MilesFox

You will have to swap the whole harness, or cut it doe=wn and rn it standalone. the pinouts for the dash can be rearranged to work with the analog dash.YOu will have to remove the driver side fender to feed the harness through

My favorite color! Look nice. 1986 FTW

The belt should have about 1/4" deflection when you push on it. Inspect the inside of the belt for glazing(shiny). It might just be due for replacement from use and mileage.

The pigs i used to have that could have been sold got stolen out of my garage 2 years ago. I have a pair of front hubs if you want to go the re-drill (the hubs) route. My dude has a peugeot 505 sw8 wagon that is shagged;he's on the fence about fixing it or junking it. I told him the wheels are worth keepong for subarus, so if he junks it, i'll try to get onto them.

Ha, I see your rusty head lights! She will look much better with the clearer ones. I like the brown color 569 Crest Brown Metallic, same as my 86 3door. That is a pretty clean ride fro something you would find in Indiana. Ironically, I found my 86 3-door in my hometown of Fort Wayne, IN, after i had moved here to wisconsin. IT is one of the cleaner ea82's i have ever head, but yours is much better orginal. Ae you keeping the wagon wheels? If you paint them, paint them white as that would have been their original color with chrome trim rings and center caps. I got a set of center caps for an ea81 brat that i was hoping to use with 14 legacy steelies (mine is 5 lug) to keep with that 85/86 original liik. If they don't fit on my car, they would look good on yours.

I would suggest adjusting the alternator/ps belt. It will stretch over time ans squeal, especially when cold start u, and subside after warm up. IF too tight, you may get a rhythmic chirping sound. There is an adjust ment bolt for the pulley, but DON"T FORGET to loosen the 12mm nut on the center of the pulley so that it can ride up and down. otherwise you will break the adjuster!!

Shmaus' frankenmotor uses the ej22e belt with ej22e heads. I got a whole timing belt and cam seals in a box as leftovers. If you want it, let me know. I do not have pulleys, though. snag it up for whatever it is worff to you.

Welcome! You find the right place for subaru maintenance. There are some local groups on facebook. See you there! Do you have any service history with this car?

The axle nut requires some 145 lb torque as it is not a spindle bearing. The flat washer is a spring washer and should be installed with the convex side towards the nut tot hold torque. IF 145 lb doesnt draw the shaft through or hold the wheel tight, the bearing likely has failed (busted cage)

The switch on top of the steering column.

If your car is 88 or later the diagnostic plugs will be on the firewall near the wiper motor.

The rotors are the same. There are about 3 different calipers, but all fit the same. You should not have to replace the MC. The proportioning valve is located ahead of the gas tank on the rear seat roll pan near the fuel lines. I wouldn't bother with the proportioning valve unless you have brake balance issues. But you may as well snag it from the donor car just in case.

Some of the valence bolts may be 12mm depending on year. The rest are 10mm. Remove the bumper if you want to get the fenders off as it will be in the way. The bumper is held on by 17mm bolts, located under the battery tray and the charcoal can thru holes in the side of the frame rail.

Enough to sweat out moisture and allow penetrant lube to soak in

1. the fue pump for an SPFI would be adequate. If you have trouble purchasing new, you can use a ford f-150 dual tank aux external mount in-line fuel pump. for 50-100 bucks depending on where you shop. 2. check for coolant loss in these locations: the skinny hose that goes betwen the thermostat and the top of the block, the rubber hose coming from the turbo to the hard water pipe that comes from the driver side head, the cooling line from the turbo to the back of the manifold(remove the 4wd turbo plenum to access)the elbow hose on top of the water pump, 3. a bottom end block from a carb engine will work as a replacement, 8.5:1 compression vs turbo's 7.7:1. your 89 spare engine is likely SPFI with 9.5 compression The difference in compression is the pistons. You could possible swap pistons without splitting the case. I would doubt you eed to replace the bottom end as long as it was not starved for oil.

Clear the code, as un plugging the MAF would have tripped it and stored it. Use an obd2 scanner, or disconnect the battery to clear it.. Perhaps the connector was loose or corroded? Sometimes just wiggling a connector can slve problems. Get some electrical contact cleaner and some dielectric grease.

Maybe one of the door switches for the dome light is shorted to ground.

I had an 85 wagon that had a floppy steering column like the tilt mechanism was worn out. This was caused by an obese driver using the steering wheel to hoist themself in and out of the car.

We had a 98 forester do this, you had to feather the throttle to get it going, it would stall. We tried replacing the spark plugs at no avail. It turned out the be the MAF and it was cured replacing it with a junkyard unit. (ej25d DOHC)

Rust

Remove the upper hose from the radiator side and fill the block there. If it takes on coolant, you would have had an air pocket. This is what you would have wanted to do when you originally serviced the thermostat. How does your heater run. If it seems cool, that would be indicative of not enough volume of coolant.

I guess what i meant to say is the AWD on the dashboard is just part of the overall diagram in the non-lit parts same as the outline of the car display. I would bet on the exhaust header gaskets-to-head are leaking. I would recommend replacing the studs if they come out with the nut.

You don't have a 25 spline axle on a 23 spline shaft?

I spotted a fairly clean 93 legacy at a junkyard. I was wondering why it was there. Upon closer inspection, it had 358,000 mi on the odo.

You can install the cherry bomb immediately after the 2nd cat on the mid pipe and ditch the muffler with a straight pipe.