4x4_Welder

If you ever think there might be a remote possibility that somebody somewhere down the line might have to pull the intake again, use anti-seize on the bolts. If you didn't break a bolt taking it off, you're extremely lucky.

Looks like a mix of oil, water, and excess slippage. Did you have any of the plugs or covers off the bellhousing? If you didn't replace them, I would expect more of the same before too long.

Is that a factory 4x4? I had an 84 Mazda B2000, same basic truck, and everything I found said Mazda didn't make a 4x4 until 86- Maybe it was just a Courier thing-

It's perfectly fine, ATF has very close shear properties to gear oil. I would switch to a synthetic gear lube. The dino stuff is just too thick, and there is a big step from 1st to 2nd.

I am eying an EA82 Wagon, d/r 5speed, with two blown engines. I am assuming bad heads, but I have a spare EA81 engine with approx. 0 miles on it. I know the engine would physically fit, but is there anything to know about installation, anything massivly different in the mountings, oil pan clearances, etc? BTW, I am eying doing this swap as a budget-gap holdover. If I had it my way, I'd be asking how to drop an EG33 in front of the d/r 5speed.

70psi would have me pretty worried, since it's hard to idle an engine with less than 90psi. The factory spec is around 150psi, I have had these engines run from ~120 to 175. The important part is balance, though, if you have three at 150 and one at 120, that's cause for concern. If they are all at 110 or so, start looking into a rebuild or rebuilding your engine, since they are pretty well done by that point.

Your odometer shows less miles than you actually travel, due to the larger diameter tires. To find your actual mileage, either map out distance, or calculate how much your is off by tire diameter.

Are you calculating mpg per the odometer, or actual mileage travelled per maps/ map services?

My car was having a no-start fit a couple weeks back, for the third or fourth time. While playing with the key from on to start, all of a sudden the wipers went. Most japanese vehicles have some strange feedbacks, like blow the fuse for the cigar lighter, and the horn blows really weak, and won't stop (my dad's nissan, when I found out a penny really dose fit in that hole.) Or a dieing alternator making random lights come on and th voltage regulator whine

Probably the intake gasket. Just follow the line of white crud, that'll lead back to the leak.

If it is splintered, make sure both valves are closed, and use a long blowgun to get all the pieces out. I use a piece of 1/4" brake tube on the end of my blowgun to get in there. Doesn't work so well on metal pieces, but should on wood-

I know I would have had the pic on my old HD, it's nowhere to be found now. I swear, the Crosslander 244x had U-joints up front, on a coil/ a-arm IFS system. It is doable, the CV is used for reduced vibration, but an outboard universal with either a double cardan cv or Rzeppa cv inner would be a pretty tough setup, with a slip-shaft for the travel. Either that, or set up the a-arms so that the axle length stays the same through the arc of travel, no slip, but you'll scrub your tires to death.

Oh, I understand that. Just commenting- BUT, if you were to go to a double a-arm/coil system, you could, if you used the proper knuckles and left room for the yokes.

That would be sweet, u-joints and a slip shaft. Might kill unsprung weight, but be beefy as hell. IIRC, Crosslander used u-joints and slip shafts on thier IFS system.

Well, if I would have known you were going to respond, I would have let you handle it........... I was just guessing, anyways

As far as I know, it has to be a hydro block to use hydro lifters, so there is enough oil flow there. The main advantage is no regular valve adjustments. IIRC, 83+ were hydro.

Then loosen the bolts holding the lower hinge, and scoot it in a half inch. You might find the area around the hinge rotted, I had a similar problem with a Trooper that I had to replace the door on to correct.

That'll take an FSM to figure out, I'm used to painting the gears and checking the pattern, checking the drag on the pinion, etc.

I would find an axle nut socket that fits it. One for a Dana 44 front axle would probably fit.

Stock looks aside, Brat and Hatch doors can fit a 5.25" Pioneer 3-way in the lower front corner with no fit issues. You do loose the driver's side map pocket, but I wouldn't cry over that. Who actually uses it when there's a tray on the passenger side?

Finally got the Hatch back on the road after it's brake and suspension upgrade, only to have a new problem: The brake fluid, parking brake, brake light, and battery warning lights all stay on most of the time. I replaced the voltage regulator because the lights would go out for a few seconds when you tapped the old one, now the new one buzzes when the lights are on at lower rpms. This wouldn't be such an issue, except that there is also no power to the choke and fuel pump when the lights are on. I've checked everything out, all the wiring seems to be intact, all the fuses are good, still there has to be something going on- I wired the fuel pump off an accessory fuse so I can get to work and back, the battery is charging. Anyobody have some insight on this, or should I continue with my original plan to rewire the car?

Was that Quilcene? I got my hatch stuck up there last year, with a couple friends- sagged-out torsion bars and three ~200lb guys in these cars doesn't leave a whole lot of room under the rear diff.

IIRC, isn't there an access panel over the tank so you can disconnect the lines? I know my 81 Hatch has one, and I'm fairly certain my 82 wagon had one as well.

Nah, I'm thinking a beat early Corolla (RWD) or maybe even a Chevette, something nobody would cry over if it died. The key would be to take the car, spray oil all over the engine, run it around to get some dirt stuck in it, Kick it, beat it with a hammer to make it ugly, but have it running pretty good. If it's ugly, they may ignore it. Maybe set it up to burn some oil too, run an injector line down the exhaust or something.....

It's to deflect road debris and help save the boots on the rear axles.