4x4_Welder

As far as timing marks, unless you have an EA82 flywheel, there should be a set of lines, one marked 0º on the flywheel. If you want, I'll show you that on my hatch when you come over.

IIRC, the 460 wasn't put in the 4x4 trucks until 83 or 84. The 351m/400 use a big block bellhousing, and are considerably larger than a small block. Being a 78, it's either a 300-6, or a 351m/400. Broncos from the 78-79 model years were only available with the 351m or 400.

Sounds like a nice trade. I was looking for one of those bodystyle trucks a few years back, but in an F150 since I wanted a conventional crossover steering system and coils up front. I got a 72 instead........ I am on FTE as well, actually I am the moderator in the garage and workshop forum. The support there is second to none, tons of people helping and giving advice.

Yes. I am known for my clarity

You'll hate me, but......... Are you 100% positive that one of the intake manifold washers fidn't go down one of the intake or spark plug holes?

I'd put money on it being the pivot bushing. The best treatment is to pull the accelerator pedal off, disconnect the brake pushrod and clutch cable, remove the pedal assembly, then disassemble and grease the pivot rod.

$80 for fronts, $120 for rears, plus core.

Doesn't matter, with the nose up on a dolly, the rear bearings will be bathed in oil (also handy for finding a leaking output seal).

If you're coming up here, what's the chance of you bringing a Brumby tailgate badge? I'd love to really make people think with a de-hatched Hatch (since I can't sell it).

IIRC, there is a core plug in the outer side of the head, that would dump water into the oil. That's about the only way I can think water could pour out of the PCV holes, a head gasket -most likely- wouldn't do this unless there was some other damage.

If all the clearances are to spec, then try dumping the 20/50 and put in some 10/30 oil. The difference in thickness just may make a difference in oil pressure.

+1 for pulling the engine. Don't even need to put the car on stands (unless you have an uber-redneck all terrain engine hoist like mine).

it may have gotten snow into the distributor, shorting it out.

I had to pull the stub, clamp the cup (minus joint and shaft) in a bench vise, and beat the stub out with a 5lb sledge and large drift. If you're changing the bearings, this is probably a good option to go with.

I'm working on a custom intake for a single Holley 2bbl pattern, using a Motorcraft 2150 carb at 285cfm. They produced those carbs from 220cfm up to 450cfm, and I have a few to choose from. A custom intake will be needed, though, since the carb is rotated 90º. The Weber and stock Hitachi are vacuum secondary carbs, while the Motorcraft, Holley, and Demon are straight 2BBL carbs, with both throttle blades opening at the same time.

Ok, so from 94 on, the Justy was a Suzuki. But, was it beforehand, or straight Subaru? Japanese manufacturers shared so many components through the late 90's, I would have to take a look at the two engines side by side to see if they are different. I do know that there was a 3cyl turbo version of the Suzuki Swift, 1.0l, but even with the turbo it was slow. The only way I have seen that engine move quick was in a go-cart.

Hang on- your dash lights are on- all the warning lights, or just a few? Also, does the voltage regulator whine or buzz at lower rpms?

Ok, it's an electrical feedback. Check the fuses, and also if the fan has been wired in to bypass the temp switch, make sure it's off an accessory fuse.

Is it running normally, or chugging/knocking, what rpm is it idleing at, any lights on when you shut the key off????

I was more refering to AWD in general, not only the Subarus. The center VLSD helps, but if you have one tire on ice/sand/snow, and the other three on pavement, it will spin a little before that clutch engages to send power to the other wheels.

Probably sometime after people stop saying they are the same/similar. I know I had read that on here, so don't just rip me for it-

A differential will always send power to the wheel with the least resistance, the least traction. If the traction is equal, then both tires will give power or spin, depending on the amount of traction available. This can also be affected by how many rpm it is trying to spin the tires at, and how quickly you let the clutch out (hence the different spinning in hi and low). Just be glad it isn't AWD without a diff lock- the one tire on the car with the least traction would spin then.........

Commonly reffered to as the Suzuki Swift Turbo.......... IIRC, there was also a Chevy Sprint that used the same engine.

How would an EA81 handle this same situation? I'm going to vote for the bottom two myself. Might try to build my own before too long, see what I can make it work. Maybe if you could find a reverse rotation water pump, put the t-stat on the water pump end, and run the coolant into the heads first, but it probably is more involved than that.

I used a 3/8"x14" extension with tape wrapped around it to line up the clutch disk on my Hatch-