4x4_Welder

Well, if you can get them to share, and you start seeing music, and feeling colors..... Oh wait, you mean Limited Slip Differential.

Wait till you pull the drain bolts in the head- you'll see where the coolant is hiding pretty quick.

Probably soemthing like my 82 DL wagon, 2wd 5speed overdrive, and 1BBL carb. Not too long on power, but got 35+ being beaten. Downside was, it had to be beaten to make it keep up with traffic.

Depends on if it actually is just a blown headgasket. If the gasket just went, and the car wasn't overheated, then you may be able to pull it off. If it was severely overheated until the head gasket blew, then the heads are probably toast, and the damage is done at that end. FWIW, if it's burning coolant and not misfiring, chances are it just has a cracked head or heads, and is dumping coolant into the exhaust side. As far as the lower end, bearings don't like coolant, and tend to pound themselves to death if coolant gets in there. If you must drive it home, plan on a new engine.

Good luck on that- Better idea would be to go get some of the smallest welding rod you can, much smaller than 3/32, and run it as low as you can. Even better, depending on the machine you use, use pulsed d/c, with a fairly low pulse width. IIRC, some of the higher-end Miller and Lincoln machines have this feature, I know my Dynasty does.

Feel like going to Port Orchard? It'll be stick welded, because that's what I am certified in and what I have the stuff at home to do. I don't understand why they won't touch it, it's not hard to make it secure.

The outlet pipe on my Hatch was crunched, so I took it off. It was pretty damn loud, and a bit throatier than the little honduh ricers you see running around. A bit OT, but I think I saw you the other day down in Belfair.

Are those rail wheels that you drilled out?

I can get custom braided SS hoses, I had posted about that before, but I wouldn't add flex lines where they weren't originally, aside from making the lines one piece from the body to the calipers. Even SS hoses wear over time, and can cause poor brake pedal feel, and eventually fail. I would go with the suggestions and make up regular steel lines. Not that hard, I make all my own lines for my trucks, don't even really need a bender if you are careful. You do need a high quality flaring kit, not the cheap junk at auto bone.

Where might I be able to get the coolant passage o-ring for an EA81, that's up in the top of the block? Is this a dealer only item, or should I just use RTV here?

Been spending a few hours over the cleaning tank with my "new" EA81, and have found it to have a strange beauty to the castings. Maybe it's the Simple Green fumes, but these things are nice inside. The intersection of smoothly sweeping curves with sharp machined surfaces, the way things are blended together. In the typical Japanese style, there is no more there than needed, rather efficiently made, and engineered with a real concern about the end result. I might take some pics of this thing, especially since I have never seen an EA81 this clean

I used a large nail, gripped it with vise grips, and pulled the pin. If the engine has to be re-ringed, you might as well split the case to clean all the gunk out. Plus, then you can replace the o ring for the coolant passage and not worry about that leaking.

A 70 Ford Galaxie hardtop. Lots of bark, and plenty of bite to back it up. Still haven't dared to max it out in second yet, I usually back down around 85-90.

Try driving a full size two door that's been massively lowered, is painted flat black with flames, and has a healthy 351 breathing through a pair of burnt out glaspacks. I get ricetards who pull up next to me in Tacoma, and make that trademark weedeater sound, then wonder when I just walk away from them. Kinda funny to see what really is a 37 year old luxury car walk all over a "race" car.

SPFI uses a constant fuel pressure, but multiport uses a varying pressure to keep a constant over intake pressure. If you want and accurate meter, use a vacuum gauge. Less vacuum means more air in the intake, more air needs more fuel- Other than that, just keep your foot out of it.

Finally, a Subaru with a worse windshield than mine! Nice Ford in that gallery, I have one of the same year, same color, just a 4x4 instead.

Yup, that was the same thing mine did after it sat for a couple weeks.

I should have taken pics of the first engine job I did on my 69- it only had 68,000 miles on it, but the previous owner would idle the engine for several hours while camping to provide power, after he had pulled the thermostat. There was a good deal of sludge in the bottom of the pan, and a heavy buildup in the head. The pistons had a thick coating of nasty buildup on them, and my biggest mistake was cleaning those- The bores were worn about .050" over, once the clean pistons were put back in (couldn't afford new engine, or new pistons), it had the worst pistons slap noise I have ever heard. It sounded like a diesel on the hgihway.

Simple green makes pistons shine....... Whoever winds up with my Hatch will have one extremely clean engine, inside and out.

Yeah, missing info. Pull the outer cups off the axles, and put those back in to hold the front wheel bearings together.

Yank axles, have fun. But watch the bushing that sits above the rear pinion- thos go out, and the driveshaft hits the underside of the car, making a really bad vibration. On my Hatch, it's been RWD since last February or so, I filled that bushing with RTV last November, and haven't had any problems since. It hasn't hurt the d/r 4speed at all, and I have been beating it. Side-stepping the clutch (in low range), at about 4k, get some wheel hop with bad shocks, but otherwise no problems so far. The diff has had some play to it, but that is to be expected- you need a bit of backlash to prevent the gears from chewing themselves up.

I have the same thing on my 81 Hatch, and it's either the switch or the fuel pump controller on mine. Not sure though. On mine, all the warning lights light up, and the power to the fuel pump is cut. The battery still charges, but the choke doesn't get power either, so it idles high. At lower rpms, the voltage regulator whines and buzzes. As a make it driveable fix, I ran power and ground wires to the fuel pump, off the fan fuse. It runs (or ran till I killed the engine), and went about 75 miles a day to and from work for two months straight. I am going to rewire it with a system that makes a bit more sense once the new engine is in.

About 70º+ seems to be ok, and the lower the moisture the better. If it is too cool, or the moisture is too high, the paint will dry powdery.

Take them down to bare metal, and use the 500º ceramic high temp paint. Make sure the wheels are warm, and the paint will look like powdercoating.

All diffs have spider gears. They are the little gears that transfer power to the axles. Power comes in from the ring and pinion, into the carrier, then to the cross pin, which goes through the spider gears. The spider gears engage the gears on the stub shafts, driving the axles. In the picture, the green gears are the spider gears.