MilesFox

You have an ea82 engine. for 86 you would have a carb. With carb comes a specific distributor/cap. This becomes confusing because the ea81 has a carb, and was available in 86. Here is a breakdown of parts listings: 1800cc OHV 1980-84 ea81 wagon, sedan 1980-87 BRAT 1983-84 ea81 mpfi turbo 1980-89 ea81 hatchback 1800 cc OHC EA82 wagon, sedan, 3door coupe, xt coupe. 85-89 ea82 GL, DL 90-94 ea82 LOYALE 85-91 ea82 XT With this you get years of overlap with both platforms for 85-87 and 85-89, so there would be 2 options for carbs, headgaslets, and suspension/drivetrain parts. For an 86 gl wagon, you can't go wrong with ordering parts for a 90 loyale in general. But for 86 make sure any listings have OHV in the engine nomenclature. But for the carb and disty you must have the 85-86 year listing for OHC ea82. For ea82 cars, they would be lumped together bin design evolution as 85-86, and then 88 and up are virtually the same save for some minor difference from 89 and up (egr and such with mpfi) 1987 had both carb and spfi available. The 87 would be more like an 88 with an 86 electrical system, a hybrid if you will, a transitional year to the 88 and up.

The vacuum schematic/emissions info sticker under the hood will state the timing. Provided you have the original engine and original hood.

Whiteneck, redneck, leatherneck, what have you. Hey, i am just giving my perspective from someone who is not native to here. Unless you have a Harley and a Mullet, i meant not to offend anyone. I live in a worse part of town if we need to go on about 'talking down' the neigborhood. But i get along just fine where i am at. Working 40 hrs a week and retiring is more than i have done so far.

Perhaps the knock sensor is bad.

I would think the boot dimensions would be similar to older models. Perhaps a range of cross-referencing would yield the same part. I have no experience with ordering split boots.

Timing should be set to 8 deg BTDC. The vacuum advance should be disconnectoed to get a static reading. Otherwise, the vacuum advance will make the timing move all over the place 9normal operation) According to your post, the timing should be set to 8 deg as 6 deg is lower than spec.

My 95 legacy wagon failed the MC at 245,000 mi. I believe one channel has been failed for a while, as the front left wheel would lock up in winter driving, and then finally brake pedals would go to the floor. Now that i have replaced it, the ABS module is leaking. I wouldn't rule it out for a 15-20 yr old car. Aside from subarus, the MC failed in my 78 toyota chinook camper (1/2 ton) with 300,000 mi on the clock. My 81 ford ambulance is intermittent with brake pressure with the MC, although i have fixed all the leaks. Time for a MC on that one, too.

The problem with matching a MC is that they come without the reservoir, and you swap on your reservoir. You could find a different MC from a junk yard, and then order a new MC and swap that reservoir onto it. Any MC *should* bolt up the same

intake gaskets (lean condition, coolant ingestion)

Changed fuel filters?

a bad intake can ingest coolant if you are smelling it out the tail pipe. It will simulate a bad HG but without loss of compression or coolant in the oil.

I wager bad intake gaskets. Be careful not to snap the bolts.

The leaky sunroof may h=just be clogged drain tubes. Bleeding the rear brakes is more successful if you depress the clutch while pumping (provided the hill holder functions. )

The radiator may be corroded. Try back flushing it with a garden hose. Observe proper bleeding procedure, especially if your symptoms have arisen after opening up the cooling system. If you ahve a mystery coolant loss, check the little hose under the thermostat between the top of the engine block.

Unplug the module itself from under the hood. Mine has been unplugged for 2 years. The only problem i am having with it nowadays is the module itself is beginning to leak.

Make sure the spark plug wires are routed properly. 1-3-2-4 counter clockwise 3 4 1 2

The best $800 you didn't spend.

The covers hae nothing to do with the guiding of the timoing belt. The belts are guided by the tensioners and the lips on the oil pump and crank sprockets. The belts naturally tide towards the inside of the cam pulleys, as this is the flattest part, and the front of the pulley is rounded. I run all my belts open including ej22's with no issue. True there may be water exposure on the idlers, tensioners. Sometimes they will show flash rust on them. But prudent maintenance dictates the idlers/tensioners would be replaced as routine before they would fail. Plus, with having open covers, you can easily inspect and replace anything at any given moment, even off the side of the road. Going coverless saves you from haing to remove the crank pulley, except for changing a front seal. You can do the water pump without removing belts, and you can do the oil pump (remove belts) without removing the crank pulley. Should the belt snap, keep a spare in the trunk. Coverless makes an over the side of the road repair possible within 20 minutes, and all you need is a 22mm(7/8") wrench or socket, and a deep well 12mm socket to change them. Add a 14mm to change an idler pulley.

a slight film of oil is good to ease installation. use a liberal amount on the trochoidial rotor.

Perhaps there is trouble with the venting system, purge control solenoid.

YOu may need to 'bench bleed' the MC f it ran dry. This is easy to do if you remove the line and place your finger over the hole while someone pumps. There is no need to remove the unit unless you are replacing it. This is a dual diagonal brake system. I assume you know how to do that. I find it helps to bleed out the rear brakes if you depress the clutch pedal while pumping the brake to move the fluid through the rears.

Subaru factory airbox. You have noting to gain from a 'cold air' intake but maf issues. The factory airbox draws air from outside the engine will unside the fender. Slop on some junk with a cone filter and get all that 'hot' engine cabin air and an oily MAF. Sorry to sound cride, but a 90's subaru isn't exactly a tuner car. Stick with what is proven to work, and stay away from what is proven to fail. You will gain more by changing the muffler and advancing the timing a little bit.

You will be glad the covers are gone the next time you service your car.

Yeah, you get the 'whitenecks' in this region in the rural areas. I am native to Indiana and moved here 8 years ago. But you live in a town where people aspire to work a blue collar job 40 hrs a week so they can afford a new Harley when they retire. Nothing wrong with that, but that is the general culture in working-class burbs.

Consider the water pump may be leaking out of the weep hole if you have an an-known coolant loss.