MilesFox

Timing belt didnt fix it. timing was correct. the #3 spark plug wire was bad. She is 100% now. Going backwards in troubleshooting really pays off!

.....or the hot spot will melt the glass and let the vacuum escape and the filament burns out. If the bulb is milky looking, this is the case. It is normal for a working bulb to have a silvery tone after it has been operational.

I have now swapped the FPR and 3 of the injectors. The injectors i put in match the first one that has been installed. I am going to take fairtax's advice and check the timing belt. It looks like it may be a notch off, actually. I am going to remove it and re-hang it with the marks and see if that helps. I shouldn;t have been so stubborn! If that don;t fix it, the only other possibility would be the heads.

Shifter wobble is expected, the bushings do get sloppy over time. It is mounted on an arm separate form the trans between the body. IT is not mounted on the trans itself. There are several linkages in it that multiply any play. It is common that you can wiggle the shifter side to side in gear as if it were in neutral. You will always bump your passenger's knee grabbing 5th gear! the check engine light may or may not stay on, but the ecu ill flash a code at you if you plug in the test connectors. as for power, the ea82 prefers mid rpm than low rpm. The engine should always operate above 1500 rpm. Ideal cruise rpm is 2500. Shifting ranges would be shift at 3500 so the next gear grabs at about 2000-2500 rpm for normal driving, wind it up to 4500-5000 rpm for rapid acceleration such as a highway ramp. hit 5th gear once you get to your cruising speed. The water pump can be replaced if the timing belt cover is removed. The trouble with that is, you have to take off the crank pulley and the ac components to get the cover off. If you ran coverless with belts, the water pump is just staring at you. You can get the wp off, but one of the timing belt cover bolts thread into the pump housing. A lot of us run coverless for the idea that it makes a 2 hr job into a 20 minute job for routing front engine servince, I have been one to just break out the middle timing belt cover since i would be ditching it anyway. Avoid removing the crank pulley unless you are doing the front seal, as sometimes it can eb difficult to get it back on tight properly, so it doesn't wobble around and eat the woodruff key.

If this problem came after changin the ECTS, i would guess the following: knocking loose the vacuum line from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator loose vacuum from the purge control solenoid (there is a tee from the solenoid, to intake, to pressure solenoid on the strut tower) wiggled the main harness plug or o2 sensor plug the pcv hose from the pcv valve to crank vent to intake tube is loose IACV hose came loose on either end. These are guesses fresh off my memory as i have just been in and out of a whole ej22 intake trying to figure out a misfire

Have you tried wiggling the sockets. I ahd a ford truck that you had to wiggle the socket every time you turn the lights on. although it would stay on til turning off again. Handling the replacement bulb with your fingers will cause them to burn out, as the oil from your finger creates a hot spot on the bulb.

Someone i know witn an impreza RS bugeye needs front struts. I salvaged a pair of 95 legacy front struts. Although i am sure they will fit, i am wondering if there are any rstrut length difference or spring rate differences. This is an opportunity for me to shed some spare parts as well as dude fixes his car for much cheaper than shop or new parts.

All that is left to shot gun is the FPR. so far anything i have screwed with regarding vacuum lines has had an effect. I can assure you that the timing is correct. This engine used to run correctly, and the misfire has gotten progressively worse over time. What i am trying to solve is a pre-existing condition outside of the engine build itself. And either way, all of the foresters known working original components have found their way onto the donor engine. I figure i can at least waste my time with the FPR before i consider my time wasted. This engine is running coverless. I suppose i can check the belt timing just because i am staring at it. Now that i am remembering, i think i may have suspected the FPR a while ago when the engine was first put togehter, but somehow didn't think of it this time around. I guess my mind was stuck on the idea it was the harness or something electrical. Thus thinking of the FPR after scratcing my head and thinking "well what can be left on this manifold that could fail?" I suppose i should rephrase 'shotgun approach' as 'process of elimination'

You can use the whole ea82 rear trailing arms and they will fit the ea81 torsion fram if you drill out the mount nd use the ea82 pivot bolts. You can even replace the shock with a coilover from an ea82 if you chose. The front hobs can be replaced with ea82. change the inner seal to match the ea81 axle. there is a way to use ea82 lower control arms, this makes the track wider than the rear, but you have to relocate a mounting tab to move thecontrol arm back the width of the bushing. _EDIT__ what i am describing applies to 2nd gen brat. Not sure if the same holds true for a 1st gen.

You will have to source a engine crossmember from a turbo 8a81 83-84 brat, wagon coupe, to acommodate the up-pipe for a turbo engine. It can be done, but you either need the right factory bits, or modify axles and bellhosing and chop down wiring harnesses. You essentially need a turbo donor car to do something like this. Otherwise, you can fit a turbo manifold on there if you can figure out how to do so witih the carburetor. The original piece may be rare or unavailable, or you would have to build a manifold. Otherwise use modern engine.

i'ts not bolt on or plug and play. I believe "no" was the answer you are looking for.

YOu will find dual pirts thru 96, the impreza is single port after 96/97 but kep tht eej22 thru 99 or maybe even 01. the legacy ent to 2.5 by 98 and 99. you will find 2.2's for later years with impreza.

New plugs, wires, i put this motor together, timing is correct. INTERMITTENT misfire, cannot be caused by a static occurrence such as the timing belt being off a notch, which it is not. I won't rule out a cpmpression reading since i don't have a gauge. I am not assuming the injector is bad considering replacing # 2 didn't cure anything (the other guy did this), but rather something that has to do with the operation of the fuel injector is bugging out. This is an HLA engine with no valve adjustment. HG's fine, no bubbles, no over heats. This far in the troubleshooting i now suspect fuel pressure regulator. It was sort of a trial and error shotgun approach, but nothing wrong with shot gunning the car's original components back onto itself. At least there is a control (the forester's original components). This makes sense that the injectors farthest form the fuel supply would bug out. So far i am going by instinct and my own troubleshooting abilities since i haven't bothered with multi meters and specifications, since shotgunning (original) parts onto it is a free option. Tomorrow i swap the FPR/fuel rail and will post my result.

