4x4_Welder

On some it also drives the power steering pump.

Don't jump to conclusions. I know you swear up and down it's not the alternator, so you've made your mind up there. When you make up your mind on something, it makes you blind to what the problem really is. This video explains it better than I can:

Ok, repeat after me: I will not use heater hose for a turbo drain line.

It's not actually burning any oil, no smoke out of the tailpipe. It's running down one of the motor mounts, onto the crossmember, and being blown back onto the cat/downpipe when driving, making tons of smoke when I stop. The PCV system looks decent, but the left side oil seperator in the valve cover was plugged up pretty good. I ran the covers through a hot water parts washer, and that took care of the buildup. The right side was nice and clean, as was the center hose. I do need to repair the tube that runs behind the intake plenum, it was damaged when I was changing the rear throttle body line.

That was a huge pain in the rump roast to find it wasn't the problem. I went and changed the pan gasket, since the back of the block was really nice and clean with fresh oil, again not the problem. The oil is running down the right hand motor mount, onto the crossmember, and then on the exhaust. It's not just a little either, it's dumping oil at about a gallon in 100miles. It's a very fast drip off the crossmember, almost a stream. Tomorrow the turbo comes off.

I'd rather have no people screaming about my car being on fire.

If EA82s are good for one thing, it's incontinence. Just put on new timing belts and re-sealed the oil pump, fixing one oil leak. Get home, and the thing is still dumping oil on the exhaust smoking like crazy when I stop. Now the cam case seals are leaking. Great. Luckily the local dealer had the o-rings in stock, Schmucks had Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets in stock, so now I can take the timing belts back off and do it all again. Fun.

You don't have to take it fully apart, just loosen the bolts about 2turns, and rotate the housings. That saves a lot of potential for damaged vanes.

While you have the belts off, reseal the oil pump. I did this on mine, and got rid of a major oil leak and low oil pressure for about $30. It took me three hours to do mine, but that also included fixing another worn out coolant hose, and waiting about an hour for the parts washer to finish up.

Any code that kicks the CEL on will put the computer in open loop, so it will be running just a bit on the rich side.

Someone there probably wants your Enkies- They have a goop they use, it's kinda like black RTV but it gets painted on. Basically, take the tire off, wire wheel the bead areas, paint this stuff on, and put the tire on. At this point, you should take a moment to hope the person taking it apart next time is not you.

Try a Jag rear end. Most are LSD, and I think they are based off a D44. You can usually get the whole rear subframe for $100-$150, just watch what year it is- pre-93 will have the inboard mounted disks, 94+ has the brakes out at the wheels.

I don't think people will try and scam with that sticker. Honestly, if you can't figure out how to do a .5second check to verify it, you probably shouldn't be trying to install it yourself. It's not like a live axle where it takes effort to find out even if the axle is out, you just grab the stubs and twist in opposite directions.

A quick check on the alternator is to use a DMM, set to AC volts, and check the output of the alternator at the stud. If you read more than .3v AC, then replace the diodes. Very simple, and much cheaper than a new alternator. Usually they read .1vac or less, or 3vac. An alternator with a bad diode will still charge, I have one on my Courier right now. It'll also cook the battery, since it's feeding pulses of current in the wrong direction.

How did you hook up the XT6 alternator, and is the old voltage regulator still plugged in?

I got a parts truck once that I found a -luckily- dead nest in. It was behind the glovebox, and couldn't even be seen much less sprayed with the glovebox liner in place. It was only about the size of a football.

What, no more Sasquatch photos? Got a really heavy thunderstorm at work yesterday, but when I crested the butte on the way home I ran into 4" deep slush just out of nowhere. I'm glad I didn't ditch the snow tires yet. It was kinda interesting going through this stuff at about 35, all I could see to the sides was what the Hakkas were throwing about 10' in the air.

Yup, throttle body line. I replaced mine with 1/4" fuel hose. I can tell you for a fact that that is a pain to even find, since they are so buried and usually only leak under throttle. You might want to go to a shop and have them put some dye in the coolant so you can see the source.

Fel-Pro #MS90175

Check the rubber boot/tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body (or turbo if so equipped). There was a fitting on mine that was popped apart, before I found and fixed this my car would do the same thing, plus the warm idle was crap.

When I have had a car so equipped, I have used and loved the hill holder. Unfortunately, the last car I had with one was an 82 DL wagon. I think that was the only option the car was equipped with.

Of course, the turbo just dumps a ton of heat into the inlet airstream anyways, so not much gain. I'll intercool it once I'm moderately wealthy, or at least not on my rump roast broke.

The spider intake doesn't actually seem to have coolant flowing through it. It has a separate water manifold that sits behind the intake, and bolts to it at the ends by the heads.

It prevents the throttle body and blade from icing up in cold weather.

Frank B nailed it. The one on the right side split right at the lower clamp. That was probably the biggest pain of anything I have dealt with on this car so far, mostly due to low blood sugar and dehydration. That and all the plastic PCV lines breaking. The heater hoses are on the left, and are quite new, the radiator hoses are new, the upper turbo hose is new, and the lower ones looks fairly recently replaced. This throttle body hose seemed to be the last one left to blow.