MilesFox

I agree, try burping the air pocket again. Fill by the upper hose, and remove the little bleeder screw on the opposite end of the rad to fill from the cap. If your cap is boogered, replace it with an oem unit. The cap is one variable that could be your problem. If it is not holding pressure, some of the coolant bmay be boiling over pushing coolant out, and then you get an air pocket.

We have this thing called the USDM. we don't get all the fun stuff. We don't get all the diesel variants. We don't get utes, or v8 RWD cars. We sold holdens as pontiacs, just recently, and not any more We only wished out ea82t came with 135 hp instead of 115.

The fans will run continuously if the engine temp sensor is unplugged or has an open circuit.

Speaking of newer cars i have always noticed chevy silverado or gmc truck 2000's model always seem to have a burnt out daytime runing light. This global economy of assembled in mexico from parts made in china.

The harness i have will include the ECU. Good luck with your project.

I would not bother with HG if the compression checks out. This engine uses the composite gaskets and is known to go well over 200,ooo and 300,000 mi on the original gaskets. All of the head bolts are exposed outside of the valve cover, so it is possible to do a re-torque (following procedure) if you feel it is necessary. Do replace all the timing belt idlers and a good quality water pump and oem only thermostat. Do the cam seals and front crank as preventative measuer, and remove the oil pump and loc-tite the screws on the back side of the rotor housing. Replace the oil separator baffle plate behind the flywheel with the updated metal one to prevent leaks. I will be salvaging a complete harness form a 95 legacy with AT and EGR. I may or may not keep it for a future project, but then again i would be willing to sell it if i never plan to use it, and if say you cannot source one right away. I still have yet to pull it form the donor.

IF you are used to german cars, you can throw out all of those 13 and 15mm sockets as you won't need them on a soob. Most of the car comes apart with 10, 12, and 14mm, and throw in a little 8mm, 17, and 19mm, and top it off with a 22mm (for the crank pulley) to do any work on the car.

You could source an engine harness from a 97 or so that had the single port exhaust and no egr. It will plug and play and you scould avoid an egr code. There is a way of using resistors to fool the ECU to believing there is an EGR solenoid present. This really only matters if you need to pass emissions, and your stripped down engine harness retains an check engine lite

You might find that the subaru is easier to work on, although it is odd compared to other standard automobiles. And then you will wonder why the other acars are built the way they are once you get dirty with a subaru.

I'll place my bets on the cam and or the disty being 180 out of phase form the power stroke for #1 cyl

There is a speedo sensor where a cable would be on the trans. It will be on the passenger side of the trans opposite the dipstick. See if it came unplugged or broke off.

The oil pump may be missing the check ball pressure relief. You should get 45 or so at upper rpms, and near zero when idling, when the horribly inaccurate oil pressure gauge is working normally with normal oil pressure.

One thing to consider with axle failure is that since we drive on the right side of the road, most right turns are much sharper than left turns when moving thru intersections in city driving, where the right axle seels more sharp angle than the left more often.

The chiltons book is in general. The ej22e was used in 90-96 legacy first and second gen. you can group them by 3 categories based on wiring harness and such. you would have the 90-91, then 92-94, same engine, different plug on the engine harness, both obd1. The 95-96 is obd2 (2nd gen) used the same engine with dual port exhaust. The heads changed to a roller rocker cam in the 2nd gen. There were changes fom late 96 and in 97 with internals regarding the piston skirts, and the heads went to a single port design, the engine became an interference design, but uses the same engine harness thru 99, and also with the ej25d DOHC which you will find in 97 outback, 98 forester, and 97(96?) legacy GT. The impreza shares the same engine thru 2000, the forester thru 99, but the 96.5 engines wer single port design. The ej25d shares the same dual exhaust port. In regards to literature specific to your engine, you want a service book that covers 90-99 legacy and impreza, covering 95-99 specifically for the wiring diagrams and engine electrical components. Clutches and flywheels all interchange with any ej engine, so any info regarding bellhousings and clutches to install in your particular non-subaru would apply to any ej series engine

have you removed any of the spark plug wires? have you disconnected the ground wire frm the water pipe to fender. there isalso another smaller ground wirte from teh water pipe to the disty harness. Are you getting fuel pressure?

Looks like an ej22e from a 2nd gen legacy. it would be the same as 95/96 legacy in the usa, and sould plug and play into any 2nd gen legacy with a MAF in place of 2.2 and 2.5

With no title upon sale, try to offer around 300 bucks or so as that is what the car is worth roughly as scrap. How do you title a car with no title in KY? so many years old?

Inspect all the pulleys ans the bearings can fail, the belt can skip. Inspect the tensioner as if it is weak, it can cause the belt to skip.

It is possible that the cams can be correct, but the distributor is off 180 degress, if you have rotated anything while the belt was off. Following the timing belt procedure fro start to finish, from the beginning step of having the flywheel in the center, and the driver side cam pointing up, rotate the crank until you see the TDC mark. Then inspect the rotor position on the disty. It should be pointing towards the brake booster. If not, flip it around. Remove the disty to flip it, or remove the driver belt and start the belt rotations from the beginning, and then the ign timing will be correct when you install the 2nd belt. YOu will have to know the position of the rotor when doing this unless you remove the disty.

If you are referring to a VW platform, The ER27 would install with the same modifications as an ea82, sharing the same bellhousing and clutch dimensions.

Yes, you can retrofit an ej22 or ej25 from 90's model subarus and later. You will ahve to use a bellhousing adapter, or swap in a matching trans and hybrid the mounts and custo length the driveshaft. Dimensionally, later motor and trans fit in the body. Look in the "subaru retrofitting" forums

Check the tensioners as that may be why the belt came off. Maybe it was loose, and now it is tight that you reinstalled the belt. The cams should be 180 out of phase. PErhaps you are 180 off

The rear disc bracking plate bolts onto any ea81 and ea82 trailing arm the same. The rotors are the same, but the hub is different for 2wd and 4wd. The same rotor would bolt onto either hub. There are about 3 different styles of caliper depending on year and model, but they will all interchange with eachother for physical fit with the slide pins and caliper brackets to backing plate. Another option should you not find parts, is swapping on larger ea82 rear drum brake in place of ea81. Swap over the whole thing uncluding backing plate and drum. Once again, a 2wd and 4wd rear drum brake is the same with the exception of the drum itself where it fits onto the spindle or axle You can make it a step easier by swapping a whole ea82 trailing arm with brake directly in place of the ea81 trailing arm, if you drill out the mount holes and use the ea82 pivot bolt. (if you have a lack of sources for parts)

I towed an 88 dl wagon 85 miles on a towbar with an 86 brat with a tongue hitch. That was a bit much, not for the car itself, but for the driver. The vehicle in tow outweighed thebrat, so it was all driving skill makes it safe or unsafe. This would not be a task for a novice driver! But the brat is perfectly capable of towing 1500 lbs such as a teardrop camper, a u-haul 5x8 trailer, or a aluminum fishing boat. Upgrades can be made to the brakes if you retrofit ea82 bits. The dual range can be divorced and operated in 2wd if you disconnect some linkages. The 4wd and dual range are ganged together. The lo range can be operated independently if you disconnect it. Otherwise, you can tart out in 4wd lo on a perfectly straight road for 1st and 2nd gear and shif itno 2wd hi. I only recommend this if you understand how the 4wd works with subaru.

I changed the spark plugs and that cured it. The joke is the part i changed las should have been the part i changed first, saving me all that trouble. But the forester now has all of its original components to the intake. I am one the wiser now.