MilesFox

you will be fine, they should fit the same. make sure the pegs are lined up on the bottom.

Yes, the do fit. The 2 piece i believe was 1995 and may be 96

The car can be nice, but due to its age somewhere within 2500 seems more appropriate. for 5 stax you could get a mid to late 2000's model.

Try placing a block of wood in front of the engine to hold itback. you may want to remove the radiator as to not damage it. I resorted to shoving a nintendo gameboy between the steering pump the last time i pulled a trans instead of the motor. Or you could accomplish the same by placing a jack under the engine. put a board across the oil pan, or a vertical board under the crank pulley.

the ej22e has the dual port exhaust. 96 and later moved to a single port exhaust. the 95 has the dual port and egr to run in 96-98 cars that have an egr such as the ej25d, if anyone was using their original ej25d in car with 2.2 heads, or using a 2.2 car, keeping its original heads onto a 2.5 block. This applies to phase 1 engines 90-98

If you are going to the yard and pulling lifters, you may as well pull full heads(if you can afford them) as there would be a market for ej22e heads with egr, especially form 1995 to slap onto 2.5 blocks building frankenmotors. The whole head can be removed without removing the valve cover

The iac is the module on top of the thermostat housing with the large hose coming form it which goes under the '4wd turbo' plenum Try removing the hose and [lugging it by hand or pinching it down with a pair of nickels and a vise grip and see if this changes the idling

My rule is if the stud comes out with the nut, replace it, or if it stays, best leave it be. To install or remove a stud, double up 2 nuts and tighten themselves to eachother, and then nurn the nut closest to the base to remove, or the one closest to the end to install. use 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen the nuts to eachother. from what i have seen with hydraulic vs cable clutch, the throwout bearing is different, and the PP is different. on a cable clutch the TB clups onto the fork. On a hydro clutch, the tb snaps into the PP If it were a hydraulic clutch, you would remove a shaft from the side of the trans to disengage the throwout to separate the motor form the trans. My frame of rference comes from a first gen legacy turbo, which uses a hydro clutch

Does turning on the parking lamp swith on top of the steering column do anything? There is a realy in the rear quarter panel just behin the passenger side wheel well. You will have to remove the liner to the 'smugglers trunk' pockets behind the wheel ewell to get at it. I am not sure if this sist he specific relay, but i discovered one there chopping down a wagon

These engines dn't do the exteral head leaks, so anything you read about that does not apply to the ea82. But the ea82 has it's own bugs specific to it. Take care of the cooling system and the ea82 will take care of you.

IAC or purge control solenoid?

With my experience with ea82's the oil pressure will read near zero when the engine is at operating temp and at idle. It should move towards 40 when operating at highway speeds. What weight of oil are you using. I recommend 10-30. 5w is too thin and is bast for sub freezing climate. Check for leaks at the cam tower o-rings as this is one place that can lose oil pressure. The stock gauge is notoriously inaccurate. You will most likely get an actual reading using a manual pressure gauge, or even an aftermarket electric unit. The oil pan leaking will not lose oil pressure, although tou will lose volume of oil. Also, make sure the PCV valve is functioning, the hoses to it are not clogged, and that the oil cap is secure and not bouncing around. The ea82t requires the oil cap to be present and sealed for the pcv and air metering to work properly.

There is an ignitor module on the firewall dead center above the trans mount.

I just salvaged one from a 95 legacy. I would sell it for cheap once i figure out how shipping will work. I will have to remove the fuel from it first.

Remove the mechanical fan with a 22mm or 7/8" wrench to hold the shaft still, and unbolt the nuts with a 10mm. You can leave the electric fans on the radiator. Remove the lower hose form the water pump, and leave the upper hose with theengine. You can get it out form there.

I am wondering if the intake gasket leaking caused a cylinder to hydrolock, thus bending a rod.

The ECTS is the one with the brown plug on the back of the intake near the turbo. Remove the '4wd turbo' plenum for access. Check the timing belts as one may have jumped the tensioner. Troubles i ahve had with these is the car runs great on startup, and then runs crappy once at temp, and then wont want to start from hot until it has sat and cooled off. Also check the rotor in the disty and see if the set screw fell out

there will be gearing differences based on the tire/rim combo/model/year in regard to fuel economy. U-haul offers hitches of the receiver style that a hitch haul platfrom or bike rack will fit with. My opinion is the 95-99 would be the least problematic, depending on what you are looking for with model year or mileage. I don't have much experience with 200 and later, but i drove one today, felt familiar, but didn't like it as much. mainly the shift pattern with the automatic moving sideways in notches.

Too late as i was going to warn you about this. turn them slowly with even torqe as not to twist the bolt faster than it can unscrew. Do not bounce on the tool. Now that you know what it takes to snap a bolt, you won't do it again. Been there, done that.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141659-xt6-fwd-struts-on-closeout-at-rockauto-20pair/

If it has 118,000 miles, make sure the timiong belt has been done. if not, you are due for it. replace it now if it hasn't been done. A good subaru mechanic will be able to tell if anything has been apart yet or not. With the timong belt, have the water pump replaced. Fluch and replace the coolant to prevent head gasket trouble (due to corrosion, the coolant has anti corrosive chemicals that wear out and need to be changed) If you understand electrolysis, you get the idea.

1. a single digit code is an identity code 2. if the car did not start from a warm start, replace the engine temp sensor

It is a big allen key. I can't remember the size, but if i were guessing, i would say 8 or 10 mm. probably 8mm

The outer seal should be the same for all ea81 and ea82's

Look for rust on the head gaskets, or the layers delaminating, as this would be clue to lack of coolant service which corrodes the gaskets.