MilesFox

Is it a misfire or a stumble. I ended up swapping all of the components on mine to figure out the sparkplug wires were shot. It would only misfire under load, but idle fine, and cruise fine until adding more load. This triggered the check engine lite for cyl misfire, and would flash while actively misfiring.

Sorry if my comment seems so startling. But you would notice a bad ball joint if you attempted to swap axles.

You could add a can of octane boost. I frankenswapped my forester after it had a full tank, so i used octane boost to run it out. (for some reason i thought you were in australia, thinking your car was RHD)

You will have to run higher octane fuel. You can priobably get b on lower octane or middle octane, but the ECU will pull timing so it could be doggy under load. It's a common upgrade to get out of the issues associated with the ej25d

Consider ej22e heads (f you got them) SOHC for a little compression bump1990-95. You would have to use the ej22 intake but it matches the wiring harness.

Your clunk may be the ball joint. Yes, the axles are interchangeable side to side, but i doubt that wil accomplish anything. A worn ball joint can case the wheel to shimmy if bad enough and will rattle on bumps. If the ball joint fails, the wheel rips away pulling the axle out and cramming the tire into the fender sideways, leaving the car inoperable and damaged, if not crashed.

Piston slap won't squeak like that

I can attest to you that the crosshatches are most likely the original engine and wear. Crosshatches never wear out, and rebuilding a block is never necessary unless there is an obvious bottom end knock, ehre it is more economical to source a used block instead of a rebuild. You can get 400,000 miles out of that block if you take care of it, which it look like you are on the road towards! Keep us updated as i love stories of cars rescued from junk to live on for many years and miles. side note- That timing belt tensioner can be converted to one style or the other simply by switching the bracket that it mounts to.

You may have experienced the rare occasion, but known to happen, of an oil pump failure due to the screwd backing out and compromising the inner seal. Please remove the oil pump and inspect for this. This is also preventable any thie the oil pump is removed, you can loc-tite- the screws to prevent this. This is a reare occirrence, but it does happen, and it really is the only thing that can happen detrimentally to the bottom end.

Ususlly with a subaru and excessive oil use is related tot he PCV ststem. The PCV valve and its hoses are part of a crankcase vent on theback of the engine, with a portion of the block acting as a catch can behind the flywheel. There is what is called an oil separator plate, pr baffle plate, that is usually a cause for a leak. But if it gets gummed up with carboned oil, it can cause oil to be ingested thrut the PCV ststem Subaru shold have know n this. Inspecting or repairing this part requires pulling the engine to service a stamped piece ov metal held on my 7 screws. at the mileage you have, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the servince done along with engine selas. Once again, the subaru dealer should have thought of this. Take it back and suggest this and see if they will get warranty pay the same as doing servince that is not necessary.

The ej22e eis the engine you want from 90-95/96 legacy and impreza. There is an interference version of the same engine (single port exhaust thru 99 legacy l model, and 97-99 impreza. These engines use the composite head gaskets which are not prone to the same failures as the later milti layer steel gaskets in the ej25d and phase 2 ej22 and 25. The 98 foreter came with the ej25d, as well as the 96 and up legacy gt, and legacy outback. the exception to this is the 95 legacy outback which was the l model with 15 inch alloy wheels, projector fogs, and the 2 tone decals(no side cladding) with outback being a trim level before the lifted struts and the body cladding. You may be lucky and find an upper trim legacy that has already been swapped with ej22 as it will plug and play into the harness thru 99. There is a stamping on top of the engine block that will have a box with the letters ej22 or ej25 for the engine size. Look under the alternator to find it on the front edge of the engien just to the left of it. You should see it looking between the alternator and the steering pump.

Your engine should still use the old composite HG's that were not prone to the same failures. Your engine must have been overheated from low coolant to begin with, and now it is pushing out coolant. Replacing the HG's would be a permanent fix. The HG part for this engine is the same as it would have been. The updated gaskets apply tothe MLS gaskets used in ej25d and phase 2 engines.

Do you tow all the time, or just want to know what the car is capable of for now and again? I would say 1500-2500 lbs based on yur experience. You could tow more, you could tow less. What the car is rated for is how well it will hold the road more so than the physical attachment of the hitch and ball. A trailer is not going to break off the hitch, but it can push you around if it is not weighted or balanced properly. This is where driver experience comes in if it gets to that point.

I'm sure you have found the 'ea82 timing belt procedure' by. now. If not, search it and knowledge will be yours. Don't forget about the videos as well. Good luck

transmission mount. squeeze some 3M windo-weld urethane from a caulk tube in the bbushigns to beef them up. They probably have separated. Let the product cure for 24hrs before driving or it will squeeze out. ...if you cannot find oem replacements

I have never rebuilt a driveshaft but i can lend what i know: Toyota u-joints will work. The ujoints are contained to the rear half of the shaft, and the carrier is contained to the front. I once had a shop rebuild my toyota camper shaft, which was 2 pieces and 3 joints, for about 400 bucks including parts and labor. From what i understand there is a tool to ream out the stake, and then a circlip is used to replace it I once gave away an ea82 driveshaft to a certain individial with a cetain xt, and when i got hte car from him, i inherited my old driveshadt with GREASE ZERKS! yes, someone installed greaseable u-joints in an ea82 shaft. BTW i got your message and the driveshaft i have is in great shape.

The TCU is located on the a pillar(door hinge) behind and to the right of the glove box.

Distributor shouldbe set at 20 deg,. maybe youa re running out of timing advance being 10 deg higher than normal.

Wheel bearings for sure. Wiggling the tires doesn't always show results with bad wheel bearings since thay are ball bearings and there are 2 sets of races the axle rides against. There is an inner and an outer bearing, and depending on whic one fails will change the dynamic of noise or slop you will feel in the wheel.

check the timing and the rotor, go form there. it may be the ign control module if the rpms max out at any load if FI or the pickup in the didty for carb.

Yhet do bolt up, so if you want to swap a manual you will need along withthe trans: manual transmission crossmember front driveshaft(the rear portion is the same with automatic) matching rear end diff depending on gear. pedal box assembly hydwaulic or cable clutch linkage depending on donor trans you will need the flywheel and the crankshaft bolts that go with it. a forester manual trans will have a 4.444 gear as well. the forester with the automatic (should be a 4.44) as well

You will have to adjust out your tie rod ends possibly to compensate. I have used forester struts on the legacy spring, the rear forester strut has more travel than the legacy spring, so forester would be better. Mechanically, the forester and the legacy use the same drivetrain an suspension.

Service the IAC if it could be carboned or stuck closed. Also, replace the engine temp sensor as if it is failed, the IAC may think the car is warm on a cold start. Oh, hey, i just saw you are in Milwaukee. Count on me if oyu need someone to look at your car for an opinion. do you know if anyone else has messed around with the throttle body? It is possible you could have a MAF problem depending on the symptoms. If what i am thinking your car has an ej25d DOHC, you can trim the IAC by loosening the screws and clocking it one way or the other to manipulate the idle. If the screws are rusty, use a good #2 phillips bit and driver or use a flat jaw vice grip if they strip out.

The video did not load for me, but being familiar with brat/ea81, if it is hydraulic, then it may be ticking from sitting, or it needs an oil pump re-seal. Otherwise, adjust the valves and do whatever the scheduled maintenance is for the mileage. Nothing is being ruined or nothing would be ruined. Use it to drive down the price, but don't let it scare you about getting into it. Doing the oil pump seal is stupid easy.

It could be the joint in the tilt mechanism, inside the steering column.