Hondasucks

if you get one with OnStar, or if you find a wrecked GM car wiht OnStar, there is an article on http://www.hackaday.com on how to wire into the chip and put it in NMEA mode (basically lets you access the GPS info that's built into the OnStar box)

even if his insurance won't pay, you can sue his rump roast since it was 100% his fault (or at least, more than 50% his fault..) and I'm pretty sure with 3 witnesses you could prove it in small claims court.

The shock in the picture is the correct one. Any 4WD subaru rear shock, 80-84 (with the exception of the 80 and 81 brat) will fit. The top of the shock is the part with the flat bracket with a hole on each side of the shock, and the bottom is the part with the single hole going through the end of the shock itself. (Top would be the side of the shock on the right hand side of the picture.)

I'm sure I'm going to leave someone out but here it goes Bajavwnsoobnut Flowmastered87GL Mudrat79 SubaruJunkie Subaru Styles Bratwerst Blownbimer MaximumBRAT Caboobaroo (duh!) Dr. RX (Back when he was Lewy80DL!) Qman EZap (When he was Chairotsu) Syrinx Luvmybrat Sweet82 BlueSoob LaurelTheQueen OZified/PKDavis McBrat (when he was MtnGirz82 or whatever he was @ WCSS3) ShawnW Edrach SubieGal NV Zeno Subarutex Honda's 86 Brat Ratty2Austin Wrench Princess GLCraigGT Richierich I know there are more but I can't think of 'em at the moment!

What's wrong with VW Rabbits?

yeah my 91 LS was 4S4 blah blah blah for the VIN, indicating it was made here

check the heat sheilds on the turbo, I worked on an 86 GL-10 Turbowagon that had a funky rattle, it turned out one of the heat sheilds was cracked and rattling. Couple of minutes with my MIG welder fixed that

where did you write to get the production numbers?

I'm not 100% sure on this but those sending units SHOULD be pipe thread, the question is whether they are BPT or NPT (The fitting for the oil pressure gauge on my Datsun wsa 1/8 BPT which was almost but not quite 1/8 NPT..)

This happened on my Honda when I got it, why it wouldnt;' run for the guy who gave it to me. Turned out that it was the tensioner, and the tensioner itself wasnt' bad, just it wasn't installed correctly. There is a pin on one side of the tensioner that it pivots on, and on the other side is a spring that sets the tension, and a bolt to tighten it down. Previous person who did a T belt didn't get it on the pin, so it lost tension. So yeah, check the tensioner :-P

Live in Vancouver, work and shop in Portland. -You can pump your own gas - no state income tax - low property taxes - no sales tax if ya buy in Oregon - No sales tax in Washington if you haev an Oregon ID, on anything but like, fast food basically it's all the good things about Oregon, but w.out the gas pump morons and income tax :-P

I live in Albany, I'm here in Wyoming going to school.

Count me in, I'll be down in the T wagon unless the weather sucks, then it'll be the truck (but hey, the truck has a nice big Subaru sticker on the back)

Most of the dumb rump roast Oregonians are former smart-rump roast Californians. Salem is nice, 80-90 in the summer, and typically not much colder than 40 in the winter except for maybe a few weeks.

I don't know what a subaru one draws, the one in my truck draws 1800 watts! The owners manual says it's recommended below 40 degrees, and required below 0, although I have managed to start the truck below zero before, takes a few cycles of the manifold grid heater though. And as for fuel inj. vs. carb on cold starts, one year it was really cold up in Centennial, which is about 30 miles from here, and my instructor had two fuel injected vehicles (A GMC Suburban and an Escort) and neither one would start, but his wifes 72 Suburban fired right up)

Just cuz they are new doesn't mean rule them out :-P I put a cheap $12 ROL head gasket on my Datsun trucklet once instead of the $16 Fel Pro, yeah, that darn thing blew wide open with the needle at like, the high end of the "normal" zone.... I'm gonna be down there Wednesday, if you;'re still having issues, maybe Caboobaroo and I will come have a look see :-P Check the little itty bitty hoses under the intake, those like to blow and spew coolant everywhere (happened to me once), easiest way to find a coolant leak, is either a) Let the car warm up to operating temp, with the cap ON, and look for leaks once it's pressurized, or pressurize it with the engine cold with a pressure tester (You should be able to borrow one from most auto parts stores), sounds to me like if you do have a leak, it's a slow one. The leak I had did not present itself unless the car was hot, when it was cold, the water wouldn't come out the hole in the hose.

I'd also try the O2 sensor, since if the 02 is bad or giving erroneous readings, the computer will substitute a value, and err on the side of rich, which would result in high CO readings. I am SO glad I don't live in CA! Granted we have smog in Oregon, but just in like two counties, and they arent' NAZIS like they are in CA... :-P

WElcome to the board! I'm not too far from ya, and there are plenty of Denver people on here too :-)

The STOCK transmission wasnt' strong enough although there are parts available from transtar to make 'em last longer. If I were you though I'd go STi six speed

cuz you're in California? and California SUCKS? darn smog nazis...

it came offa like 88 or 89 XT FWD 5 spd non turbo :-( *wishes there was another one in the yard* dammit I need one too! lol

The stock linkage works, that's what I have on my Weber on my 4x4 back home. As for the water choke, I had mine hooked up, but then I got a different Weber (28/32) that had a mechanical enrichment device (I dunno how it works but it's not a "choke") so I didnt' need it anymore, but when I had it hooked up, I just plumbed it through one of the heater core lines.

is this like, an off road run? Maybe I should bring the Dodge... Fark, no wallet = no credit card.... grrrrrrr

I had a brain storm while reading this. Probably not but could be a possibility. It's been real cold lately, and I know metal shrinks when it gets cold... Could it just be all tightened up and since there is no oil in there it's too stuck to turn by hand?

There is a Subaru repair shop down there (Soobaroo Specialties) but I've heard a few bad things from him, another good mechanic down there is John Bloom, I dont' have his number handy but he's Mudrat79 on here, and his email is mudrat79@hotmail.com. You said the radiator felt cool? It's probably clogged, I'm not sure what a NEW radiator would cost, but they usually run ~40-60 from a junkyard, and there are several good ones in Eugene, Pick a Part and B&R Auto Salvage are both offa 99, good yards. I can help you in about a month, I'm from Albany, I'm just here in Wyoming going to school, but I'll be home for Christmas, I could slap a new radiator in it for ya if you dont' find anyone else by then. COULD also be a stuck thermostat, I'd try replacing that first (if you get a Haynes manual for the car and a small set of metric tools, you could replace it, it's not hard) and see if the problem goes away, won't hurt anything to replace it and I think a thermostat is all of about 12 bucks. (I'd go with an OEM one from the dealer..)