MilesFox

It would b e easiest to swap to a manual. Swapping to a 4eat would require the TCU and harness, which has to integrate into the engine harness. A manual trans is simply a bolt on affair, considering you have all the associated parts. The problem with the 3at is these cars were built when there was a fedeal 55mph speed limit, and this the trans' are geared for such

It looks like it is missing. I see a threaded hole where your green relay is that it would mount to on a bracket. May be it got ditched having been mistaken for an emissions part.

assuming you are driving a first or 2nd gen legacy 2.2, my experience is 24-26 mpg, yu can estimate 275-325 for mileage, towards 350 if your mileage is good. consider ethanol blend fuel for overall economy.

Do you have a thread on grassrootsmotorsports?

The 4wd solenoids on the XT are on the firewall above the bellhousing, very near the wiper motor. the other end goes to the trans below the starter.

With the full time and a locked diff, or the part timme 4wd in 4wd, tou can configure the rig to run a s a FWD or a RWD by removing an axle or driveshaft. But it may not hold out under the abuse. But the same car can be fwd, 4wd, awd potentially.

Inspect the lines for rust. The lines typically rust through where the plastic clips secure them to the body.

It is possible to swap between . I have swapped an ea82 3at FWD into an ea81 hatch. It bolts up the same to the motor, but i had to fab a piece to adapt the rear part of the trans mount. Yu may have to mix'n'match the torque converter or the flexplate.

You should be able to pop it open with a butter knife or similar. It is just a plastic peg that holds it closed. slip the knife in there and it will push the peg in releasing the fuel door. The only thing you have to worry about is chipping the paint. wrap the knife in tape or a rag or similar. once open see of the peg is moving freely or with the cable. You could wrap tape or sililar around the latch to keep it from locking again if the cable is shot.

Word!!!

All the way forward would be 4wd and all the way back would be FWD

I take it you have a pushbutton 4wd? Try reversing the vacuum lines from the trans diaphragm on the solenoids as it may be connected backwards. IF the solenoid is not working, you can manipulate the 4wd off and on by reversing the lines each way. otherwise there could be a short in the 4wd (sensor) switch on the trans If it is not any of that, maybe one of the rear axles is broken.

That is what being on this forum is for. You can do it!

^^^^ what he said. I have eibach ground control form mine. for the rear you will need kybgr2 for FWD xt

Having the wing on the logo I would assume motorcycle enthusiast.

I would assume you removed a brake line which introduced air into the system. Otherewise it is a good idea to flush the brake fluid every once in a while as brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmospher and can cause the brake lines to rust out or caliper pistons to seize.

Maybe the pickup tube is cracked. Worth inspecting

Did you bleed them out. The brake systerm is dual diagonal. Bleed out in this order: RR, LF, LR, RF If the master cylinder went dry, you may have to bleed it out first.

fwd xt springs and struts. Otherwise you are into retrofitting with impossible to find parts just so you can use modern 'coilover' parts. Not the ideal candidate, but it can be done with some ingenuity. Do yo homework

Use it on the cam tower, and small dabs on the il pump where it overlaps the crank halves. I like to use it on the pan side of the oil pan gasket. Install the thermostat gaset and the water pump gaskets dry

Those are correct. you will need 2 for each side. all 4 are the same part number

I am trying to remember the diameter of the thermostat housing bolts, should be a 10mm head. If so, it will be m6x1.00 thread which is the samae as the WP and oil pump bolts. Otherwise it will be m8x1.25 if it has a 12mm head. the exhaust studs are m10x1.25 Use permatex ultra grey instead of RTV

my 95 legacy outback has 240,000 mi on its original HG after surviving an overheat from a failed WP that took out the timing belt. It has a re-seal with the repairs but the same HG's

If you are swapping a manual into an automatic car, then you will need the following along with the trans/flywheel/shifter as a whole: you will need the longer bolts specific to the manual trans crossmember. You will need at least the front half of the driveshaft to match the length of the manual trans your turbo car has a 3.7 gear, so you will need a 3.9 rear dif for a non-turbo dual range trans. You will have to defeat the inhibitor switch by either installing a pushbutton directly to the starter solenoid, or jumpering the 2 fattest wires in the leftover shifter console's pigtail harness. There are several ways to do this with hybriding trans harnesses (as you will also have to get the reverse lights working as well. And of course, the adapter plate to mate the ej motor to the ea trans

the whole motor and wiring harness. the seats. the exhaust header to mid pipe.