MilesFox

Makes me wonder if the filure is due to it having been rebuilt? The bottom ends should never have to come apart for any reason beyond normal maintenance. Scott (xbeerd on the forum) has an ea82 spfi engine kicking around. Your hitachi manifold will bolt on the same, but you increase compression from 8.5 to 9.5 for a little more kick. I'll give him a hollar. Maybe he'll chime in. Between the both of us, him having the engine, i have a harness and distributor that could be cut down so that you can run spfi as a standalone ECU and harness.

^^^^^ this or at least use permatex ultra grey. Do not use RTV as it will fail

Tou can remove the outer tie rods to remove the boots. they are spring clamped on the inner end, you can simply roll them off. The inner tie rod end is a ball and socket, check it for lube/corrosion. If it needs replaced, the inner tie rod unscrews form the rack. The fuel pump is behind hrte rear passenger seat. pull up the carpet and there is an oval cover. remove that and there you go. As far as the trans pan,do not remove the pan if it is not leaking. There is no filter in there. There is a magnet, however, but removing it to wash anyting out is not warranted with the low miles. The lifter tick is probably due to the low miles and short trips, old lady driving. Change the oil and do some spirited driving. Rev the piss out of it since they probably havent seen their full range of operation in some while. Clean or replace the PCV valve to addrss any oil consumpsion or sludging issues. the rear suspension parts will swap out between 95-99 and i'm pretty sure that the suspension crossmembers on the 9-94 legacy is the same, even with imprezas. What is noce about these cars is how retrofittable they are, so you can swap in a 2.5, use 2,2 heads on a 2.5 block, and use taller struts from foresters and outbacks for a little ground clearance, all bolt up from stock over the counter parts.

I think the whole non interference obsession is born from being brought up on ea82's

Yeah, its best to have the smae guy do all the work so no one is compromising anything vs the other. This is the kind of thing i used to go on road trips for to put someones soob together in another state. My circumstances today don't allow for that (i have settled with family) as i was the travelling subaru mechanic years ago. One thing to consider if you lwish to keep your existing ea82 engine is either convert the carb to a weber so you ont have to dal with all the solenoids and vacuum to the hitacjhi. Even better yet, an SPFI fuel injection manifold and distributor would bolt right onto the engine if you had the spfi engine harness and ECU, cut down to work. This would be the same idea as using an ej engine, having to use the trimmed harness and ecu, but with SPFI it saves you havieng to come up with a whole engine, and a custom flywheel and bellhousing to make it fit. You will want to have the seals done if it is leaking. Swapping woth another motor defeats its own purpose as any old subaru engine will leak, and if you use another engine and re-seal it, you may as well re-seal the one you already have. These engine blocks are good for better than 300,000 mi. Even refreshing a 250,000 mi engine would buy you another 100,000 mi of life. It is more often than not a poorly running subaru engine is a result of someone screwing with (attempted maintenance) it than it acting up on its own(lack of service) I had the luxury of working on an ea82 engine that was supposedly had new internals(which was not necessary) and was built by some russian dude who managed to remove the oil pressure relief valve, and ACTUALLY INSTALLED THE HEADS BACKWARDS. This was a running engine. I repaired the head gaskets and resealed it. Then the engine knocked. And the engine only knocked because someone split the case and got inside when it absolutely was not necessary.

I'm pulling one from a 95 legacy as we speak. I would like 350 for it, but i have never shipped one before, and i can't imagine what the cost would be for the shipping being worth half as much as the trans.

Looks lik you jut got gungk sitting there from corroded coolant. What i am talking aobut with the ATF is it will lube the cylinders and help clean out the crud. This way you dont score the walls, and the rings have something to scrape with. Putting ATF in any cylinders is a good idea to turn over any block that has sat with no heads. You can use engine oil, but ATF is thinner and has detergents. ATF is wonderful stuff for clever applications.

So how much is a DOHC ej25 d worth? I have one with a blown HG, but runs. Then how much is it worth with a reseal":) In all reality i would save the block, and of course, go with a pair of our beloved ej22e heads for more compression, and non-interference reliability.

To remove the axle, drive out the roll pin with a 3/16" drift punch. look for dasco brand blue tool at the hardware store if oyu don't have one. You will see a dimpled hole, drive the pin out form that side. Inside the axle cup, there is a plug between the inside and the stub shaft on the trans. That is likely your leak, runninh up the stub shaft and slangin' out of the roll pin holes.

What you need is a mechanic that is fond of this car who will work on it because it will make him feel good to have preserved another one. Like me.

