4x4_Welder

Ah, I now understand what a spider intake is- Still, what a 20hp difference between that engine and the turbo?

The tagline could be something like "The only thing better than Chuck is a Subaru", or "Chuck says drive a Subaru". "You're messing with the wrong car brand", or maybe even Chuck with a slash across him, and "Subarus aren't even afraid of Chuck".

I've been thinking about this engine a bit, and I have to wonder how much of the power increase comes from the addition of boost, and how much is due to the heads being a much better design? If you were to run these heads on a 9.5:1+ engine, could you expect pretty close to the same power as the turbo engine?

I should have gone to a manual, except that just fixing what is there should have been faster and cheaper to fix than going to a manual. I even have a spare 3.9 rear differential I could have put in so it matched a non-turbo transmission. I prefer a manual, any time.

I always thought it was just me, but all of the Subarus I have had ate the passenger front wheel bearing. Is there any reason for this one to go like that?

Not having the switch on the passenger side door simplifies the wiring. It lets them get rid of the constant hot wire to power that switch.

Might want to put it in the for sale section-

Well, as an update, the thing is almost back together. I keep running into incorrect parts, though. The range of years I was given for compatible parts isn't right or the parts weren't what I was after. I know the new rear housing is newer, and the mounts are different. I was supposed to be able to just use the newer crossmember, but it wasn't lining up with the body bolt holes, so I made a new one. Also, I think the shifter cable is specific to this car. The case itself bolted up, though, and everything seems to be in order there. Oh yeah, this car was from Bellingham, somebody has to have seen this thing around before.

More like a roof ornament. Those things are like cows on stilts. I knew a guy who survived hitting one (rare), he only survived by laying down on the passenger side seat, the thing took the roof off his car.

Vans are cool, but they suck. I hate working on them. I did an engine swap on a late 80s E150 with an EFI 302, and it was probably the worst engine swap I have ever done, including front wheel drive. I flat out won't work on them for side jobs, they just are not worth the headache.

Any chance to inspect the PCV system yet? A pressurized crankcase will show a falsely high oil pressure reading, and will blow oil out from anywhere it can..............

I always thought the center alignment hub was too big for the smaller pattern rims.

Edrach's BRAT pricing and information resource- That should really help out those in the future.

How's your PCV system doing?

Best repair is to replace with standard struts and coils.

The vacuum advance solenoid was in the vacuum advance line and simply disabled the advance under certain conditions. If you have an ignitor on the coil, and a vacuum advance pot on the distributor, then it should be fine.

Any petroleum based product will thin with heat, and then be able to penetrate much further into tight spaces. This works great with heavy oils, but you have to be careful with some grease- If you get it too hot, the oils will separate from the soap base, leaving just an oil in the joint.

One of the cheapest tools in my collection, and one of the most useful. Here's a 6pc set, under $4: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93514 As far as heating/boiling in grease, I used to do this with my motorcycle chains. I'd boil the chain in 90wt. It stunk, but would last twice as long as just lubing it.

Whatever it stops breathing at really. I've had an EA81 past 7k, and the EA71 has a shorter stroke so theoretically it can rev much higher.

On my last one, I welded nuts onto the remains of the broken bolts, and that freed them up enough to twist out with a socket. I then drilled and tapped for a helicoil in the stock size (8x1.25 I think), and made sure to anti-seize the crap out of it putting it back together. Just make sure you properly seal the intake passages, or else you will have to pull the heads to get the little welding spatter balls out of the engine.

Nope, not me. I've only been here for a few months. As far as AWD, you'd be better off using a VW Synchro transaxle, and adapt whatever you to that for an engine. The Subaru can't have it's rotation direction changed.

That GR2 is only $35 at CSK/ Partsamerica.com. Did he price out a pair of shocks or something?

In WA, that's the most common car color. I didn't know my Courier was blue, my MPV was red, and my newest F250 was white. I thought all three were this nice moss green.

I said some, and implied when they were new. Yours doesn't seem to fall into that category.

Nothing between the 360 and EA82? What a ripoff. Some of those early models were pretty sweet looking.