4x4_Welder

I know the earlier ones had many issues, like leaking sunroofs so bad you had to keep a bucket on the seat, the rear decklid would rattle internally due to glue not holding the framework to the skin, and I have seen a couple just randomly loose a taillight. I haven't looked at them because these cars don't interest me- they're a little sidewinder FWD, and they have a bowtie on them. I will agree, the PT is a horrible car. You can't drive down the highway with the windows open because the rapidly changing air pressure will cause a "booming" noise in the car. The rear brakes have continuous problems, and the ride isn't that great especially with the firm seats.

It looks like these are kits, there are references to sewing yourself.

I have a feeling this was solved somewhere in the last two years

We need a gravedigger smiley.

It's easy, you just need a York a/c compressor, a pressure switch from a compressor, and a high-temp line off the compressor head. Make sure to put a filter on the inlet as well. You will need to make a mount if it's gonig on a Subee though, since they never used a York compressor.

Pretty much the same method for any manual 4x4- Lock the hubs. It doesn't hurt to drive with the hubs locked, it may reduce the fuel mileage a bit, but should be done every now and then to keep the front end properly lubed. Step on the brakes, put the transmission in neutral (manual or auto, do not have in gear or park), and pull the lever to 4x4 high or low. Move the lever quickly, or you may hear a little gear grind. Put the truck back in gear, and go. On most 4x4 vehicles with manual hubs and a manual transfer case, you can shift on the move if you shift to neutral first. I have succesfully done this with most of my vehicles, especially my old F250. I would have it in and out of 4x4 all day at mud runs- put it in 4x4 to get through the ruts, then slip it back into 2wd to blast some donuts in an open field. Getting back out of 4x4 is about the opposite, but if the stick doesn't move easily out of 4x4, try allowing the vehicle to roll a little, or just move the steering wheel back and forth. This should help relieve driveline bind. With auto hubs, engaging is the same except for getting out and locking hubs, and disengaging is the same except for most you need to back up about ten feet or so to unlock the hubs.

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Both are pretty easy fixes. Toyota uses flanged, bolt-together pipes so you can change out bad sections with factory-style pipe from Checker, as long as the exhaust hasn't been butchered already. Get the seatbelts from one in the junkyard, it should just take a 17 or 21mm socket to pull them.

I would drive that in a heartbeat.

Let's see, the Hatch is now gone, so here's what's left: 70 Ford Galaxie 500, 351w auto, 2dr hardtop 69 F250, beat and rusted, 300-6 and auto, hauling rig that's ready for retirement as soon as it hauls the parts trucks home- not geared for the highway either 72 F100 4x4, currently no engine, looking for a 390 for it, getting a full restoration with many mods, like 6" lift, coils all the way around, D60 rear, D44HD high pinion front, Atlas II t-case, disk brakes, EFI, but keeping the NP435 four speed in it. 90 Jeep Cherokee Limited, all stock and the wife's car. I also have a 16x6.5' deck trailer, getting a 4' beavertail, new hitch, new tires, and registered so it'll actually be legal to use.

I can do it for $250 in labor, the kit's under $130 depending on who you get it from and what brand kit you get. I can look up the part numbers if you want to get the kit yourself.

Bring the tranny over, I just set up a new bench.

I saw an EA81 coupe at the St. Helens mudrun a few years back that had duals front and rear- I think there was one in Petersen's Off Road about five years ago also.

:banana::banana:POST COUNT!!!!:banana:

Does it have fuel pressure past the three seconds that the pump is on when you first turn the key on? I believe the computer controls the fuel pump after startup on that car, so it might be best to pull codes and see if it's shutting off the fuel itself or if there is a loose wire.

You should- I think there is a tiny hole in either the lifting eye or the pitch stopper mount.

It's just a matter of finding something that's compatible with the seals- beyond that, they're all 10w hydraulic oil. I have to wonder if AW46 or the like would be right- you can get more than a gallon of that stuff for $25.

You should have seen the 88 GL I started out with, then- Thought it was just a blown head gasket, pressure test sent bubbles everywhere. The heads were cracked stem-to-stem. Major overheat.

Rare, but dropped valves happen- This is the 390 from my 72. Valve snapped at almost 6500rpm, it overrevved when it broke a motor mount and pinned the throttle open. Also cracked the block so bad you can see daylight through it. I found the valve hed in the oil pan.

If there was smoke, check the exhaust ports- I bought an 88 GL Wagon, thought it was blown headgaskets, had the heads checked and it was cracked around the exhaust bowl area. It didn't misfire, just smoked bad.

Looks like the Galaxie will get paint sooner rather than later- Might even use that on the trucks if I can find colors I like.

The fuel pump controller was one of the faults, it had a leak in the windshield, dripping into it- The car has surprisingly little of value anymore, it's been pretty throroughly stripped. Jerry- I forgot, this thnig needs to be gone by Friday, I will pull the panels and have them here for you.

Yeah, that's the redneck going to the scrapyard package- Jerry, I'll be here in the AM on Saturday and Sunday, most likely, you are free to take whatever you want off the car. I can't make the show, I'm working 10hours until the 4th. Maybe after too. I'm about 45minutes from there, though, just up SR3.

If you have a timing advance knob on the gun, go ahead and set that at whatever you want the timing to be, and set it to the zero mark on the flywheel. Otherwise, set it to the 8BTDC, or you should be able to get away with 10º