o'clock. the hash mark on the timing sprocket will align to the dot on the crank sensor.

98-03 forester struts will fot the same in the front. The rear would have to swap the tophats to fit the body. 96-99 outback wagon the same.

You can mock up the starter and the end of the bendix gear with no teeth would be in plane with the teeth on the TC

The flex plate is reessed in the engine bellhousing. you will know it's seated when you mate the engine to the trans and the flexplate still has about 1/8 of room to align the TC bolts and draw it together after the engine is bolted on. The engine should draw to the trans fully before the flexplate touches the TC. If the TC is hitting it while the engine still has another 1/4" to go, then it is not seated.

This one is flapper maf with mechanical disty/external knock control unit. I suggested the knock sensor grounds back to the KCU in the harness, as this is the earlier mpfi which is more like that of the ea81t. another note is the long block itself was from an 87 rx, to replace the engine that was already in the xt with the spider manifold after it blew a HG. this car is the mnster wedge for those of you familiar with its pedigree

You can lift he motor slightly by removing the engine mount studs and the pitch bar, and you can raise it up a little (place jack under trans diff) and get a few inches without having to remove the exhaust pipe. there are holes on the crossmember that you can use a screwdriver, or insert a 1/4' socket extension thru, then the socket onthe topside to remove the rearmost bolts. you will have to jummy the pan sideways to clear the motor mounts, , tip the front down, and maneuver around the pickup tube. If you are lucky, the holes in the gasket will be tight enough to hold the bolts in place when you go to reinstall the pan. Make sure all the bolts are threaded before torquing any of them down.

It should physically fit, but the reflector may look different, but that should swap over. There are monor body differences between 90-91 and 92-94. Thise differences are the hood, headlight, and bumper. I don'y think the trunk lid can be any different, perhaps the rear bumpers are slightly different, but everything between these 2 facelifts will swap between all 90-94

The aisin one has the fuji stamp on it, s that would make me assume it is a rebuild, Perhaps the paraut one is new aftermarket.

NGK bpr 6 es 11 is most common. gap to .035-.040. Plugs should come pre-gapped. Step it up to the v-power with the same part number

could be a high spot on the rotor. or the bearing could have failed enough that although it may not be making noise, and the edge of the rotor is tagging the caliper bracket. Look for slanted brake pad wear. Perhaps loosen and re-torque the axle nut. If one bearing had failed already, then the other one is likely. I would be concerned if the replaced one had failed, in regard to how it was installed.

o-ring behind the oil pump. The oil pump is retardedly simple to do once the pulley and belt is off. the front crank seal is there as well. 2 seals and some 7 or so 10mm bolts and a paper gasket/or sealant. the oil pump seal kit includes all 3 of these an extra 10-15 minutes' work on top of the rest.

Ok makes sense. The brat that donated my engine was 1986

Based on thehandling comment, i would say (based on my driving techniques) that the rear is coming around because you would be braking or letting off the throttle in turn-in. The car will want to rotate when decelerationg while turning. As with the dynamics of handling with an AWD car, apply throttle to straighten out. Do all your slowing down first before entering a turn, and lightly accelerate through the apex. If the car gets sideways, stay on the throttle and steer the direction you are going. It's when you abruptly let of the throttle or brake you are set up to spin out.

90-96 2.2 engine. 95-98 intake and harness (obd2)

I would run a ground cable from the head or intake to the battery terminal and run a fatter ground cable to the body. Thinking about it more, i suppose you could ground from the intake to the lug on the bellhousing bolt. The intake harness grounds to one of the intake bolts. Run the ground from there

Thanks for the comments. I am glad the video is helpful. I could imagine a low coolant condition (the leak) could make the engine temp sensor misread. If the temp gauge seems abnormally low, this is a sign of low coolant before it boils over and spikes the temp gauge. The engine temp sensor is east to replace with a 17mm tool, once you move a hose and a harness out of the way. These sensors are at the high point of the cooling systerm where an air pocket would hang out. The cam and crank sensors are accessible without removing any thing. They are mounted outside of the timing belt cover and are secured by a 10mm bolt. I just re-read your post and you mentioned the passenger side. I can imagine the leaking weep hole draining out of the other side if the rubber cover gasket is swollen and failed from the oil leak. I would bet on leaky cam seals. Best to do them anyway. Removing the pulleys and tightening them to proper torque is probably the most difficult part, but not so with the proper tools. The trick is to hold the works still. I suggest breaking torque loose on the pulley bolts before removing the belt, and after you align your marks. Good luck.

I thought (trying to recall from years ago's memory) that a 4spd pp and clutch disc can be used with an ea82 flywheel. Correct me if i am wrong. Also, if i remember correctly, my ej motor in my 3door originally came in a brat with a 4spd, and it had an ea82 flywheel on it, was not beveled on the edge like a ea81, and fit with xtd clutch and pp. it would have had the 4spd disc in it, but i don;t recall if the pp was different.

it's possible the ign switch itself is having a bad contact. But troubleshoot tour way out of the first 2 scenarios first.

the small wire on the starter is part of the overall body harness. It comes form a relay originating from the ign switch, which originates from the fuse panel, which originates from the fusible links, which originate from the battery terminal. I love marine terminals and install the brass ones any time i have to screw with the battery

Don't shift into first while rolling as this ruins the synchros in subaru transmissions.

I will give 2 suggestions: 1. the park or neutral safety switch in the shifter console may be sticky from spilled coffee, drinks, armor-all, etc. 2. perhaps the starter itself is due for attention. the next time it acts up, take a piece of wire and jumper the starter solenoid to the battery. If you still get a no-start, or click, suspect the starter solenoid. If it starts with the wire but continues to fail with the key, suspect the park/neutral switch