If it is SPFI , you will have to remove the screws and lift the MAF sensor up out of the housing. You will see 2 little filaments Clean them with 'CRC' mass airflow sensor cleaner. I have seen thes where the filaments have broken off. Check that as that could be a problem.

One thing i can tell you for certain is that now she is only misfiring on one injector and not 2, and that my troubleshooting has cleared up the condition quite a bit, also eliminating misfires at idle, with the EGR solenoid and the IAC having the best effect with the idle.

The valves seemed to be in good order when assembling the engine. But the misfire was a pre-existing condition before swapping on the 2.5d block. But the misfire is intermittent, mainly under load. If i manually shift, and am light on the throttle, i can get it to rev out smoothly, and at about 5,000 rpm i can gie her all she got and she goes! It seems like the misfire wants to clear just before the next gear hits, then misses under load. The check engine lite will flash each time it does this. So today I did the following, to rule out any one of these as causes: Changed ECTS with the one original to the forester.. .No change, but the old one crumbled as it came out, and i observed the fans are working of and on ash she idles-working normally. I replaced the TPS sensor I swapped out first the little diaphragm thingee that sits above the EGR. this seemed to help with the idle. I forced open the EGR with a screwdriver. Although this caused a rough idle, it seemed to help mid-rpm. I noticed the EGR actually working after i did this, but only after the engine reached operating temp. If i work the throttle from under the hood, the valve opens right off throttle, but closes as i hold the throttle open. Then i removed the EGR valve itself and inspected. pintle moves and the intake port is not clogged with gunk. Then i replaced the EGR solenoid itself. This greatly improved the idle. There is virtually no misfire at idle. So far, every electrical component on the intake has been swapped out with original components to the body of the forester, which are all known-working condition. Now, assuming there is no burnt valve (ej22e), the only other variables to consider are either the fuel filter, or the fuel pressure regulator. I am considering swapping out the fuel rails and the fuel filter as last resort. I do not have a compression tester to confirm or deny compression numbers. The compression feels strong as i turn it over by hand, and is noticeably stronger than a stock ej22 turning by hand.

The 95/96 should be mostly dual ports. 95 for sure, some 96 and 97 are single ports. The dual port head is preferrable. The roller rocker cams in the single port heads are disireable. Putting the roller rocker cams in the dual port heads is the way to go for a torque cam. The obd2 harness would be the desired one (95-99) since you can use a code scanner with it. The obd2 intake meets all 2.2 phase 1 engines 90-98 legacy and thru 99 impreza.

I am salvging a 95 legacy wagon, if your part is broken, i will have one available to you.

I am going to change the ECTS today and see if that helps. I suggested this when the engine belonged to my dude in his car, although for some reason he refused to change it even though he had the part. If this fixes it, i will feel like a total toolbag....................Short of swapping all 4 injectors from the ej25 intake, i am contemplating stealing the whole intake off a 96 brighton and be done with it.

Use a complete ej22e as your donor, and throw the 2.5 block in between. preferrable a 95or 96 legacy with obd2 and dual port exhaust. Or use the engine from a 90-94 legacy, and use an obd2 intake and harness from any 95-99 legacy

Unpugging the injectors individually. Fresh head gaskets, motor put together this last feb. #2 injector had been replaced before. So far i have changed the IAC and it helped a little in the idle, but still have the misfire under load. I have changed the coil with no difference. Could I be having EGR problems?

I have just swapped a frankenmotor into a 98 forester. The franken motor is a ej25d block and ej22e heads. The forester originally had an ej25d. This engine came from a 95 legacy, from which the intake and heads are original to. The engine had this horrible misfire before swapping. I assumed maybe the misfire could have been an anomale in the ecu or harness of the 95, but it is still present in the 98 forester. The #2 injector has been replaced, no cure. The #2 injector drops out at idle, and under load, the #1 injector drops out as well. I thought i had read something about a bad signal from the IAC will cause this. Upon startup, the engine sems to run smooth until it idles down to the point the IAC closes, then misfires. So i swapped the intake harnesses. The car now has the forester's original harness on teh intake. So my problem is not the intake. It must be an individual component on the intake itself. i had to swap over the purge control solenoid and the knock sensor to match the harness I have not attempted to swap the coil. I loathe to change the IAC with the little hoses of death under the intake (i don't want tp pull the intake-again!) HAs anyone had this trouble before, swap or not, and what should be my troubleshooting route: to reiterate, i have swapped over the forester's original engine harness, knock sensor, and purge control solenoid. All of the forester's original components are known working order before the swap. I can rule out any ecu or harness as the problem.

I ended up swappign the flecx plates. But i had to remove the engine from the stand to get the part, not too much work to wrangle around. I did not want to make any mess with removing the torque converters. The engine is bolted in and ready to go.

he probably used standard wrenched on metric bolts. Have you ever seen people not be able to squarely fit the correct size tool to a bolt wothout slipping? It may not be as bad as presumed. The bolts will have 12mm heads. The shank is 8mm with 1.25 thread. The long alternator bolt can be susbstituted with a standard as you will likey not find a m8x1.25 bolt that long. Bring a good pair of straight jaw vise grip.

Is there an advantage using the 2.2 TC in the 2.5 trans with stall speed? Otherwise i will be swapping flexplates.