MilesFox

When i painted the engine bay in my 86 3door, the 569 code cross refferenced PPG with 'Crest Brown Metallic. The shade was slightly redder than the rest of the car, but not toticeable except for the bumper where i ran out of paint on my last coat. You should consider painting the whole car to match. My car may have been painted before as there was evidence of body repairs after i tore the car apart, and the crappy clear coat job. I am partial to the brown color, so my opinion would be to keep with that color, especially since you don't see brown cars any more. But i have seen newer soobs witha similar brown color, more of a taupe color, though

The timing should be 20 deg. There should be room to turn the disty past 30 degrees. Clock it forward another tooth, its range is probably limited by this.

Steel rims will take a dent where alloys will crack (off road) Alloy wheels are lighter for better accel/brake (street) Alloys will leak at the bead more often in cold weather (winter), and are particular about wheel nut torque (re-check after 100 miles) Steels can be more resilient, but uglier. Alloys will make the car look more higher optioned or invested (perceived value) Have both, alloys for summer, and steels for winter tires, swap back and forth.

use a straight jaw vise grip

Go back to the guy with the loyale parts and salvage the trailing arm, swap the whole unit, bearing, washers and all

ford truck dual tank rear external pump

I have used an aluminum sheet bent to fit and secured with sheet screws. Large dryer clamps would work for this. If the axle is not yet popping and clicking severely, re boot it as the quality with remans is sometimes worse then the existing axle

Pulling the engine allows more access and the chance do do baffle seal and valve covers, do the timing system if you like. Aur bubble in cooing system can be difficult to burp. Pulling the transmission saves you from having to open the cooling system. But you have to remove wheels and loosen the strut-to knuckle to allow for removing the axles, then the shifter, then the y-pipe or its donut flange. gear oil is messier than coolant opinion: Motor is easier to undo since you are above instead of below it. Trans only makes sense if you have a lift. Plus, with my experience, pulling the trans allows for the motor to pitch forward, making re-install difficult, especially for MT. The last time i did this i had to shove blocks of wood and a nintendo game boy between the motor and the radiator to get the pitch right. (i elected to pull the trans since i was swapping between 2 cars back and forth) I can understand pulling the trans for lack of an engine hoist. Take the time to source an engine hoist and you will be much happier.

The passenger side lock cylinder is probably stuck from lack of use. You might be able to jangle the key around to get the tumblers to free up and allow it ti turn. Try graphite powder or wd 40. once it is working use graphite powder to maintain. For the gate you will want to remove the interior panel to get at the mechanisms. possibly could be locked. the handle linkage is tunable. inspect for broken clips that retain the rods to the latch or lock is the electric locks working? my 95 legacy and 94 legacy both did this: Doors are locked all the way around, unlock driver door with key, the rest of the car remains locked. Then lock the car from inside, then unlock it with the lock handle, and then it unlocks the rest of the car. try this to get the trunk unlocked

you can likely swap the dust shields if you can get them off without damaging them. perhaps drift them off from behind.

Depending on if they are ripped out or not, you can re-hook them onto the plastic nubs. Sometimes the rubber is split out, or the nubs are broken. You can use 3M super weather adhesive to glue the rubber back on, using the pegs to keep the alignment correct. be sure to prep the surfaces with acetone or similar solvent.

Imagine if that axle shaft was rusted on. Sounds easy enough, good job.

36mm

cracked exhaust port: junk head. this is true if the coolant is coming out of the exhaust por itself. There is a water pipe on the head, check the banjo bolt copper washers, and the rubber hose that goes to the turbo and the 2 clamps. if the coolant is dripping off the back of the head, see if there is any on the top of the engine as it could be the small hose between the thermostat housing and the top of the block

this vac/solenoid/diaphragm system is the same for both the pushbutton single range 4wd, and full time with diff lock(rx, xt6) The rx/GL and xt work the same but some of the routing and location is different, but schematically similar.

you will want to use metric. That looks like the updated baffle plate.

It should be plug and play. if in doubt, use the intake form the original engine. Do the baffle seal behind the flywheel.

yup, broken axle or stripped hub. easy to fix with replacement. Either the axle had a split boot, or the axle nut itself had come loose/wasn't installed properly. Enjoy the RWD for the moment

Lower miles and the turbo are gain,b ut i'd turn toe boost down to 6 or 7 lbs and be happy with it. Kids will like the drive-thru car wash more with the coupe

sorry, my remarks were based on ea81 bodies (wagon). i forgot to read brat for 1980

The rx trim in a sedan is more rare, but the coupe body as a whole is the most rare ea82 body. I have a coupe, and i would fancy a sedan, but i have had gl sedans, and the coupe has the cool factor for my taste. I would base my decision on if the guy who is trading appreciates your car equally. Either or is the same car minus the specific traits of the coupe. In regards to the insurance remark, and with my forester, the insurance classifies it as an SUV making the rate ore than an impreza which is the same platform, so i could see insurance begging to differ with body styles of the same platforms

What state is the title? That must be a new law since i used to title cars from ohio without a notary (as within ohio) when i lived there. Don't get me going on about Indiana and the BMV as i have had my fair share of it before they modernized it. Only in Indiana the Motor Vehicles is a 'Bureau' instead of a 'Department'. Your story reminds me of trying to get an inspection to register a home made trailer. The one thing i did like was being able to get 30 days on a title before transferring the plate. Here in WI it's only 3 days, and no temp plates for within-state titles.

The grinding would clue me to a difference in rotation as it won't engage under wheelspin. Perhaps there is a broken axle or a stripped hub (loose or improperly installed axle nut/washers.

here's a long shot:: Depending on the cross reference for your distributor cap, the numbers on the cap may be out of orientation as some nissan stanza can cross-reference. rotation is counter clockwise

This is not true unless you are installing a lift which spaces the crossmember. It fits if you ditch the timing belt covers (recommended for ea82 serviceability)