MilesFox

The button may be located near the hood latch pull.

We swapped a mix and match of steering rack with outback struts onto the trashwagon, causing a toe in with the alignment. The alignment shop fixed that. Being the struts were taller, the tie rods had to be adjusted out to make up the length. If they have not thought of this, it would be obvious on the rack. In our case, it was obvious to look at, but only noticed after driving. But it was more obvious having 215/70 tires, maybe not as much with stock tires.

The hill holder cable may need to be adjusted to allow for the clutch cable adjustment. The hill holder cable serves as a clutch return spring when functioning properly

I would say its a good price, considering the ej22 is rock solid and the mileage still leaves room for an other hunderd thou. The only other way to get an engine so cheap is offer scrap value for a whole car for its engine. maybe you can try to offer 250 or 225. How complete is the engine(harness, intake alt, etc) Personally, i would go as far as 300 if i was shopping myself for one. Those early 2.2's will begin to dry up and go up in value as they become more rare.

Dounds like front diff to me. I could imagine it is noisy if the fluid is low or gone, and has been that way for many miles. When was thelast time the car has been to a grease monkey? Hearing that the noise goes away or lessens when off load, and the higher pitch whine on decel sounds like no oil in the font diff. Go under the hood, and there is a 2nd shorter dipstick on the left side of the trans, near the speedo sensor, opposite side of the traditional ATF dipstick. This uses 80w90 gl-5 gear oil. Capacity is 1.3 qts. What you will find if it is dry is a stinky tarry mess on the dipstick! The wheels would have locked up if the diff overheated enough and seized. Getting bad enough, it could sheer teeth off the ring gear causing for some spectacular driving characteristics.

If the MC ran dry you maynneed to bench bleed it, which you can accomplish by removing a line form te MC itself and plugging it with your finger, letting fluid pass thru, but your finger stops it from sucking in air. Bleed from the LR, RF, RR, LF IT will help to depress the clutch cable (hill holder) when bleeding out the rear wheels

I HAD TO DEAL WITH A SEIZED AXLE IN A HUB. WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN 60 DOLLARS WORTH OF BRAKE PADS BECAME 300 DOLLARS WORHT OF JUNKYARD KNUCKLES AND AXLES

consider a 2.5 block and swap your heads and manifold to it. Otherwise, any 2.2 engine thru 98 will match the intake.

^^^ I just did all this to replace a brake line, and also dropped the gas tank. My subrame had rust scale and bubbles, but not rusted through. I used a chipping hammer to knock off the rust flakes, and painted the whole thing in ATF oil to seal it up. Not fun, but necessary (for the brake line)

Could be the water pump weep hole.

i had 195/60 15's which are about the same diameter as a 185-70 14. These wheels cover a 2 pot caliper. i have 205/60 15 with xt6 struts, real close to the spring perch, but a 205/70 is too large. I vote on 195/60 15's in place of the 185/70 14

it's all the same. the impreza and the lagacy share the same drivelines. the trans' will be compatible from 90-98 legacy and 93-98 impreza. the only difference is gear ratios, make sure it matches or swap the rear diff with the trans. the 2.2 and 2.5 motors will interchange between bolt-up and plug-in between those years. Suaru went AWD standard for 96, but you can find FWD trans from 90-95.

If the front diff was blown, the rear axle would get no power since the rear drive is driven by a take-off shaft from the front diff.

I get the idea, you want a subaru that is ugly enough that no one would cry if oyu took a sawzall to it and some spray paint. Roll-on rustoleum from the can does good for this. The rest will be raw creativity. I support the post apocalyptic idea

remove the airbox and the washer fluid jug to get at them easier.

Fill the coolant via the upper radiator hose to get coolant into the block before adding to the radiator. I just re-read all of this, and my prior post applies tot he ej22. So you should have the ej25d, use the updated gasket for it. As long as you didnt overheat it enough to stall or boil the ool, you will be fine. Go the extra step and slap on a pair of ej22e heads as un upgrade, the only caveat to that is you wil lhave to run higher octane fuel, but you will gain compression, power, and simpler timing components(more reliable)

I swear by 10w 30. I believe 5w30 is for climates consistently below freezing. 5w30 is thin in my opinion. I suppose you can swtih to 10w30 and see if that changes anything. Otherwise, the lifters are not difficult to change. good luck

If all fails, oil the bolt and run it in and out of the threads, wipe it off, and assemble.

Assuming your car is a 3rd gen body, i do know that the tailhousing and clutch basket design is different. It should bolt up, but i don't know if the TCU and harness is the same.

whack it with a mallet or a hammer with a block of wood. There would be a paper gasket for the unit. The o-ring is the back side with the 5 screws. Use a #3

You can do the work with a 3 lb hammer and a block of wood to remove and install the axle, and a drift punch to drive out the old bearings, and the axle socket to drive in the outer races of thenew ones, and when torquing the axle nut, it will seat the bearings.

How is the knock sensor> does it stumble under load or on hils?

my cars range from 18-20 in town, 22-and 24 on the highway across 300 miles, , both 4eat (94 legacy, 95 legacy) and my 93 FWD would do 26-27 on the highway with its taller gearing, but still the same 20 ish in town. I would average about 1225 mi between gas on the highway, but i couldn't trust the gauge as the car would run out before the yellow light came on. If the gauge itself is inaccurate, the yellow low fuel warning light would still come on independent of the gauge sweep itself. The yellow light reflects about 2 gallons left in the tank

I used a breaker bar to get it to turn, spray some wd40, paint on with a brush some ATF, and used an impact to spin the bolt, and put a flat bar between the head and the knuckle to lever it out as it's spinning. You will get a little tension from the swaybar, so you can iether undo the link, or jack up the whole rear of the car so the sway bar is not loaded by the one wheel supporting the car. If you don't have an impact, maybe a 1/2" dr drill can do the trick. Otherwise, use another bolt of the same diameter to drift you the longer bolt, and use the wrench to turn it now and again as you work it out. If it can turn freely with a socket, lever it out with a crowbar or long screwdriver.

From new pads, and a full reservoir, as the pads wear down, the fluid level dtops to make up for the volume in the piston as it moves outward. Low fluid with no leaks would be a sign that the pads are worn to the end of their service life. Inspect the pads, and replace them if necessary. Lubricate the boots and slide pins with silicone grease. If you compressed the pistons back in, the fluid level would probbly come back up to normal. It would be a good idea to bleed out the brake s of the old fluid as you service them. Check that the little float in the reservoir isn't stuck.