SJR is the popular choice for a bellhousing adapter and is probably the only manufacturer of them. Otherwise if you engineered one yourself, it will have to be 10mm thick, with the inside tracing the inside of the ea82 bellhousing and the outside tracing the outside of the ej22 bellhousing. between the ej/ea, the pilot shaft and the bottom bellhousing studs line up, and the adapter will have to make up the offset of the dowel pins and the top bolts. The sjr uses a stud that threads into the belhousing to the engine, and the trans bolts into the adapter plate. You will use an ea82 flywheel(your existing), but you have to drill out the holes to match the bolt pattern on the ej22 crank. SJR may offer a modified flywheel if you send in yours as a core. Supposedly the flywheel fits ina flat rate mailing box. From what i mentioned about the cam towers, if you look at the engine, you will see a seam whre the outer part of the head(the cam tower) bolts onto the head itself. You will see a few 12mm bolts around the outside just outside of the valve cover. On the bottom of this cam tower, there is an o-ring that seals the oil passage from the head to the cam tower which supplies oil to the cam. this video illustrates the cam towers:

Your car is retrofittable with parts up thru 99 legacy as far as struts, engine, or transmission, or suspension parts. I really love these first gen legacy. They seem to be built more tightly than the 95-99, especially with the interior. I would pay good money for a good example (not rusted out)

^^^ this requires a special socket, or you can modify a 19mm socket to make it shallow enough to get behind the cam to torque the bolts. You would have to remove the valve cover. Without a special or modified socket, you would have to remove the timing belts and cam towers, but this is a good chance to reseal the cam and the cam tower o-ring. And as scoobiedoobie would tell you, use a little bit of sealant on the oil ports below the cams on the tower where they meet the head.

It should plug in between the ign cyl harness. If you go under the dash, you can remove it and plug the key harness back into its original plug, entirely bypassing the unit. any of the other wires are most likely to be clamp connected to original wires near the fuse panel.

I am just guessing as it is a common code to appear with the check engine lite.

purge control solenoid

Clean it out best you can, with air, a towel, what have you. IF there is any remaining, lube the cylinder with ATF, and run the piston up and down, and wipe off anythng that sticks to the walls. Do this enough time to be satisfactory.

1. check you intake gaskets, as they can introduce coolant into the cylinders. 2.how much an ej22 costs will depend if you accumulate parts separately, or part off a whole donor car. a whole car(for the harness and all the little components) may be cheaper, then you need the bell housing. IF you can do it yourself, it can be cheap. If you are hiring the work for all the engineering and retrofitting, it would be cheaper to just go buy a legacy. I can't imagine what this pumpkin smell is unless you are smelling coolant out of the exhaust pipe (sweet smelling)

the 4 cylinders hold about 4.5 quarts

This is false. Dude has it right by his description. I see how you mean there, but one cam is loaded if you put them out of phase and install both simultaneously. The video/procedure has you do them one at a time so the am is not pre loaded and slip from spring tension. I would rule out the timing is wrong, but i would rule in the spark plug wires may be mixed. rotation is ocunterclockwise, 1-3-2-4 cylinder arrangement when looking at the motor from the front of the car: 3 4 1 2

It is suggested that google searching will pull results form the USMB easier than the forums search functions.

I doubt the engine is trashed, other than it has been molested by non soob familiar mechanics. The best thing to do is do all the cam, cank, and valve cover gaskets, as well as the intake gaskets. This engine is easy to work on, but can be confusing to a machanic that is not used to them. One example is someone removing allt he fuel rails on an intake piece by piece, not knowing the intake comes off as one whole asembly tied together with 6 bolts and an egr tube. How did you determone blowby problems? If it's il consumption, it may be PCV valve related. If it is bad compression, the maybe one of the timing belts is a notch off.

I usually dig them out with a pick and or a flat screwdriver. I have had some nasty overcooked oil hardened seals that you almost have to chisel out. This method may not be recommended in general, inless you are good enough to do it without scratching anything. I drive the seals in with a combination of axle sockets, and use deep sockets or socket extensions to sort of 'drift' the seals in place. I have once use an old throwout bearing to install the crank seal! (on an ea82) If you watch this video, you can see what i am talking about. This video was made more for fun, but it is about building an engine and doing all the seals. The middle of the video is a fast forward of an ej22 re-seal from 5:45

nstalling it with the bellhousing is similar to all the ej swap posts on here. You will want a crossmember from a turbo car, or cut out a space to allow for the up pilpe. There are examples, it has been done with many different engines.

The TB has a o-ring type gasket. You would be better off removing the alternator to get at the IACV