4x4_Welder

Huh? Uneducated owner use the one recommended by AZ that you used? A t-stat generally opens when it is supposed to, or fails completely. I have never had one that opened at an off temperature. And 1/4 way up is dead on for an EA82T. Mine runs there too, that is (verified with non-contact pyrometer) 195-200º. IMO, they calibrated the gauge to sit there so fewer people would freak out over a higher temp.

I have that outer faceplate, so I just need the rear support? Well that's a lot better than I thought.

Manuals get a simple drain and fill- automatics get the flush. 75W90 is what the manual calls for. I personally don't have much of a preference, but Valvoline is typically good stuff. Every brand has to pass tests to be certified as gear oil, though, so it's all a wash in the end. I would take a good look at synthetic though, it's quite a bit thinner with higher protection. Makes for better mileage and much better shifts.

If that's the case then I'll just make something. I have sheet metal and a bender here.

Aren't the EJ AWD trans stubs the same as the EA turbo ones? Couldn't you just get a set of axles for a turbo brat, and be set? Or would you have to build a set with EA82T inners?

All the turbos are MPFI, unless it's a poor aftermarket conversion. You need the SPFI harness and computer.

I think so, if Subaru used a single DIN head unit. The Legacy I'm stripping out has a factory 1.5 DIN setup.

This has been brought up before, and again I'm going to have to mention my concern over boy flex. The bodies on these car flex quite a bit, especially on the older EA81s, and the crossmembers are solidly mounted to the body. The aluminum bellhousings of both the engine and transmission could very well crack and break if solid mounts are used. It's actually simpler to set these up with the isolation mounts, since it goes from several bolts and some funky angles and offsets to just a few bolts, and simple angles for the motor mounts.

I'm in the middle of the same thing. Easiest way is to get a blown EJ 4EAT, and put it's front housing on your trans. Just make sure it isn't the pump that's blown. Second option is to use an adapter plate like the manuals. Everything is dimensionally the same, all the same differences since there isn't a specific engine for auto vs manual, they're all the same.

I have a stereo to put in my wife's car, but no bracket. I'm guessing someone pulled an aftermarket unit and took the mount with it. Is this a factory or aftermarket piece? I haven't been able to find an aftermarket replacement, maybe I'm just calling it the wrong thing? It's the bracket that screws to the radio and the structure of the dash.

How long did it sit? I might just be rust on the rotors. I wouldn't worry if it goes away in the next couple days.

When the axle failed in my Hatch, it did the same thing- massive vibrations, pulling the steering wheel, etc. It was the outer CV joint, starting to seize up. I just pulled the front axles, left the cups bolted into the hubs of course, and ran it in 4wd as a rear wheel drive.

The GL-10 and other turbo models got the painted slat grille like the Loyale as well.

Sounds like a typical driveshaft imbalance. Those are usually caused by a failing universal or a weight might have gotten knocked off it. I would get under it and have a look, if the u-joints are showing any signs of being bad, pull the driveshaft and replace them, or take it to a shop and have it rebuilt.

Cam seal, cam case O-ring, and there is an o-ring around the base of the distributor. Could be a PCV leak as well. To find an oil leak like this, look for the clean spot in the middle of all the oily dirt.

What pugs did you get? I had a set of the 14" alloys on an EA81, and they sat flush with the fender, so I'd imagine they stick out about 1/2" to 3/4" on an EA82.

Eastern side of Moutain Home, actually. And my storage unit is on the western side of Jerome.

It was about the same, really. I was driving to Jerome anyways, and just had to go about 30miles more. Of course, my alternator died, and I pitched ANOTHER driveshaft out of my truck on the way back, so in the end the retrieval cost more. I think I overbuilt the new engine in the truck- three driveshafts and two differential yokes in six months. I upgraded this last time around, I'll just have to stop drag racing with a trailer.

Last time I checked, the rear axles had nothing to do with the wheels other that turning them. No holding on dust shields, keeping bearings together like the fronts, etc. Just knock the pins out and go. I think I remember reading somewhere that the EA82 FWD 5speed is the exact same as the EA81 unit, so parts should be available to just bolt it all up. I'm just afraid that the amount of work you're looking at isn't going to get you the gains you want. You might gain 1-2mpg on the highway, 2-3mpg in town, and .1seconds in the quarter mile, the MPG gains would be the same with some sort of form fitting tonneau cover on the bed.

That's funny, my EJ donor is a green 2wd 93, but I beat you on price- by $25. I had to go almost to Boise to get it, though.

Rear axles are pinned at both ends, so nothing special needs to be done, just pull them. IIRC, the EA81s had a one-piece driveshaft, so you'll need a plug or different transmission. For the life of me, though, I can't think of one good reason to do this. I can understand converting to RWD, I did that to my Hatch. But FWD? Especially in a Brat- That's a lot of work to take a step backwards.

I have no idea. I was watching Kingbobdole's dyno pulls, and that was one of the related videos. I've done similar with an EA81, it was about as much work as putting the cast iron 4BBL intake on my F250, they weighed about the same.

What's in it now, and what's not right about it? I was under the impression that aside from the 2nd hold vs 1st hold, the computers were all about the same.

Is it having trouble cranking, or actually catching and running? Either way could be battery cables, they may look fine but could be corroded where the cable meets the clamp.

The EA82 engine has a freeze plug in the head between the coolant passage and the open interior of the cam cover, if that pops out you get water in the oil. Last time I got heads checked, it was $40 for the pair, but that was in Connecticut also about ten years ago, in the smallest, dirtiest little hole in the wall of a shop you've ever seen. They did some of the best work I've ever seen, though.