4x4_Welder

Two points- Don't use bolts. Use studs with nuts and high temp locktite or locking washers. People tend to try and crank bolts in, but this will damage the head, making a crack from the hole into the push rod passage, possibly blowing a chunk loose into the engine. The torque spec is something like 12ft/lbs. Any tighter, and the threads will strip. A plugged cat will also cause the gaskets to blow. If you have blown gaskets often, or have to drop the exhaust on a regular basis, use some sort of insert to protect the threads in the heads.

You have a Fastenal right there in Elkins. They have the bolts you need. There is also North American Fastener Co in Bridgeport.

Those look kinda like old Isuzu or maybe Mazda wheels, like late 70s/early 80s.

It -should- be an Aisin tranny just like the one in my old Toy- Separate bell housing, aluminum front section, cast steel center bearing plate, and aluminum rear section. Stand the tranny on the bell housing end (you have to set it on a couple 2x4s to clear the input shaft), take the bolts out that hold the three pieces together, and separate the rear section off the center plate. Of course, that would have to be the only way to get in there to inspect the shift rails and forks anyways.

Any trades, anything you are looking for (like maybe a nice freshly resealed EA81 mated to a d/r 5speed?)

Have you posted the Datsun up? Does it run, what do you want for it?

That has got to be the ugliest thing I have ever seen. The truly sad part is that the guy probably thinks it's fast. I mean, I have had some ugly vehicles, but they had more character than anything else.

Yet another pair of vehicles that we cannot get in the wondrous States- If you want a diesel car, it's a Benz, or a VW. I have to wonder what it's like having a diesel option in nearly everything.

Can't take it to the scrappers here thanks to the new laws- they won't take burned copper, aluminum, steel, anything. I guess lawmakers thought it was too easy on the citizens to enforce the existing laws on theft, and instead added more laws that cost everybody money- Without a fancy stripping rig, you can only sell copper wire with insulation, if it's been burned they can't take it. That mean what was once #2 copper is now dirty copper and about half the price. Same with aluminum. It sucks, especially since I have about ten pounds of copper from an old car wiring harness and some chunks of welding cable that I now will have to figure out how to get rid of. Maybe I can use a press to stamp it into pennies or something........ (Kidding, I don't want any Feds coming after me!)

That's actually pretty cool- (Butch cool-dude voice on) Yeah, I drive a Justy, it has like 750hp. (voice off) Seriously, though, I'd drive it. Probably get myself arrested or killed, but I bet it would freak people out on the on-ramp......

No vented rotors for the EA81, but you could probably swap out hubs and knuckles from an XT or RX or something that would have four lugs still and vented rotors. Kinda hard to fit vents in something 1/2" thick-

Just don't hit the rim, or you will damage it.

GD is right on this. For even more fun, see what happens when you run the vacuum advance off the manifold vacuum- Not very easy to get the idle right, but much harder to stall, more torque off the line, and less pinging at higher throttle angles. Of course, mileage does take a hit then also.

If the shifter has lots of slop, and really vague feel- Pull the boot and insulator up the shifter, there should be a little rubber boot around the shifter on the tranny. Pull that up, and there is a little stamped steel piece that holds the shifter in place in the tranny. Push this down and turn 1/4turn ccw, then pull the shifter up and out of the tranny. If there is a white plastic ball on the end of the shifter, and the slots in the three rods line up, that's not your problem. Bear in mind, this may have a slightly different style shifter, so you may want to consult a manual.

If he beat on it, or slammed it into gear, or yanked it out of gear without using the clutch, chances are it has a broken shift fork or shift rail. The Aisin transmissions both Nissan and Toyota used were good for this, I had a five speed in a 94 3/4 ton 2wd that first broke a fork, then broke that same rail a few months later. Not too hard of a fix if you've had manual trannies apart before, both times I tore mine down on the porch of my apartment. Another thought is the plastic ball on the bottom of the shifter may be worn out, this bushing isolates the shifter so you don't hear the tranny as much. If this wears out, it is possible to get the tranny into two gears at once, or not fully engage gears.

Jack car up, sit on ground, kick the tire as hard as you can without knocking the car off the jack. Alternate between front and rear of the tire. If you have a sledgehammer, hit the inside of the TIRE -not the wheel- alternating between the front and rear.

Spend some time with your manual and figure out what is actually wrong with the car, have a mechanic friend look at it, or if all else fails take it to a garage. If the car is unsafe, it should not be driven, end of story. Breakdowns happen, you still have tomorrow to help sort the issue out.

That has got to be the most stupidly arrogant thing I have heard in a good long time. I'm glad that when you KILL somebody, your wife will have a million to give to the other grieving family.

Fuel filter or pump. The fuel bowl is holding enough to get you through first, partway through second, then it starts running out as you use more.

Did you ever notice those numbers on the side of the tire? The one that says PSI after it? Those correspond to the amount of air pressure the tire should have in it, and there are these handy gauges that also have the same numbers on them. Get a gauge, and fill the tires right. I can't tell you how many times I had customers come in with tires at 50psi+ complaining of a rough ride, or a vibration. Nine times out of ten, filling a tire like that will kill it, even a new tire. Usually they have ply seperation issues. If you have tire movement that can be measured in inches, you have a real problem and the car should not be on the road. Play in ball joints and wheel bearings is measured in thousandths of inches, usually .003"-.004" MAX.

Check the fuel pressure, and check the TPS with an analog voltmeter. If the needle is anything other than smooth and steady as the throttle is opened, replace the TPS. If the pump is on it's way out with reduced fuel pressure, you can get similar results. Another thing is the air bypass solenoid/idle air controller. If this is gummed up, it can cause similar issues as well. Dumb question, but is there a CEL, any codes, or other issues like low idle, poor mileage, etc?

$75 for the tranny, $50 for a flywheel, $130 for a clutch, maybe another $25-30 for the linkage and crossmember from a junkyard- Not overpriced at all, is it? Not to mention this is a known good tranny-

I have a known good d/r 5speed, EA82 flywheel, nearly new clutch, crossmember and linkage for $250. I will be making another run to Cle Elum in a few weeks, once I get a call that my next parts truck is ready.

Clear codes by disconnecting the battery for about five minutes, or go back to AZ and have them do it with the scanner. The lower O2s will be after the cat, sticking out of the side of the pipe right by the footwells. Were you getting a bank1 sensor1 or sensor2?

I would think that if CSK weren't related to PA in any way, their logo wouldn't be on the page, you wouldn't be able to look up CSK locations, and for sure PA wouldn't be linked as the parts lookup for the CSK sites. For a bit of S&G, take a look at www.schucks.com, let me know what address it redirects you to and what it says under the schucks name. FWIW, ANY discount parts supplier will match ANY advertised price, it's the cost of doing business. That's why they hire near-minimum wage counter jockeys fresh out of high school (with some exceptions). Better stores like Carquest and Parts Plus outlets tend to have very experienced counter personnel, usually retired mechanics in my experience, but they charge higher prices to make up for it. Watch out for Napa, their quality has tanked lately, but their prices are still up there.